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Thats exactly what I was thinking. I didnt change anything else other than having the convertor repaired by a competent company. A 1/4 inch off center is a bunch, especially at 5-6000 rpm!

I want to run a 2.?? gear in the rear, I have the low trans gear, the strokers pull hard enough out of the hole I dont think it would kill my ET's too bad. I would only be doing this for ease of driving on the highway.

You are right, 5500 is not that high. But it was doing its cracking way before that when stuff wasnt right.

Well, I put the low 1st in my car, and my 60ft got worse. ( I need better tires). The stroker just blows the tires off now. it is LOW! for a street car, I wouldnt ave done it if i knew what it was going to be like. It is a pain with the reverse manual valvebody. If your chassis can handle...

Well it wasnt a line bore issue, it was a poorly built convertor.

Finally my car is whole again!!! It has been a long three months now, funds were limited, but the trans is back in the car and performing flawlessly. The problem ended up that the hub on the convertor was welded off center by .20 or .28 thou. off center. (And no I didn’t feel any vibrations...

I ran a 904 behind my SB stroker for about 2 yrs. All I had done to the trans was rebuild it and add a kevlar band and a B&M shift kit. I was very heavy footed, from stops, on the highway, downshifting often, it took it all without a single complaint. Now the same 904 has a rmvb, deep pan billet...

Excellent point ^^^^ And true to the previous poster about convertor technology, I am running a 3500 stall 10 inch convertor on the street behind my small block stroker, and I love it. When in drive at a stoplight idling, it will try to pull the car forward slightly, nice and tight, and...

No run-on, or deiseling after shutoff. I have a spare 904 I can gut so that might make the job easier.

Well I sure will try tuesday!! I'll let yall know if its a failed attempt...

Driveshaft was cut down when the 8 3/4 went in and rebalanced, to what speed it was balanced I do not know though.

To get away from doing what you are saying, isn’t the end result the same this way: Magnetic base dial indicator magnetized to the crank / flex plate, convertor removed but trans reinstalled. Set the dial arm at a zero lash to trans input shaft, and rotate the crank by hand from the front of the...

1980 Model block, Eagle crank Trans is 70's or newer, I dont remember exactly, but its not the older one like you speak of.

Thank to all for the replies, this just confirms what I was allready thinking. Bohica, you make a good point, thanks. Ill have it tore apart in about a week and let you know what the measurments are...

And that is exactly what I was thinking! I have a few different kinds of magnetic base indicators I can use to get an accurate reading.

Flex plate is on correct, that I know for sure. It is an SFI Mopar Perf. Plate FYI. When putting the unit together, the convertor is pulled back toward the motor what, like 3/8 inch or so? So it isn’t pushing into the pump, unless it is flexing THAT much…What would be the point of...

I will be pulling the trans this weekend hopefully, can endplay be checked on an assembeld running motor without to much intrusion of the block??

I think I cracked the hub on my convertor again, this will be the second time I have done so. When I stand on the throttle, and bring the car up through the gears, it starts dumping trans fluid out of the bell housing. The car did this a few months ago, and cracked the hub on the convertor...

Wow, I know you have a stout combo, I have read all about it. Thats pretty cool the small yoke has survived, kinda makes me just want to put my money elswhere. Or at least get a nicer driveshaft.

Perfect answer, thank ya much sir!

That is some good info. I think I would feel all warm and safe with the 7290. About 110 bucks for the front or rear is what i'm finding. Thanks for the input!!!

I have heard the small yokes CAN live with slicks, but i'm tired of breaking something on the car once a month or so, although I am weeding out all the weak links!! And yes, an eliminator is in the budget when I do this.

Just 200 what??

Well we will squash the crush sleeve delema here: I will get a new one!! (I saw all the bickering on that topic) So two possible spline counts... I do not know the make of the gear inside... Would a 7290 yoke live with sticky tires? I dont know the capabilities of this yoke, my understanding...

I am currently running an 8 ¾ with a 489 case, 7260 yoke. I want to upgrade driveshaft and both yokes, when I get slicks for the first time on this car I fear snapping a drive or yoke. What is the spline count of a 489 setup? I do not know as i did not build the chunk, and have never had one...

I have never found them in a parts store. I broke mine a while back and resorted to a salvage piece, never again!! here ya go... http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/axlevent.html

I couldnt get my 8 3/4 to seal with two different gaskets, so I just ran a bead of ultra grey, it has been sealed leak free for about two years now...

I contacted the company (J&W performance) they had apoligized and said send it in on my dime, they will repair it for free and send me a check for the amount of the shipping. they said they dont have a UPS account for them to schedual a pickup from my house, which would eliminate and initial...

Well the problem ended up bein the convertor. The welds around the hub are leaking. I guess they didnt pressure test it before they sent it out. Kinda bummed I dont get to drive my car this weekend, there is a cool cruise in town this weekend... I would like to think the company will fix...

Did this tear up the hub of your convertor? I would imagine that "staking" the bushing would help to prevent this...