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Take a part that is the color that you want to a body shop supply house and have them scan it.I just matched this orange I shot a motorcycle with lacquer and poly urethane clear . It got damaged while in storage and I had it matched in single stage catalyzed acrylic enamel . It is a dead on...

These are early A body 65 or 66 .They are not for sale unless I find I have another set because I need them for my wagon resto. Take note of the clips that connect the linkage .Whatever you get has to be compatible with your set up

You mean the little teflon things that hold the linkages together? if so Dorman makes them and they are sold at most auto parts stores .I replaced mine in my 76 Aspen a couple times already.Really poor design , the earlier style clips used on my 65 valiants last forever , these things fail every...

Swirl mark remover sold at any automotive body supply house has worked for me

Is it the bumper that is deformed or the mounting stuff ? I'd remove it and have a good look around before I started banging or pulling on anything.

They are Valiant spears someone put on for the look

I would put a waterborn barrier primer on it before the lacquer

Real NICE !

You can pretty much tint anything but you need to be sure about the material compatibility .

I'm using the Barracuda grill in my 65 Valiant station wagon , Barracuda quarters as well(because no wagon ones are to be had) . There is better visibility of the signals with the Barracuda grill .

The grill is different ,the lower valance is different , the trunk is different , the rear window is different ,the quarter windows are different the rear seat is different . For clarity there are many differences between a 1965 Barracuda and a Valiant . They are built on the same platform like...

Back in the 70's guys used to go to the junk yard and get the factory mechanism and brackets to weld on to the other side .Having 2 helps the hinges .I have a spare with brackets for the 64-65 I'd part with .Those screen door closer types are real garbage.The mechanical ones are way better ...

I always kept mine and also kept any good ones I found in parts cars

yes

My 65 Valiant wagon did this and I just bent the rod that the outside button pushes so it would work again. They get bent more than worn . It was an easy no dollar fix

The reason body shop rust repairs don't work is that they don't treat the metal chemically .When I did my 65 Barracuda back in the early 90's I started with a pretty rusted set of quarters.There was no replacement parts back then so I needed to fix things myself.I cut out where I could and...

it should ,yes . I know the 65 Valiant doors are the same for Darts so I would think 63 is no different . You may even be able to use a 63 - 66 as long as it's the same body style

How bad is the area you are wanting to fix ? Photo ? I'd me more inclined to fix pin holes in a floor with epoxy and fiberglass cloth from the interior and shoot undercoat on the underside to seal it up after I brushed on some epoxy to stop any water from getting under the repair. You are never...

I'd use a helicoil so you can keep the same bolt size.

I used the stainless steel exhaust manifold brush on paint and it worked out real well.The trick is to sand or bead blast the manifolds and paint them as soon as you finish the blasting job before the moisture in the air starts rusting them. They stayed real nice for 10 years with just minor...

There is something on the surface if it's always in the same place. Perhaps you should sand it with 1000 grit paper real well,wipe it with naptha ,re prime it and wipe it again before you shoot the color coat . Sometimes it's a ***** like this.I used to get this when painting motorcycle gas...

Looks like some sort of contamination on the surface . They sell products you can add to the paint called fish eye reducer that may help but my money is on the surface just not being perfectly clean.Are you wiping it with a naptha based solvent to clean it before shooting? are you going over...

It's so much easier to paint it all at one time.You start you finish and that is the end of it. You limit your exposure to this toxic **** and your car comes out better with less work.

Wait and paint the entire car at one time .If you paint the bay first and put in a motor you run the risk of fogging it up when you shoot the car with the over spray.This happened to me once and I had to pull the motor to re shoot the bay and the motor because they became dull ,almost flat...

Some auto body supply business will mix colors to the codes and put it in spray bombs for you. Tower Paint used to advertise this back in the day . You'd be better off buying a small detail gun and spraying your own .Spray can paint never holds up like the real deal.

I'm going to try this place for the paint I do my 65 Valiant wagon with. Home Page

I painted my Barracuda like this and the engine and the bay got dull from the fine particles of paint in the air and I ended up pulling the motor ,repainting it and repainting the bay before putting the motor back together.

This is how I did the spare tire well in my 65 valiant wagon. The rear part of the frame was toast so when I remover the good well from the parts car I kept the frame on it and fitted it to the good part of the wagons frame .Did that close to 20 years ago and it is still solid as a rock .

Nothing for pre 67 A bodies at all

Don't use Muriatic acid ! If you get any on the chrome it will instantly ruin it .There is an acid you can use not as harsh.Phosphoric Acid .Truck supply places sell it as a truck wash for alum trailer bodies. Even with this milder acid you need to protect the chrome with something like a liquid...