Changing out trunk pan

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moparmat2000

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Eventually i will be changing out the trunk pan on my sons 69 cuda. Will be changing out rear seat/transition pan as well. Car was butchered with aluminum tubs as a drag car, will remove those and want to do a clean minitub w stock sheetmetal since the car actually has a nice spring relocation job already done to it. I have a rust free rear seat pan, and inner fenderwells, and trunk floor out of a 71 scamp. I planned on installing the rear seat pan first with the angle bracing that goes behind the seat to tie the frame together and give a place for jackstands to support it all.

My plan since i have new quarters, and will need a rear valance, trunk drop offs and outer wheel houses anyways would be to remove the old valance, remove the framerail cross tie bar behind it, drill out the spot welds and slide the old trunk pan out through the back.

I have never done this job before, but the way the metal overlaps i am thinking this is how i need to do this.

Anybody do this job like this before? I have a mind like a steel jawed trap, i wont forget this information even if i dont do this job until 5 years from now.

Thanks
Matt
 
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This is how I did the spare tire well in my 65 valiant wagon. The rear part of the frame was toast so when I remover the good well from the parts car I kept the frame on it and fitted it to the good part of the wagons frame .Did that close to 20 years ago and it is still solid as a rock .

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Thats really a good idea. Rails on this one are solid though so i wont splice.
I think I would R & R the transition piece that goes over the differential first. The leading edge of the trunk floor overlaps that piece. Try to remove the
crossmember last as that ties in the ends of the frame rails. If 1/4's are removed, It would probably be easier to weld and install the drop offs to the
trunk floor as a unit. I have several of the transition floors over the diff. I think that 63-76 pieces are essentially the same dimensions with some small
differences mostly in the pinion snubber area. I also think the diagonal braces are the same for all those years.
 
You didn't mention what body style you are working on. If a FB, you may not be able to replace it in one piece because the trunk opening is so small. I'm guessing the sequence on the factory line was the trunk floor was welded in before the upper structure, including quarters. However if the quarter(s) is off you should be able to get it in there.

Valiantwagon had the advantage of a big opening to work tbrough. I did front floors on my 69 but never a trunk floor.
 
69 barracuda coupe.

Will level out the car on 4 jackstands shimmed to dead level.

I planned on changing out the transition pan first. Car also needs main floor pan which is rusty and also butchered up, and trunk pan both of which overlap, so i planned on cutting those pieces back at the transition pans overlapping seams to install the replacement transition pan.

Once thats buttoned up, i was thinking of temporary tack welding a piece of 2"×2" thinwall tubing across the framerails ahead of the spare tire well to hold everything straight. Then cutting the seams at the trunk drop off side since they got to be replaced too, remove the valance, remove the framerail tie bar, and slide the old trunk floor out from the back.

Was going to predrill alignment holes next to spotwelds i have to remove in tiebar to framerails for draw clecos to use as alignment pins to reassemble the tiebar.
 
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Here’s where I’m at on my 70 duster fortunately everything but the pan was solid
 
Maybe it will fit into the trunk opening and i can push it forward, set rhe back end in place and it will set down in place.
 
I think I would R & R the transition piece that goes over the differential first. The leading edge of the trunk floor overlaps that piece. Try to remove the
crossmember last as that ties in the ends of the frame rails. If 1/4's are removed, It would probably be easier to weld and install the drop offs to the
trunk floor as a unit. I have several of the transition floors over the diff. I think that 63-76 pieces are essentially the same dimensions with some small
differences mostly in the pinion snubber area. I also think the diagonal braces are the same for all those years.
Yep. Plan was to R&R the transition pan first
 
I posted on your post about the trunk drops. You can buy most of the parts your looking for from AMD.
Find a dealer going to Carlisle and save on shipping cost.
 
Found some on evilbay $260 for the pair. Will prob get those and outer wheel houses as well.
 
Got outer wheel houses and trunk drops from AMD. Stripping down a rust free 71 halfascamp. Went in halvsies on it. Using its transition pan, trunk pan, and inner wheel houses. Buddy of mine, another fabo member got all the outer body sheetmetal. Roof, dutchman, quarters for his 72 scamp. Scamper as it sits now. Got a rust free spare tire well from another fabo member to fix the old scamper one.

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Damn. Old thread. I ended up changing whole trunk pan with a new repop. I sandblasted and epoxy primered the insides of the framerails before doing the sheetmetal work. Time consuming but worth it.

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