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Heres a pic of a typical turn switch (Sorry its from my phone). What I have seen, including this one, is the contacts get full of debris and do not make proper contact. You can try to spray it first as suggested. If its apart, may as well take it apart & make like new.

This is what I have found to usually be the culprit. Sometimes all it takes is to rapidly (carefully) move the signal arm back & forth, left side then right. It clears up the gunk. Otherwise, manual cleaning will be in order.

Any noise from the starter while the engine is running is bad. Double check the installation to be sure its centered and bolts are tight. Sounds like its just not disengaging. May have to replace it again. You can also try to bump the key a few time to see if frees up.

Sounds like the alternator may be on the way out. Check the belt tension first to be sure its not slipping. Test the alternator. With engine running, put a wrench or ? to the back of the alternator dead center. If its charging, there will be a magnetic pull.

When you take back the starter, have them bench test it(or do this yourself). Probably junk starters but you need to know for sure & before you put in another. I used a late 90's truck starter in my Dart. Good, cheap & mini.

Check for a short. Kinda sounds like the ballast resistor is overheating. When it cools down it starts then dies when it overheats(?).

I think this is correct :dontknow:

Also check to be sure there is a good connection at the battery post & cables.

There are two wires that attatch to the regulator. Most likely the ones shown. One is a "plug" type and the other is "spade" which is connected by a slotted screw on the reg. If I see correctly in the pic, the plug wire going into the reg., looks to be for brake warning light. Hope this makes sence.

Looks like the voltage regulator wires to me....?

With key on... ground out the wire which is attatched to the sending unit.

Post up a pic of the wires. Im sure someone will be able to help figure it out.

I would suggest putting electronic ignition back in. I see it still has the dual ballast. Does it still have the voltage regulator? If so you'de just need a new distributor & ECU. Just a thought. Looks like the PO has done some major hacking & bypassing in attempt to hook up the points system...

Are you using the five pin ECU with the dual ballast? Dual ballast have different ohm ratings top/bottom. Check the ohms as stated above. Should be around .5 on one side & 5.0 on the other. Be sure the positive coil is wired up top(.5ohm) Double check all wiring. Single ballast ohm rating will...

In route via USPS

This work for you? http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73DartA.jpg

I've got a core I can pull it from. Send me your address.

Double check the splice into the ballast wire to be sure your into the correct one.

I would suggest at this point you get it all wired correct. Each part of the system can then be trouble shooted individually. No toggles or painless. Follow the link diagram is is at the bottom. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/elecignconv.pdf

Crappy plug drawing

Check plug cavities 1, 2 & 3 with key on. Each one should be around 12 volts.

I would wire (rewire) the ballast for the 4 pin. Also, are you getting "key on" voltage at the ballast?

If you had your column apart and reassembled it-the wires running down may have been pinched and cause a short.