‘73 stuff on a ‘68-‘72 K

[Stranglehold]

69 dart swinger 340 is the vehicle. Using a 68-72 K frame with ‘73 UCAs, LCAs, strut rods, BBP spindles etc. Factory parts and rubber bushings. Been through a dozen threads around this topic, question is, am I correct in thinking ‘73 strut rod length (with ‘73 style 2 piece bushings) will give me the correct length for proper alignment of my LCAs?

 

[Stranglehold]

It ain’t cosmoline but it won’t rust

 

[junkyardhero]

1- those look like pre 73 lower arms.

2- run the strut rod that the K (and subsequently) the bushing takes stock.

otherwise it's just a whole fiasco that involves trimming the 73+ bushing & sleeve down to kinda sorta fit.
(unless they've re-redesigned the parts that didn't work in the 90's)

edit: sorry, it's been a long day.

if you want to run the 73+ style two piece bushing, then you'll need to run the 73+ strut rods, or at least you *should* and the fix for this is a 3/16" (or whatever it is) spacer to take up the difference in distance between the two pieces-- the pre 73 are longer bushing point to arm mount, but the 73 and up have a longer "snout" that accommodates the thickness of the two piece bushing and the difference in the K

 

[Oldmanmopar]

It is the strut rod itself that determines the bushing. Lower control arms have the same dimensions. . Coarse thread takes late 73 and newer . Fine thread are 67-72

 

[jos51700]

The real question is, why are you running that morphodite mess? Just get the '73 and later k frame and be done with it. Then it's all correct together.

 

[Kern Dog]

The real question is, why are you running that morphodite mess? Just get the '73 and later k frame and be done with it. Then it's all correct together.

Maybe the dude does not care about being stuck on factory correct appearances.
Remember when A bodies were the cars that were not worth much so enthusiasts were free to build them how they wanted? Back then, we'd cut holes in the aprons to run huge headers, we'd use whatever parts we could find to get it running and not care what is factory correct.
I'm still living in those days because I'm in this hobby to have fun, not to "earn" a cheap gold painted trophy after sitting behind my pristine car all day at a car show.

 

[Stranglehold]

The real question is, why are you running that morphodite mess? Just get the '73 and later k frame and be done with it. Then it's all correct together.

I have a 73+ K sitting on a shelf. I want to go BBP and I’m trying to keep a “factory appearing” look hence the period correct K. It’s not a #s car, but I would like to appear factory with some OE upgrades.

 

[Stranglehold]

Maybe the dude does not care about being factory correct appearances.
Remember when A bodies were the cars that were not worth much so enthusiasts were free to build them how they wanted? Back then, we'd cut holes in the aprons to run huge headers, we'd use whatever parts we could find to get it running and not care what is factory correct.
I'm still living in those days because I'm in this hobby to have fun, not to "earn" a cheap gold painted trophy after sitting behind my pristine car all day at a car show.

Totally agree. I want a factory look so I use original where I can. I ain’t sourcing Kelsey Hayes and correct strut rods cause I have the 73 stuff. It’ll look good enough for me.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Did you know that you can use your original 4 piston kelsey hayes small bolt brakes with 66 mustang rotors and it will be Big bolt and not move the wheels out 3/8 inch per side like the 73 brakes do. There are many articles on what inner seals and bearings to use. But The OEM mopar bearings and seals will fit with 2 simple cuts on the inner hub on the mustang rotors . Its the new way and no hunting 73 parts or using the aftermarket sets.

A much better tire and wheel fitment that prevents tire rub that you get on some models. You gain 3/8's per side with the 73 brakes and another 1/2 inch with the 6 inch wheels. For the rear we drill the drums and axles and use a 1/4 inch spacer if running 8 inch wheels on the rear due to the 4 1/2 back space.

 

[moparlvr166]

Just to point something out, your lower ball joints are installed on the incorrect side, also since they are for the 73 & up disc bks. the nipple for the turning stops need to be trimmed approx. 3/8 inch so you will still have a turning radius if using on 72 & earlier lower control arms. Have fun with the build.

 

[Kern Dog]

Just to point something out, your lower ball joints are installed on the incorrect side.

Holy crap, I missed that. GOOD catch.
I would have noticed that if I were assembling it. Looking at the pictures, it slipped by me.

 

[Stranglehold]

Im still learning, thanks. And I do have the earlier LCAs. That’s why my car had the earlier sway bar on it with these style bushings.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Your doing a good job and it never hurts to ask questions. We all learn something new everyday. I just found a Duster door badge and I have no clue what it came on from the factory.

The easiest way to install those bushings in that bracket is to cut one weld . Spread it ,install it, Clamp it and re-weld it.

Also you can use your original 67-72 bar by installing the spindles on the opposite side for the 73 brakes so the caliper is in the rear. Use 73 Roadrunner brake hoses.

 

[Stranglehold]

Your doing a good job and it never hurts to ask questions. We all learn something new everyday. I just found a Duster door badge and I have no clue what it came on from the factory.

The easiest way to install those bushings in that bracket is to cut one weld . Spread it ,install it, Clamp it and re-weld it.

Also you can use your original 67-72 bar by installing the spindles on the opposite side for the 73 brakes so the caliper is in the rear. Use 73 Roadrunner brake hoses.

View attachment 1716421097

Thanks for the tips. I knew I read somewhere the 73 brakes had to move to the back as they interfere with the sway bar or something.