12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build

Members Restorations

  1. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build

    After trolling this page for quite some time, I decided it was time to share my rebuild with everyone. Don’t let the title of the thread fool you, this isn’t a high end shop building a car with an unlimited budget. It’s a one man show in my home garage.
    Along with my love of Mopars, I also enjoy the sport of triathlon. 12:05 is the time it took me to complete my first Ironman triathlon. If you don’t know what that is, look it up. I won’t bog this thread down with that. Anyway, I wanted to combine those two passions into a name for my happy place, my garage. A good friend of mine came up with the name so he will get all the royalty checks…
    I’ve owned a 70 Duster for nearly half my life. I played with cars most of my childhood with my father; he had a 67 Mustang. After tinkering with that as a kid, it didn’t take long for the gear head seed to be planted and I was always playing with Hotwheels and even drawing cars. In 4th grade I met a kid at school and we became pretty good friends. It turns out his father restored Mopars as a hobby. There were always awesome cars around. Some of the best ones were a 70 Hemi Cuda, a 69 Hemi Coronet R/T (one of 53), 6 pack Super Bees, and every combination of Road Runner you could imagine, just to name a few. How could one not fall in love with muscle cars? There were some A-bodies in there, but my friend’s dad was mostly a B-Body guy. As you can imagine, it wasn’t long before I wanted my own Mopar. I acquired the Duster in 1996 as a roller. It was originally a 190ci /6 with zero options except an automatic transmission.
    My goal was to turn it into a 71, 340 Duster clone, mostly because I liked the 71 340 stripes. I started collecting parts until I had enough to justify starting work on the car. I did all the work on the car myself with some help from my friends when needed. (I’m only going to include some pics of that build since this thread is about the 2nd time around with this car.)
    I finished the restoration in 1997. I drove the car to all the local cruise nights and local Mopar only car shows. I took home several Top 25 plaques. I was a happy kid.
    Then, the drag racing bug hit. My first pass is a mostly stock 340 was 13.40. I was hooked and wanted to go faster- who doesn’t. With a little more work, I eventually got the car to run mid 12s with the 340. Then I found out what happens to hypereutectic pistons when they run just slightly lean. I really wanted an 11 second car that I could still drive around on the street without fear or tearing something up. I decided to build a 360. It turned out to be a good running motor and got the car to run consistent 11.50s. Well one day I was on my way to a cruise night and got stuck behind a wedding procession and sat in one spot for a while. For some reason the motor overheated. I’m not really sure why, it hadn’t ever done it before. Maybe it was the summer temperatures in south Louisiana that helped with that. I made it home that night and about a week later I noticed white smoke out one pipe. I had cracked a cylinder.
    Being a freshly graduated college student with a good job, why not build a bad ass motor. The stroker kits had just come out for the Mopar small blocks. Edelbrock had recently released their aluminum heads, and Indy wasn’t far behind with their heads. The aftermarket for small block Mopars was finally coming alive. I procured a 1971 360 block (supposedly the best blocks were early 70s), and a balanced rotating assembly complete with Eagle Rods, Ross pistons and a stroker crank. I was at the Mopar Nationals and Indy was there with there “New Small block heads”. They wouldn’t sell them. They were just debuting them and were not in production yet. I ended up buying Edelbrock heads that were sent to Indy prior to being machined. Indy cut bigger valves and moved the pushrod hole over to allow for bigger ports. I’ve heard them called Indy-Brocks. So the day came when I stuck this beast in the car. It was complete with 13.5 compression and a huge solid roller cam. When it came to life, I nearly pissed on myself it was so loud. My original thought was, “I over did it!”
    After lots of chassis tuning and getting the right torque convertor and getting the correct rear end gear for this motor, the car eventually ran 10.50s all day long. This was a full interior car with bench seat, 8” wide rear wheel, and exhaust. It still retained the factory style paint. It was a very deceiving car. Lots of guys in the staging lanes didn’t believe it was an all motor small block running that fast. Oh, did I mention I had the entire motor painted orange, including the heads and intake just to trick the untrained eye.
    So that fun lasted a while, but I obviously wasn’t going very far on the street with 13.1 compression.
    At this point, the years have all gotten mixed up in my head. The last time I raced the car was probably around 2008. At some point in time I pulled the motor and changed the pistons to a pump gas friendly compression ratio. Around 2011 I picked up a 5 speed Tremec from a buddy that had purchased the conversion kit but never installed it in his car. Once I put that 5 speed in the car, I really started missing cruising around in the car. If you haven’t driven or ridden in a car with lots of power and a 5 speed- do it!
    The paint and interior was starting to show its age. It was now over ten years old since I had done the restoration. The car was nearly rust free when I got it, but now there was some rust bubbling up in the quarters and rockers. The headliner was falling, the carpet was getting ratty, and the paint was fading.
    In 2012 I decided I was going to restore the interior since I had cut the roll cage out I had to replace the carpet. I also wanted to install buckets seats and a console. Well I have a problem with knowing where to stop when I start working on things. It wasn’t long before I was scraping paint off and repairing the rust holes. In my mind I didn’t think it would make much sense to only restore the interior because I needed to paint the jambs when I changed the paint color.
    I only worked on the car a little bit since 2012 until just a few months ago. It wasn’t because I didn’t want to, it was really because I didn’t have much time. Remember that Ironman thing I mentioned earlier, that consumes a bunch of time. I also moved in the middle of 2013 and started building a new house (complete with much larger garage), then moved into the new house earlier this year. After buttoning up most of the major honey do items, I’m back on my car.
     

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  2. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    These are some pics after I started tearing it down again.
     

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  3. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Since I'm moving the battery to the trunk, I decided to try and make it look like a battery tray never existed under the hood. You can also see where I've smoothed the indentation for the wiring harness.
     

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  4. Tbone416

    Tbone416 Well-Known Member

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    cool nice job and sweet car!!! more pics please.
     
  5. Abodybomber

    Abodybomber Breaking street machines , since 1983.....:) Legendary Member

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    Great story,cool car.
     
  6. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Dug up some more pics when I was doing rust repair. As I mentioned, this car was mostly rust free. The left lower quarter was the worst spot. I probably could have gotten away with only replacing about half of the lower quarter, but I didn't want any surprises in a couple years since it is impossible to see behind it. I went ahead and just replaced the whole lower quarter.
     

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  7. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    I managed to get all the body work done on the outside of the car done before I moved. All I really have left was the engine compartment and the under side of the hood (stripping paint off). I left the drivetrain and suspension in the car so it would be easier to move. Now that I'm in my new garage, I built a cradle to hold the engine/trans and dropped it out from the bottom. These are the most recent pictures. In fact, the ones of the stripped engine compartment pics are from yesterday.
     

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  8. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Holidays and work travel have prevented me from working on my car as much as I want, but I did purchase my EFI controller and assembled it. I'm going with the Megasquirt 3X, which has full sequential fuel and spark control. I will be using GM LS style coils for spark and a single 92mm throttle body on a 90 degree elbow off my M1 intake, which will be drilled for injector bungs.
    DIY Autotune sells the Megasquirt products either assembled or with some assembly required. I chose to purchase the kit that requires the components to be soldered to the circuit board. I haven't done this type of work since college, so I thought it would be fun to do, and it really was. One of the manuals says it will take 8 hours to solder everything on the board. I'm not sure where they got that from, it probably took me half that. If anyone is curious about building one of their kits, it is really simple and you really only need to know how to read and solder to build the kit. All of the components come in little bags that are marked with their proper location.

    I did progress on the body work in the engine compartment. I'm hoping to shoot some primer on it before the years' end. No pics of that yet because body work is boring..
     

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  9. Abodybomber

    Abodybomber Breaking street machines , since 1983.....:) Legendary Member

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    Been watching the Megasquirt based stuff ,for a while. A guy( I worked with) with a 69 Mustang, assembled the base kit for his mild 351w. Really seemed to work well, considered the investment.
     
  10. goldduster318

    goldduster318 Overzealous Car Modifier

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    I'm also planning to do megasquirt, but I'm going with the Megasquirt Pro for the smaller size and being able to mount it in the engine bay.

    Since I'm also going with LSx coils, are you going to be using the 36-1 crank wheel and a 92+ 5.2/5.9 magnum distributor? That's how I'm going to get the sequential on mine. I found a place that will do custom crank wheels.
     
  11. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    That is exactly what I am going to do for crank and cam position. I was originally planning on using the Jeep 4.0 cam position sensor since the drive is very similar to the A engine drive and would really just need an adapter to get the height correct, but for now I'm just going to go with the Magnum dizzy without a cap to make things easy. I'm not completely scrapping the Jeep sensor idea, just have so many other things to do with the car, I figured that would be a fun upgrade down the road.
    What are you thinking of doing for the 36-1? Right now my plan is to use a crank mandrel with a 1" stub shaft. I'm leaning towards the Jones Racing Products piece right now, but there are others out there. Then I would just need the 36-1 wheel to have a 1" bore with a keyway. I have other ideas in my head, but that's the direction I'm leaning right now.
     
  12. goldduster318

    goldduster318 Overzealous Car Modifier

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    I'm going to order a custom 36-1 wheel with a bore in the middle from
    http://www.millersmule.com/MillersM...html#/diameter-8/extras-add_bore/plating-zinc

    I had seen this before in:
    http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=f8g27sgl3ivdkoc7p6d6cqorv4&topic=99432.25

    and then weld it to the crank pulley at the step where it flares out. I should then be able to build a sensor bracket that either mounts to some water pump bolts or the pan rail. Probably getting this hall sensor:
    http://www.newark.com/hamlin/55075-ap-02-a/sensor-hall-effect-25-2v-cable/dp/15J7653
     
  13. joeboy

    joeboy Well-Known Member

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    Nice lookin car, keep up the good work, You won't be disappointed with the EFI, and COP... That DIY stuff has come a long way, there is a great thread about it in the HEMI section if you haven't seen it yet.

    BTW congrats on completing a ironman, those are no joke.

    Joe
     
  14. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the links. I haven't seen those trigger wheels from that vendor. I have seen the Charger build. That guy did a great job on the conversion. I really like that Edelbrock intake manifold. I called Edelbrock to find out if they were going to make one for the LA engines and they said they weren't working on one and didn't have any plans to design one in the near future. I can see it now, I'll get mine up and running then they will release it...
     
  15. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I can't wait to drive it! I read a thread on a late model hemi with MS. Is that the one you are talking about?

    You are right, IM is no joke and a very time consuming adventure. I'm glad I did it. I learned a lot about myself both mentally and physically.
     
  16. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Managed to get the body work done in the engine compartment and shot some primer yesterday. I think it really turned out nice. The absence of the wire harness indentation and battery box mounts make a huge difference. I'm planning on running all the wiring for lights and such in the fender well. The EFI wiring will come out the firewall behind the engine with a bulkhead connector. I'm trying to keep it as clean as possible.

    I see XV Motorsports is back in business and has the lower core supports in stock. I've read some stories of them not shipping product out, but that was before they shut down for a while. I'm going to give them a try since I'd prefer their lower core support over the US Car Tool piece.

    I also hung the doors back on the car to get the hinges in the right spot and also check the gaps and lines. After I block it out a couple times, I'll take them off and cut the jams in. The hood is also off and I'm starting to strip the yellow paint from the underside. That will be the last of paint removal and I can move on to the fun stuff, sanding and priming and sanding and priming....
     

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  17. rgreule

    rgreule Well-Known Member

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    the firewall looks great, keep up the good work.
     
  18. joeboy

    joeboy Well-Known Member

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    Firewall and inner fenders look great, I'm way jealous, i totally missed the boat on mine

    Joe
     
  19. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    I'm trying to think of everything that requires cutting, drilling, grinding before there is color on the car. I'm sure I'll think of something I missed the day after I paint it.
     
  20. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Just about done my first round of block sanding. Just need to scuff the jambs and go around and putty pin holes or any other imperfections. Hung the doors and fenders to get the lines straight. Awesome how easy everything lined up. Happy to have a car that was never in a major crash and still has all the sheet metal it was born with.

    Made a trip to the junk yard to get some sensors and connectors for my efi conversion. I bought some SRT-8 take off injectors and 92mm throttle body off eBay. Also pictured below is the stab elbow and fuel rails.

    My XV lower core support is supposed to be here Monday and I also ordered an adapter for the Jeep cam sensor from SD Concepts. It should arrive next week as well. I'll post some pics up when I get it.
     

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  21. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    I received my Jeep 4.0 cam sequencer adapter today from SD Concepts. I must say this thing is super high quality. The fits are perfect and the machine finish it top notch. One super cool feature is the hold downs are integrated into the bushing. If anyone is thinking of making this conversion, I highly recommend getting this adapter. I was going to have one machined locally and the price for a one off was way more than I paid from SDC.

    I got the XV lower core support welded in. No pics of that yet since I still need to do some sheet metal work.
     

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  22. racerjoe

    racerjoe Well-Known Member

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    Been a while since I updated this thread. I have been working on the car, but haven't had anything exciting to report. Yesterday I primed the whole car again. I'll let the primer sit for a couple weeks before I start blocking again. It should go much quicker this time since just about all the spots that needed attention have been fixed. I'm still shooting to have color on the car this spring.
    I brought my M1 intake to a friends machine shop about a month ago so he can install the injector bungs. I'm anxious to get it back so I can start making my EFI harness.
     

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  23. barbee6043

    barbee6043 barbee 6043 FABO Gold Member

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    good story and interesting work. keep it up!!!
     
  24. 340duster

    340duster Well-Known Member

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    Subscribed. Great story, keep the pics and progress coming!
     
  25. Princess Valiant

    Princess Valiant Duster specialist FABO Gold Member

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    ok, I have to ask .....what is the story on the coronet wagon in the first post?

    I have a 68 coronet wagon just like the one in your picture and I have considered using it as a tow vehicle. What did you have to do to it to make a tow vehicle, was it just as easy as adding a hitch or was there more??
     
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