13.5 Volt Mopar Voltage Regulator.

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340six

King Of Bling
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We were looking for my box of late 70s to mid 90s Orange, Gold Race ECU and found some of these. I know there are a few threads on them some say ok to use, some say no. Even saw someone said problems are coated so can't ground them. Seems silly as you would just scrape clean and ground.
With the current quality of new parts use or let them get more dust. Carry as spare in case?

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I believe the entire mess over these is due to a miss statement by someone in some publication. The job of a VR is EXACTLY what the name of the component implies. It REGULATES VOLTAGE. It does not care about current, wattage, or oranges per bushel. And as you say, "scrape it clean."
 
Use star washers on the bolts, then it will ground fine.

The auto manufacturers built millions of cars for many decades and they never scraped any paint under grounded boxes bolted to the body. And they put a warranty on all of these cars. Worked fine.
 
Use star washers on the bolts, then it will ground fine.

The auto manufacturers built millions of cars for many decades and they never scraped any paint under grounded boxes bolted to the body. And they put a warranty on all of these cars. Worked fine.
That's what I do.
My question is guess is is it ok to use these as regular VR since MA Mopar says race. Some guys say no boils batteries
 
We were looking for my box of late 70s to mid 90s Orange, Gold Race ECU and found some of these. I know there are a few threads on them some say ok to use, some say no. Even saw someone said problems are coated so can't ground them. Seems silly as you would just scrape clean and ground.
With the current quality of new parts use or let them get more dust. Carry as spare in case?

View attachment 1716435220

The only real difference in the Direct Connection/Mopar Performance P3690731 voltage regulator and Chrysler production units is the lack of thermal compensation. Production units are thermally compensated and vary regulation of voltage depending on temperature.

Nominal charging voltage of the charging system is 13.8 volts at 80 degrees Fahrenheit with an operating range of 13.8 to 14.4 volts around that temperature. At lower temperatures, voltage is increased for higher demand of the battery when colder, moving toward a range of 14.3 to 15.3 volts at -20 degrees. Voltage decreases with higher temperatures for lesser demand of the battery when warmer, moving toward a range of 13.3 to 14.0 volts at +140 degrees.

The Direct Connection/Mopar Performance P3690731 voltage regulator does not have this temperature compensation and operates at a constant voltage of 13.8 to 14.0 volts regardless of temperature. Using this on a street car is not a problem itself. However if operated at low temperature extremes, the system may undercharge, or if operated at hot temperature extremes, the system may overcharge, for the respective conditions.

Typically, overcharging with the P3690731 voltage regulator might be more of a possible issue with hot under hood temperatures, than a production regulator. If the regulator is properly installed, connected and grounded with a healthy charging system, it will operate fine otherwise. Carrying as a spare will pose no issues.

The Direct Connection/Mopar Performance P3690732 voltage regulator which is a similar solid state replacement for the 1969 and earlier alternator system voltage regulator also does not have thermal compensation, although the original electro-mechanical units it replaced did not have direct ambient thermal compensation. P3690732 will operate similarly in temperature conditions as the 1970 and later P3690731 voltage regulator with a constant voltage of 13.8 to 14.0 volts.

Chrysler specified the use of the P3690732 voltage regulator on 1969 and earlier alternator systems when upgrading to electronic ignition for a more controlled voltage level with less transients than the electro-mechanical units delivered for the tighter requirement of supply voltage of the electronic control units (ECUs). Alternatively, switching to a 1970 and later alternator and regulator system can be used to the same effect.

Properly installed, connected and grounded with a healthy charging system, the P3690732 will also operate fine, considering the same thermal compensation, and carrying one as a spare will also pose no issues.

Note that the foregoing is based on original design and manufacture of Chrysler voltage regulators. Modern design and manufacture of aftermarket and current replacement units could, and do, vary.
 
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He nailed it 13.8 constant output. A reg one is 13.8 +- 2 VDC that turns on and off.
 
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I run those in all my street cars successfully.
Thanks John and all the others who responded.
I have had them sitting unused for year's.
And we all know how new stuff is made.
Now if you could help me find the box of ECU I have. I sure find plenty ofter things instead of what I am looking for
Why do I have block heaters and live so far south the Gulf of America is 35 min away. Mopar Rotors, Caps, Radiator Caps, Termostats, Houseings, Coils, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wire Sets,, Ballist Resisters both kind, 120 Oil Filters. Everything but the darn ECU.
And my wife says sell none of it.
Guess when I die you will see her table at a car show

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I ran their version of the early one for years on my 65 Valiant with zero trouble.
 
Another footnote - many of the parts store replacements are constant voltage (set with 5% tolerance resistors, no less!) and omit the temperature change feature. Not endorsing that, but it's clearly something they're getting away with.
 
It will cut your battery life in half and eventually blow out your dash and headlight bulbs. lol
It will boil your battery and send acid fumes throughout creating rust in places you don't want.
 
It will cut your battery life in half and eventually blow out your dash and headlight bulbs. lol
It will boil your battery and send acid fumes throughout creating rust in places you don't want.
Is there a downside as well?
 
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