1962 383

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4fortyDemon

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I recently bought a 383 from a member on here. We'll I get what I deserve not looking it over... but I won't get into that.
Point is, its a '62 383. Is it worth putting together or is it a ******* 400 dollar boat anchor? Im not at all familiar with **** this old. The rods show a casting number from 62 all the way to 74. My concern is the crank. Isn't the early ones have
a different register for the torque converter?
Thanks in advance.
 
Is it worth putting together or is it a ******* 400 dollar boat anchor
:popcorn:

I wouldnt sell any of my BBMs for $400. Was it already being used as a boat anchor?? '62 and up use the modern style crank flange, IIRC. And if not, a low deck crank is not hard to find, nor expensive if you stick with the short stroke....theyre almost all forged and strong too. Really depends on your goals for the build.
 
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If it's all matching 62 stuff, it will have four bolt holes for the valve covers and not six. They had a propensity for leaks. Also, it may have bolt on blocks for the rocker shafts, similar to the W2 and early Max Wedges. I THINK that's right, but I'm usure. PLUS there's always the possibility it's no longer original so there's that. As for the small crank register, I'm unsure whether the big blocks had that trait or not, but I bet @Charrlie_S will know.
 
Also, it may have bolt on blocks for the rocker shafts, similar to the W2 and early Max Wedges. I THINK that's right,
No, its absolutely right. Actually they arent as easy to find anymore and someone still running early Maxie heads or really any heads 63 or earlier may need them. One mans junk, yada yada. :thumbsup:
 
All the cranks have the same registry
size. If there is a issue with the crank
I will be happy to exchange it for another one at
no charge.
 
Rusty, It's kinda a long, typical story. However, to let the person off the hook, so to speak, they said they got it in trade and knew nothing about it other than it wasn't run long on a 40 over rebuild. It was plain stupidity on my part and trust. I just took it all apart. Its a low buck shitty rebuild. Cast pistons, garbage timing chain. Supposed performance cam which i planned on not using anyway.

Anyone know about if the block mounting placement will work on a 67-72 k member? I guess now, thats my concern even more.

Lesson learned. I trust NO ONE for engines or trans,or rear parts unless I see pictures or in person. Dumbass move learned.
 
All the cranks have the same registry
size. If there is a issue with the crank
I will be happy to exchange it for another one at
no charge.
John, no need to get involved. Im just trying to figure this **** out. Im trying to get info and blow off steam.
 
Rusty, It's kinda a long, typical story. However, to let the person off the hook, so to speak, they said they got it in trade and knew nothing about it other than it wasn't run long on a 40 over rebuild. It was plain stupidity on my part and trust. I just took it all apart. Its a low buck shitty rebuild. Cast pistons, garbage timing chain. Supposed performance cam which i planned on not using anyway.

Anyone know about if the block mounting placement will work on a 67-72 k member? I guess now, thats my concern even more.

Lesson learned. I trust NO ONE for engines or trans,or rear parts unless I see pictures or in person. Dumbass move learned.
One more thing to check. The early 383s also came in an RB (that's right, raised block) variety, like the 440, so you need to check for that as well. If that's what you have, you really have a pig in a poke.
 
If it's all matching 62 stuff, it will have four bolt holes for the valve covers and not six. They had a propensity for leaks. Also, it may have bolt on blocks for the rocker shafts, similar to the W2 and early Max Wedges. I THINK that's right, but I'm usure. PLUS there's always the possibility it's no longer original so there's that. As for the small crank register, I'm unsure whether the big blocks had that trait or not, but I bet @Charrlie_S will know.
I have 906s to build so that's not an issue. I appreciate the information though!
 
:popcorn:

I wouldnt sell any of my BBMs for $400. Was it already being used as a boat anchor?? '62 and up use the modern style crank flange, IIRC. And if not, a low deck crank is not hard to find, nor expensive if you stick with the short stroke....theyre almost all forged and strong too. Really depends on your goals for the build.
Lefty, just a mild 400 horse or so build. Probably throw a little spray to it.
 
In the seller's defense, you shouldda known you weren't gonna get a big block ready for spray for 400 clams. lol
Omg..lol. you're killing me! lol.
I just needed a decent builder. Hopefully not needing bored out. Or a scored crank. Crank has scratches . Im taking it all to a machine shop in Arizona to determine the next step. Pistons are way in the hole even though theyre new.
What do you mean?! Doesn't EVERYONE buy engines ready to race under $500??
Hahaha!!
 
I'm not sure, so I wanted to throw it in there for an FYI. Have you checked the date codes?
Again, there was a lot of stuff I was buying, I haven't ever bought an engine this early in my life. I looked over the bores a bit ( its a short block) and didn't even THINK to look at the casting date.
 
Stock cast replacement (not original) pistons for a 383 are all gonna be "way in the hole." No matter what year, hp rating, etc. They're all the same. Want zero deck or close, need aftermarket performance pistons.

From 62-on, 383 cranks are interchangeable. All 383 cranks are forged. Early 400 cranks could be cast or forged, later ones (edit: for cars) are all cast. A 400 crank will fit in a 62 383.

62 383 heads will have 2.08 intake valves, 1.60 exhaust valves. As mentioned, 62 heads only have four valve cover bolts, and the rocker hold down stands are not cast in. Six bolt valve covers and cast in rocker shaft stands began in 64.

All later big block heads will fit a 62 383 block.

All 383-400 intake manifolds will fit 62 383 heads (we're talking NON-max wedge here).

All big block cams will fit a 62 383 block - from early to late. Big block lifters, same thing.

All big block timing chains will fit. A stock 62 chain won't be double roller, but a double roller will fit.

Any big block oil pan will bolt to a 62 383 block (may not fit a 62 chassis, but that's a different issue).

Any big block oil pump will bolt to a 62 383 block.

In short, if you want a 383 block to build a nice performance street 383, a 62 is as usable as any.
 
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Early 400 cranks could be cast or forged, later ones all cast.
Actually, all 400s had forged cranks right up to the end pf production, IF it was a truck engine with a manual transmission. I've seen several examples. I had a 77 virgin engine that had never been apart with a forged crank drilled for a pilot bushing.
 
If it's all matching 62 stuff, it will have four bolt holes for the valve covers and not six. They had a propensity for leaks. Also, it may have bolt on blocks for the rocker shafts, similar to the W2 and early Max Wedges. I THINK that's right, but I'm usure. PLUS there's always the possibility it's no longer original so there's that. As for the small crank register, I'm unsure whether the big blocks had that trait or not, but I bet @Charrlie_S will know.
As far as I know, all mopar "B" and "RB" engines used the same size crank pocket. Also don't forget about the 413 CID engine They had the bolt on rocker stands. I have used them on 440 engine to help correct valve train geometry and am in the process of trying them on a slant six. I have a couple of sets.
 
Actually, all 400s had forged cranks right up to the end pf production, IF it was a truck engine with a manual transmission. I've seen several examples. I had a 77 virgin engine that had never been apart with a forged crank drilled for a pilot bushing.
Thanks. I don't know nothing about no trucks. . . .
 
Omg..lol. you're killing me! lol.
I just needed a decent builder. Hopefully not needing bored out. Or a scored crank. Crank has scratches . Im taking it all to a machine shop in Arizona to determine the next step. Pistons are way in the hole even though theyre new.
What do you mean?! Doesn't EVERYONE buy engines ready to race under $500??
Hahaha!!
I don't mean to be. I think if everything is good and you have a buildable core, you did ok.
 
Stock cast replacement (not original) pistons for a 383 are all gonna be "way in the hole." No matter what year, hp rating, etc. They're all the same. Want zero deck or close, need aftermarket performance pistons.

From 62-on, 383 cranks are interchangeable. All 383 cranks are forged. Early 400 cranks could be cast or forged, later ones all cast. A 400 crank will fit in a 62 383.

62 383 heads will have 2.08 intake valves, 1.60 exhaust valves. As mentioned, 62 heads only have four valve cover bolts, and the rocker hold down stands are not cast in. Six bolt valve covers and cast in rocker shaft stands began in 64.

All later big block heads will fit a 62 383 block.

All 383-400 intake manifolds will fit 62 383 heads (we're talking NON-max wedge here).

All big block cams will fit a 62 383 block - from early to late. Big block lifters, same thing.

All big block timing chains will fit. A stock 62 chain won't be double roller, but a double roller will fit.

Any big block oil pan will bolt to a 62 383 block (may not fit a 62 chassis, but that's a different issue).

Any big block oil pump will bolt to a 62 383 block.

In short, if you want a 383 block to build a nice performance street 383, a 62 is as usable as any.
65 Cuda, thank you for all the info.
I was planning on aftermarket pistons with a high pin height like the last 383 thst I built.
68 had the highest pin height btw.
Really appreciate the time laying out all the similarities for me!
 
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