If you don't have, go over to MyMopar and download a factory service manual, and also the two-page aftermarket wiring diagrams,........these last are sometimes easier to follow but not always complete
THERE ARE TWO wires involved but if you "pay attention" you can ease this
For a quick hookup, BYPASS the ballast resistor by making a wire with male "flag" terminals just like the ballast resistor. Then take the original coil+ wire---which remains connected to the coil---and branch off of that to the HEI module
=============================
HOW IT WORKS. The key supplies "run" 12V to ONE wire out into the engine bay. Depending on year, this supplies the ignition system and voltage regulator power AS WELL as acting as the "voltage sense" at the VR
BUT THIS voltage goes DEAD during START. So how does the ignition get power? The coil / ballast bypass circuit, called IGN2, the BROWN which is at the end of the ballast, and THAT end of the ballast goes to the coil+ terminal. THAT wire comes from the key, and is ONLY energized in the "START" position, BUT it is a separate switch contact from the "start" wire which causes the starter to operate. THAT BROWN when cranking, causes full battery V to go to the coil+ and provides a good hot spark for starting
=============================
Additional.........These girls can have problems in the bulkhead connector and ignition switch circuit that are well known, causing "voltage drop" and can cause OVER charging because the voltage drop situation causes the VR to OVER volt the battery. Once you get this running you might consider checking the battery voltage while warmed and running to be sure it is not abnormally high. You want nominal 13.8, no less than 13.5, no more than 14.2
