1964 Dodge Dart GT, axle seal replacement on 7 1/4 rear-end.

[rick_rawker]

I looked at other threads. No, mine does not have C clips. My axle pulled out freely after undoing the four retaining nuts on axle flange. Luckily the sealed bearing was in great shape. The Seal was difficult to get out, as the pic depicts. AND THE CORRECT SEAL FOR MINE WAS # 484058 ( National, Federal Mogul ) purchased it O' Riely's for around $25.00 with Texas tax. ( way too much for this product, but, we are talking classic cars here ) It is skinnier than the one pulled out, but, OD/ID is perfect. The job took me two hours, not counting the waiting time for the correct seal. Some earlier threads I checked out did not reflect the correct seal # for my application.


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[BillGrissom]

I did that on my 69 Dart and 65 Newport at least 15 years ago. I took the axles to a local auto shop in Atlanta that replaced the bearings. According to the FSM, the ring securing the bearing is a soft metal that can be split with a cold chisel. Not sure where you can buy a new one. The bearings weren't expensive then. I replaced the seals. I have a better tool today (Harbor Freight Seal Remover) which is a shaft with hooked ends that you rock to pry the seal out.

Automotive sources sometimes charge >$50 for a $5 bearing. Most are standard sizes which you can match by reading the numbers or measuring. I did that for a "special" bearing inside a FWD Mopar transmission and found it cheap at a trailer supply shop.

The manual shows a thin white gasket between the bearing plate and brake backing plate. I bought new Felpro one, which was a foam plastic similar to firewall gaskets. One could cut a new one fairly easy.

I suspect the main duty of the oil seal is to keep oil splashed and sloshed on turns away from the brakes. I doubt it is intended to work against a constant level. My leaks might have been from over-filling the rear axle.

 

[rick_rawker]

I did that on my 69 Dart and 65 Newport at least 15 years ago. I took the axles to a local auto shop in Atlanta that replaced the bearings. According to the FSM, the ring securing the bearing is a soft metal that can be split with a cold chisel. Not sure where you can buy a new one. The bearings weren't expensive then. I replaced the seals. I have a better tool today (Harbor Freight Seal Remover) which is a shaft with hooked ends that you rock to pry the seal out.

Automotive sources sometimes charge >$50 for a $5 bearing. Most are standard sizes which you can match by reading the numbers or measuring. I did that for a "special" bearing inside a FWD Mopar transmission and found it cheap at a trailer supply shop.

The manual shows a thin white gasket between the bearing plate and brake backing plate. I bought new Felpro one, which was a foam plastic similar to firewall gaskets. One could cut a new one fairly easy.

I suspect the main duty of the oil seal is to keep oil splashed and sloshed on turns away from the brakes. I doubt it is intended to work against a constant level. My leaks might have been from over-filling the rear axle.

Yes Bill, I agree. I did a search on the old seal number and came up with 0 duplicates. If I would have had more time, I would have cross-referenced the od/id and width.

As far as the bearings go, NAPA does still carries the bearing and ring. Be prepared for price shock at the counter. There are no other suppliers that I know of.

I will have to pick up one of those pullers at Harbor Freight next time I'm there. THANKS !