1965 dart slant six v8 swap information

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Shaun65dart

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hey guys. I have a 65 dart 270 with the 225 slant 6 and 904 auto trans. manual drum brakes and stock rear end. I want to start gathering an engine and parts needed for the swap.

I have read that i will need a v8 k member, but some also say i dont. Will my 904 trans work or what would be best? i do want to keep it automatic. Wouldnt be opposed to making it a floor shift either

I would be looking at a 318/340/360. would be running a carbed setup. what years would be best to look at? Im a newbie when it to mopars. I have searched but just trying to get the exact info needed for my 65

Can you guys help me out with a list of what i would need?
 
Your K member is fine. They use the same K member from 63 to 66 for a slant 6 or a small block V8. your transmission will not work though. You will need one with a larger Bell on the front for a V-8. If you're hoping to keep the same cable shift, then you need to find one specific to a 65 as they are one year only. You will need V8 motor mounts from an early V-8 A body and you will need to modify the passenger side one with an extra year for a bolt. You may want to upgrade torsion bars and you are going to have to find a different gas pedal, the drop steering center link, and throttle cable for a V-8. Exhaust manifolds from an early V8 would be a good idea, although there are other options that will work.
What did I miss?
 
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what years and models of transmission would be suitable? 727? i dont need to keep the cable shift. I plan on converting the car to bucket seats and putting the shifter on the floor anyway. when you say exhaust manifolds from an early v8, how early? are there any headers that will work? can i upgrade to power brakes/steering?
 
You can upgrade to power steering if you don't use headers. I would just use 64 to 66 273 exhaust manifolds on it. Power brakes and especially disc brakes would be a good option, but at least put 10 inch drum brakes under it.
Use a 904 trans and an early V-8 radiator. A Dakota radiator from certain years may work. If you're going to beat the car then you're going to have to upgrade the rear end to a 8 and a quarter or a more expensive eight and three quarter rear end.
 
so i need to search for a 904 trans that had or has a v8 mounted to it? will the 727 not work?
 
Yes, a V8 904 is what you will want. 727 will give minor clearance issues and requires more power to drive it. 904s also have a better sprag setup.
 
You will need a V8 center link. There is one for sale in the suspension section.
 
hey guys ,just reading your messages,iam doing the same swap with a 360 on my 65 dart from a 225,iam thinking about power steering ,will it work with shorty headers? also I used the same k member but bought my new motor mounts from Laysons it fit perfect ,
 
hey guys ,just reading your messages,iam doing the same swap with a 360 on my 65 dart from a 225,iam thinking about power steering ,will it work with shorty headers? also I used the same k member but bought my new motor mounts from Laysons it fit perfect ,
also I have an extra center link from a v8 $150.00
 
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I think your best bet is an 8cyl parts car, preferably a good running one. This is my brothers, it was a 6cyl and we swapped everything from a 65 273 car, and spruced it up a bit while we were at it.
 
Also tire rim choice width is limited without up grade to 8 3/4.
But still need to relocate rear leafsprings to frame rail or at least offset kit to put bigger than stock wheels on it.
 
Also tire rim choice width is limited without up grade to 8 3/4.
But still need to relocate rear leafsprings to frame rail or at least offset kit to put bigger than stock wheels on it.

That depends on how big of a tire you want to use. I got 8 inch wide, 26 inch tall slicks on 15 inch cop car wheels under one of my early A body cars and I only had to trim the lip on one wheelwell.
 
That depends on how big of a tire you want to use. I got 8 inch wide, 26 inch tall slicks on 15 inch cop car wheels under one of my early A body cars and I only had to trim the lip on one wheelwell.
Agree,talking tread size above that.
 
modern tire compounds are light years better than what they were 30 years ago, fat tread is no longer mandatory. As for the power steering: The only headers that will fit are ones that go up and over the 3/5 ports. Headman had some angel wings that fit, you can make stock headers fit:
If your willing to cut a few and make some bends, notably the #1 should go straight down and back with the #3 going forward and down along with #1, then you can route #5 up and back like many headers already with #7 usually not an issue except maybe for the steering shaft but thats an EZ fix with a dent or a bow. The power steering box literally takes the entire driver side of the motor from the exhaust ports down. passenger side is almost a drop in of 67 headers with possible a drag link interference that can be clearanced. You want EZ? Cut the inner fenderwells out and run J bars to tie in the shock mount and the rad support. OR just shell out the >$700 for proper 65 headers. these are 2 of maybe 4 full fenderwell models that were available at one time.
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hey guys. I have a 65 dart 270 with the 225 slant 6 and 904 auto trans. manual drum brakes and stock rear end. I want to start gathering an engine and parts needed for the swap.
Locate a set of 64-66 A body 273 (V8) mtr mts. If a 360 hold the dr mt up to the block ears to see where you need to weld a triangle piece on the mt then drill a hole in it so you are useing 3 (maybe 4 been awhile) of the block ears. it is easier than it sounds, you'll see when you get there. Use your /6 eng mt insulators. As said get a V8 904 and there are lockup and non lockup varieties & a low gear version (search for more info on that to make a good choice). 360's will be externally balanced so get a B&M 10239 flexplate (used ones are cheaper & it is a non wearing parts & they are around). there are other nearby recent excellent comprehensive threads on ex manifolds and on oil pans and on headers/manifolds. cut a scallop in the trans crossmember so it matches the cutout on the other side (box it when done for strength) so when you run dual ex it wont hang down which looks unsightly/unprofessional. can use an iron or an alum water pump & they have inlets on the opposite sides (to match you radiator lower nipple) and you will deal with timing marks. the iron pump is thinner & getting all (3) matched pulleys for your pump choice is needed. Champion radiators quality has vastly improved & they are very reasonable (I'd get a 3 row core). bigger torsion bars is a good plan as is a sway bar. the 9" drums wont cut it. the 7&1/4 will last if you dont hotrod it, otherwise I would have Moser cut down a 1/2T truck or E body 8&3/4 & go BBP on the wheels on all 4 corners. Keep the column shift linkage if you have the '66 up std rod type (not sure what 65 came with, mighta been that 1 yr cable type) & I would find a '66 column shift steering column. All I can think of for now. EDIT actually 2 matched pulleys (their depth for belt alignment), water pump/crank. diameter is important to some extent.
 
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