1966 Barracuda on rotisserie

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POPS6T6

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So I am going to finally break down and put this thing in the air, need to get the underside blasted and painted and figured that not only would this make it easier, it would come in handy on a few friends projects that we are starting.

I am looking at buying this rotisserie and was just curious how I could make this adapt to fit a 66 Barracuda? I've been trying to find pictures to figure out how to connect the car to the rotisserie, but haven't had much luck. Anyone with any ideas or examples?

Thanks,
John
 

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try us tool !!!! they have kits you cab buy--Steve
 
Not to be negative, or insulting, but that doesn't look strong enough to hold a car. Also hard to imagine how you would attach it to the car.

I got mine on Craigslist used for $600. It's way heavier, possibly overkill, but better safe than sorry. I've since cut the extra steel off the brackets and modified them to fit my Dart. Also invested in new casters. These were shot.
 

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if you can weld good build one. do some research on u tube and here.
i built mine for about 300 with the casters. and most places will cut the steel to what ever lengths you need. mine will even angle cut. then all thats left is some drilling for hight adjustment pins. mine loos very simalar to the one above. just no bottle jacks.
will be adding those next car.
 
65DartGTConv if you were closer I would rent that from ya!!

This one is alot stronger than it looks in the pic. The truck is in the background so if you actualy do a comparison, it is quite heavy duty. He built it to hold over 3,000lbs. He had a 67 Firebird on it and here are a few pictures of a Jensen (I know a very small car) but all I am putting on it is a 66 Barracuda with no K-frame, no rear end, no glass and no interior at all. Just a bare stripped down body, no fenders even. I would think this would hold it with no problem?
 

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Also was considering adding hydraulic long ram bottle jacks on that front leg. I would have to remove that angled brace and put two (one on each side leg) on each side, and then mount the jack on the front leg.. I found hydraulic jacks that are 24" collapsed and raise to 44" when extended. Would that be enough clearance to spin it?
 
Just got some specs on it.. per the owner "the main square tubing is 4" and the over tubing for Height adjustment is either 4.5" or 5" square tubing. It is all thick walled stock unlike the industry which uses thin walled tubing. When you see what I have done to the mounting brackets you may not have to do any mods except maybe drilling a new hole in the sched 80 pipe that it rotates on to get it into the position of rotation you want."

I think that will work just fine..
 
I'm just now getting my car mounted. Last night I dropped the rear axle from the car and connected the two ends of the rotisserie together. But my car still has a gas tank, doors, front fenders, dash, heater and windshield. The whole process is a bit intimidating. It's a lot of weight, and if it were to fall or spin out of control, it could do some damage or really hurt somebody (me). I'm sure it will be better when I get the rest of the weight off.

You should be able to see in my photo, above, that there are two separate verticle adjustments. One of them raises and lowers the car relative to the pivot point. This allows you to balance the car so it rotates easily and doesn't have a tendancy to spin out of control. I think the two hanging braces in your photo are required as a way to compensate for this lack of adjustment. I'm guessing they hold the car in position, but how do you control the weight while you are rotating the car?

Right now my car is hanging with the center of gravity well below the pivot point and so the car is hanging level and is very stable. But, if I try to rotate the car, it takes tremendous effort. Tonight, I will be playing with the adjustment to raise the center of gravity and make the car easier to rotate. This will be a trial and error process, because I have no idea where the CG is located. Also, this will change as I bolt parts back onto the car after paint is finished. I think not having this adjustablity would be a big problem.

I'm still having trouble seeing how this rotisserie connects to the vehicle. Maybe there are more pieces that are not shown. With mine, the brackets that bolt to the rear bumper mounts are puting a lot of torque on the rotisserie.

I found that the two ends of the rotisserie have a tendancy to lean in towards the car, putting most of the weight on the center wheels. I used a long chain and a come along to pull the two ends together until I intalled the connecting tube down the center. This transferred some of the weight to the outer wheels and made the whole thing roll a lot better. Given this tendancy, I would be cautious about removing that angle support.

The hydraulic rams are nice, but I'm not sure they're really necessary. I think they are for moving between adjusting holes. Once you get it where you want it, you put a bolt into the hole to hold the weight. I wouldn't want to trust the rams to hold the car all the time. If you decide to add them, I know Harbor Freight sells them cheap. Alternatively, you could just put jacks under the car and lift it that way.

As for the strength, it's hard to judge. Like I said in my earlier post, I think mine is overkill. This one may be fine. I do think you should add the angle brackets even if you don't put on the hydraulic rams. Also pay attention to how it locks at a particular angle of rotation. Mine uses two bolts at each end, but they just press on the inner pipe and could easily slip. The larger diameter of the pivot pipes helps somewhat but it's still very important to get everything balanced so these bolts don't slip.

I hope this helps. It could be that I'm being paranoid. I tend not to be risk averse about these things, but this makes me nervous. Before I started hanging the car, I figured no big deal. But when you start actually doing it with your own car, it gets your attention.
 
Just got some specs on it.. per the owner "the main square tubing is 4" and the over tubing for Height adjustment is either 4.5" or 5" square tubing. It is all thick walled stock unlike the industry which uses thin walled tubing. When you see what I have done to the mounting brackets you may not have to do any mods except maybe drilling a new hole in the sched 80 pipe that it rotates on to get it into the position of rotation you want."

I think that will work just fine..

Sounds pretty stout. Maybe that photo with the truck behind it is an optical illusion.
 
I think it is plenty strong enough, without the k-member and rear end that body isn't going to weigh much at all. He did say there are holes drilled through both sides of the pipe(s) for adjusting the angle. Having a through-bolt will hold it easily. The rams would be for lifting and lowering only, again a through-bolt through the square tubing (maybe even put one through both sides at 90 degrees and above and below the other (some drilling ahead of me) when I find the best height. I am not sure how those arms work either, he said that once I see that and how it works I may not have to do any modifications to mount the car. I am interested and will keep you all updated on how it works out. Luckily I will be able to weld what I need to it, and for $300 not a bad deal to start with.

Thanks for all your input, I appreciate the concern as this is my prized possesion and the last thing I need is for it to come crashing down..literally!
 
I'd still be concerned about getting the center of gravity aligned with the pivot point so it's balanced. Keep us posted.
 
Here's my 66 Barracuda on a rotisserie. I would ask the guy you're buying this from how he would attach the car and keep it balanced. For the money you're shelling out he should give you some ideas or a little direction. Hope these pictures help.
 

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I need help getting the center of gravity for my rottiserie I got a 71 plymouth scamp but would be the same as a swinger thanks
 
go to autotwirler website and look at there mounting plates. I just bought the pro model for my e body, you can spin it with your pinky finger
 
i made one out of scrap steel tubing. its not a true rotisserie, but will put the body on its side. i had most of the scrap from other projects, and tubing pieces from an old trampoline. had to buy $44 worth of materials to complete it. i made both frames the same by building one on top of the other right on the shop floor. they bolt into the front and rear bumper mounts. this thing is pretty sturdy.
 

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Still need help finding the center:banghead: here are a few pic of mine I made...
 

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Sal,
I have a 71 Dart shell, nothing but the doors on it, on my rotisserie. The main pivot point front and rear are within a 1/2" of each other. The distance from the main pivot to where the body is mounted are also damn near identical. I can spin mine with one hand easily and it stops where I let go, no matter what position the body is in. That should get you really close. L8r
 
Sal, by now I'm guessing you have found your center of gravity. If not, I have mine at 4 inches below the top of the radiator support in the front and 10 inches above the rear bumper bolts. With the car totally stripped, it is still a little bottom heavy. I can rotate it okay, but I have never gone past 90° I didn't have a welder, And I didn't know how to weld at that time, and I had a lot of Wood kicking around, so I built my rotisserie out of wood. Because of the way it's built I can't easily change my pivot point, But it works okay. I would probably change my measurements by 2 inches or so and try that, so 6 inches down from the top of the radiator support, and 8 inches above the rear bumper bolts.
 
Sal, by now I'm guessing you have found your center of gravity. If not, I have mine at 4 inches below the top of the radiator support in the front and 10 inches above the rear bumper bolts. With the car totally stripped, it is still a little bottom heavy. I can rotate it okay, but I have never gone past 90° I didn't have a welder, And I didn't know how to weld at that time, and I had a lot of Wood kicking around, so I built my rotisserie out of wood. Because of the way it's built I can't easily change my pivot point, But it works okay. I would probably change my measurements by 2 inches or so and try that, so 6 inches down from the top of the radiator support, and 8 inches above the rear bumper bolts.
Hey thanks for the replies!
No I haven't found it yet, just gave up on it till I could figure something out!in the mean time I have chopped the old frame rails out and have now backhalf once I finish the sheet metal I will be getting those measurements a shot! Thanks again to both your replies!
 
Sal it looks like your pivot is too tall by a couple feet. It will need to be down in the area of the core support unless you plan on raising the car a couple feet before hooking it up.
 
Sal it looks like your pivot is too tall by a couple feet. It will need to be down in the area of the core support unless you plan on raising the car a couple feet before hooking it up.
Yeah I do have it way low! know looking at it in depth my garage/barn is to low to be able to raise it up any higher. so I guess I'm S.O.L in the case. :violent1: I really should have made the rotisserie lower!
 
Sal, by now I'm guessing you have found your center of gravity. If not, I have mine at 4 inches below the top of the radiator support in the front and 10 inches above the rear bumper bolts. With the car totally stripped, it is still a little bottom heavy. I can rotate it okay, but I have never gone past 90° I didn't have a welder, And I didn't know how to weld at that time, and I had a lot of Wood kicking around, so I built my rotisserie out of wood. Because of the way it's built I can't easily change my pivot point, But it works okay. I would probably change my measurements by 2 inches or so and try that, so 6 inches down from the top of the radiator support, and 8 inches above the rear bumper bolts.

Thanks Roger! @chryslerfat Hey that's a nice 66 Barracuda you got there!
 
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