1967 barracuda with stock electronic distributor no start

[bmoparmofo]

Hi, I have a 67 Barracuda 273 Commando that has been converted over to stock electronic distributor. It's cranking fine but won't start. Battery voltage is 12.78. Voltage wooden cranking at the positive on the coil is roughly 9.6. Voltage on positive coil in run position on ignition switch is 6.7. It doesn't act like it's interested in starting whatsoever. The strange thing is when you turn the ignition switch to the off position it'll pop smoke out of the car almost like it wants to start. Has anyone run into this situation before?

 

[bmoparmofo]

Hi, I have a 67 Barracuda 273 Commando that has been converted over to stock electronic distributor. It's cranking fine but won't start. Battery voltage is 12.78. Voltage wooden cranking at the positive on the coil is roughly 9.6. Voltage on positive coil in run position on ignition switch is 6.7. It doesn't act like it's interested in starting whatsoever. The strange thing is when you turn the ignition switch to the off position it'll pop smoke out of the car almost like it wants to start. Has anyone run into this situation before?

Sorry for the typos, I was going to go back and check it before posting and an ad popped up and when I went to clear it accidentally hit the post button. So it shouldn't say voltage wooden cranking it was supposed to say voltage when cranking. I couldn't find a way to edit the post only just the header of the post. My apologies once again.

 

[67Dart273]

Do the "tap test." "Rig" a test gap, either a spark tester gap or a spark plug, use METAL core wire, not radio suppressed, and you can use low voltage wire if you "hang" it in air away from metal.

Turn the key to run, separate the dist connector, and take the engine bay half, NOT the dist. half. Repeatedly tap the bare terminal of that connector to ground, and each time should result in one single blue hot SNAP spark at least 3/8 and usually more like 1/2" long

If that works suspect the dist. You can set your meter on low AC that's right AC volts and make sure you are making contact in the two pickup terminals of the dist connector. Crank the engine or hand spin the dist and it should generate about 1V AC

"Work" that connector in/' out several times to feel for tightness and to scrub the oxide off. Inspect it with a light for corrosion. If you can round up a .17 cal rifle bristle brush, they will usually fit that connector

Remove dist cap and inspect, for loose bushings, wobble in the shaft, and rust and debri on the reluctor and pickup, and strike damage. The gap is set similar to points, with a .008 brass feeler gauge. (or non magnetic)

Your cranking voltage is some low. For now, try jumpering power direct to coil + but don't leave it long, just for testing.

 

[Dana67Dart]

The strange thing is when you turn the ignition switch to the off position it'll pop smoke out of the car almost like it wants to start. Has anyone run into this situation before

Describe your starting procedure.

 

[bmoparmofo]

Describe your starting procedure.

hi, I turn key to start position to crank, the car cranks over but makes no attempt to start. Releasing the key back to run makes no difference. If I go from Crank to the off position fairly quick the car will pop smoke out the carburetor and it almost seems like it was attempting to start. It only does this when switching the key to the off position fairly quickly after attempting to crank.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Feels like an ignition switch issue

If you have a spare switch I would swap that in under the dash. If it's on the column it's a bit more involved

 

[Bewy]

Check the air gap on the pick up inside the dist. Should be 0.008". If you do not have a brass feeler gauge, two pieces of copy paper is about 008.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Sound like something's wrong.