1967 Dart backup light housing

[Dana67Dart]

This is my latest project.

67 Dart backup light housing
Once proved out, I'm going to have it printed in metal.

This is just the initial body of the housing.

I have the attachment studs and lense attaching holes to do


The dimples on the back are from supports.

Ridges on the front are the slices, the front is slightly curved.

 

[j_anderson]

Nice work!

 

[Dana67Dart]

Getting closer...

A hand full of details.

Need to check some of my dimensions

Got the alignment tang

The plane where the lamp goes in I estimated at 30 deg, but the measurements did not seem to align. I made it 32, turns out 30 is the number.

Oops wrong side of the measurement for the end alignment tabs, I thought something looked wrong.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Well I'm on rev 3, printing as we speak.

The 30 degree bulb hder is spot on bur 0.300" off center so that's fixed (fingers crossed) the end ribs are now correct.

I fixed a hand full of other dimentional issues.

I have some stainless steel 1.25" long set screws coming in for the mounting studs.

I have a bulb holder coming that looks promising.

AND I found a source for the springs in the originals if yours are rusted.

On the housing:

Once you get the bulb out you can feed the wire into the back of the housing.

With a hook you can pull the plastic contact holder and wire in and expose what's left of the spring.

After picking out all the bits and rust you can take the new spring and "screw" it onto the wire. Be careful of the insulation on the initial turn.

Put everything back together.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Got some parts today....

I have 1 more adjustment of the bulb placement and a bunch of fillets.

Another 7 hour print to check fit then off the the metal printer!

The ridges will not show on the metal prints. I was printing at 50 microns to save time.

The next thing is to make a mold to over mold the SAE connector to match the OEM connector and violet wire.

I would like to source a better bulb socket but so far the one I got today is the best I have seen.

 

[Dana67Dart]

0.050 mm was the ticket!

Now for some fillets and off to the printer.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Oh oh oh....

Can you say over mold!

A little tweaking and when my connectors and wire come in I will give it a go.

Play-Doh almost dry

 

[Dana67Dart]

Found a better bulb holder...

 

[j_anderson]

Are those swaged in or do they have tabs to bend over to hold the bulb in place

 

[Dana67Dart]

Tabs.

I thought about adding a boss and a clamp but we will see how it works as is

 

[j_anderson]

Looks really good!

 

[toolmanmike]

Tabs.

I thought about adding a boss and a clamp but we will see how it works as is

Will you need to ground the socket?

 

[Dana67Dart]

Will you need to ground the socket?

I don't think so as the part when printed will be metal.

Time will tell

 

[Dana67Dart]

Sent the file off the be printed today.

Too costly to have them polish it so it will be a sand blasted like surface.

And I'll have to smooth and polish or have a company do it.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Got the print today.

Much better surface finish than I was expecting.

It looks like it could be chromed as is with only a small amount of polishing to the bezel surface.

 

[j_anderson]

Wow

 

[Dana67Dart]

It weighs 1 to 2 oz more than the OEM part

 

[Dana67Dart]

It feels like 2000 to 4000 grit sand paper

 

[j_anderson]

great starting point!

 

[Dana67Dart]

This is with 2000 grit wet dry and a polishing wheel and no rouge

 

[Dana67Dart]

I'm going to see if I can find a metal polishing co near me and see how much it would cost to polish up.

Then take a ride down to Denver and hit up a chrome shop.

My bet is copper / polish / chrome would give great results.

 

[Dana67Dart]

I'm going to have to thicken the bezel part. It measures a bit thinner than OEM and feels too thin

 

[Dana67Dart]

Well this was not expected.

Tapping the holes is extremely difficult.

Feels like i'm snapping off little bits as I turn the tap. Also the tap is twisting a bit as I go

I tried lube no difference. The hole is the correct size.

If I have another 3D printed I'll add threads on the inside of the hole.

Feels like the metal is hard.

OR

Is that just the nature of Stainless steel type of material.

 

[Dana67Dart]

Which one is OEM and which one did I just over mold???