Just so the OP has a feel for what he is getting into, can you give a Wild *** Guess at the the hours needed to make that conversion?
1967 Dodge Dart convert to Modern a Little Reality help needed
- Thread starter Cartierusm
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Cartierusm
Active Member
Long weekend? LOL I grew up restoring and modding cars, just never with new stuff with all the electronics and stuff.
I was figuring more like 30 hours a week for 3 months!!!
Cartierusm
Active Member
Probably. If I'm lucky.
But if it's what would really meet your needs and you like doing this kind of work it could be 3 months of fun! I built my 70 Dart GT during Covid and I think it was what kept me sane...
Cartierusm
Active Member
I've been looking for a project like this for decades and now that I'm retired I can put all the knowledge to work.
Plus it justifies me buying another forklift. I've been missing one at my house. I had one for a long time, but it happened to fit my needs at my business.
Plus it justifies me buying another forklift. I've been missing one at my house. I had one for a long time, but it happened to fit my needs at my business.
I think 17's are a good compromise despite some opinions. It's not too big that it looks out of place.
But the main fact is you have way more tire selections, especially actual performance tires.
Tire selections for 14/15 inch rims are atrocious. Especially once you go past 245 width. Forget actual performance tires. (Sorry, BFGoodrich Radial T/A's are not performance tires. Cooper Cobra's are only slightly better)
There are a few members here that actually got 18's on theirs to look halfway decent. (72bluNblu is a good example).
Right now I have 245/45R17's in the fronts tucked nice an neat. I won't bother telling what I have on my rears as I have a Duster which have bigger rear wheelwells
But the main fact is you have way more tire selections, especially actual performance tires.
Tire selections for 14/15 inch rims are atrocious. Especially once you go past 245 width. Forget actual performance tires. (Sorry, BFGoodrich Radial T/A's are not performance tires. Cooper Cobra's are only slightly better)
There are a few members here that actually got 18's on theirs to look halfway decent. (72bluNblu is a good example).
Right now I have 245/45R17's in the fronts tucked nice an neat. I won't bother telling what I have on my rears as I have a Duster which have bigger rear wheelwells
Anything is possible with time and money. Sounds like you have the knowledge to do so. Whatever you do, post it so we all can learn, help, mentor and watch the progress
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Welcome aboard. Sounds down right crazy! I like it!Anything is possible with time and money. Sounds like you have the knowledge to do so. Whatever you do, post it so we all can learn, help, mentor and watch the progress
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Here's a link to one of our members builds of an A Body Convertible.
This is one of the cleanest builds I've ever seen and everything is done correctly.
Worth the read.
SRT8CUDA Build
Cartierusm
Active Member
Thanks for all the help so far. Working on finding a donor car, man this salvage car auction stuff is a rabbit hole.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
A very nice build and very clean with great attention to detail.
Always wondered how do you provide for fresh air filtration with the open stacks?
I see the screens but they can't provide much filtering.
dano
Evil Handy Man
I'd love to have the 3d models of the dash plastic if you 3d scan it. I've been 3d printing a custom dash insert for a Holley 7" Digit Dash and Sony touch screen.
Otherwise sounds like a cool project. Start a build thread. I've always wanted to know how well modern Challenger seat fit.
For tire fitment, I have 245's on the rear and they require a fender roll. All stock leaf locations and no tub.
Otherwise sounds like a cool project. Start a build thread. I've always wanted to know how well modern Challenger seat fit.
For tire fitment, I have 245's on the rear and they require a fender roll. All stock leaf locations and no tub.
Cartierusm
Active Member
@dano will do once I have some progress and pics. I want to use the seats if I can, if they look right in the car. Will do on the dash plastic. Trying to find a service near SF to do the scanning so I get a cleaned up version that isn't hogging too much RAM, but that might cost a ton and the 3D scanners these days aren't too bad. I guess I could rent one.
Headintheclouds
Well-Known Member
I like the plan. I wanted to update without changing too much of the character. Have fitted a 4 speed lockup instead of 727 and now replacing Edelbrock Performer with Holley Sniper. Quite a decent upgrade without a crazy amount of work. It also keeps the insurer happy as it still has the original motor.
Cartierusm
Active Member
I haven't had a car painted since the 80s. Anyone know what good paint and bodywork cost, just a general guesstimate. I will give them a fully stripped body with everything removed. Body looks pretty good and straight, almost no rust (from talking with the seller) car should be delivered next week. I'll want them to dip or sand blast the car.
ah, i wondered who picked up that off of the CL... nice.
anyway, "good paint & body" is wildly subjective. anything from a production shop is gonna run probably 10K plus, and work from a top quality entity that's known for vintage work or higher end paint jobs is likely going to be double that or easily more.
dipping a car in CA is expensive, like 2K+ kinds of dough. blasting something is usually about half that.
anyway, "good paint & body" is wildly subjective. anything from a production shop is gonna run probably 10K plus, and work from a top quality entity that's known for vintage work or higher end paint jobs is likely going to be double that or easily more.
dipping a car in CA is expensive, like 2K+ kinds of dough. blasting something is usually about half that.
Cartierusm
Active Member
Are you stalking my car???? LOL
Yeah that's what I figured. Dam!!
My Spreadsheet is at $63k including the initial $14K and a $4500 Sound System. All my labor not including bodywork and re-foam of seats.
Now that's just cursory I still can save a ton by really searching for good used motor and stuff.
Yeah that's what I figured. Dam!!
My Spreadsheet is at $63k including the initial $14K and a $4500 Sound System. All my labor not including bodywork and re-foam of seats.
Now that's just cursory I still can save a ton by really searching for good used motor and stuff.
lolz, it's a pretty unique car so i recognized it straight away.
you're at 63 so let's say you don't go with full tilt show winning paint and call that 20 with a dip or blast work and plunk down another at least 2K on the interior. now you're 85, figure a 20(ish) percent overage and you hit 6 digits rapidly.
Cartierusm
Active Member
Yeah thanks for the math LOL.
My 63K includes everything, everything. 10K was accounted for body and paint.
My 63K includes everything, everything. 10K was accounted for body and paint.
Cartierusm
Active Member
If anyone is interested I can provide my spreadsheet.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Here's a suggestion for you if you are not in too big a rush to complete.
See if there is an Automotive Paint and body work /Restoration school in your area.
Your car looks like a prime candidate for this .
They will take a car to help in the instruction of new students.
The students are closely supervised and usually the instructors are top notch .
Locally, I've seen results that would be on par with the top shops in my area.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Want an exercise in reality??
Pick the color you want to paint your car with the correct manufacturers code and visit a paint supplier.
Count on at least 3 gallons.
Then, price up 2 gallons of primer, sand paper , correct masking tape, scuff pads, masking paper, tack cloths ,1 1/2 gallons of thinners, a gallon of reducer, measuring cups , paint strainers.
Once you have the wholesale price of just these items, add at least 25% for markup.
Then, make sure you are sat down.
That's your starting point before labor.
you can never account for everything, everything. that's where the the overages come in at.
so there's your 20%
you have a spreadsheet, so add 10% because you missed something
if you haven't built a car in the last 10 years add another 20% for the cost of doing business these days.
Cartierusm
Active Member
Yeah we used to do that back in the 80s as well. I did think about that.
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