mine are a better solution. look exactly like original but with new switch.
1969 Convertible top switch repair
- Thread starter bricud
- Start date
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How about some photos
i will asap
bradmancan
65 Valiant Wagon
Here is picture of window switch for tailgate window that's mounted on left side of dash in my 1965 Valiant Wagon. It's shot and dangling. Please advise on if I can buy one from you guys or send it in for repair? PN for Switch 2496921
Have found on ebay ranging from $200-400 as of 2025 for just switch portion, not inluding the mount portion that says "rear window".
It's a dang switch for petes sake. Any more affordable options?
Have found on ebay ranging from $200-400 as of 2025 for just switch portion, not inluding the mount portion that says "rear window".
It's a dang switch for petes sake. Any more affordable options?
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jbc426
Well-Known Member
I bought a relay set-up for my convertible top from Crackelback on this forum. It takes the higher amp load out of the switch and puts it through a relay. It's is a beautiful kit just like his headlight relays.
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i have an original that works or i can sell you a modern upgrade that looks exactly like the oem. either one for $175
bradmancan
65 Valiant Wagon
On the modern upgrade, could I screw my original face portion back on for mounting? Thanks!!
This is it
Does it have the proper D shape to the mounting threaded portion?
it doesnt. but it isn't necessary. the bezel with hold it in place. you cant wire it wrong by the switch placement. just put the up wire on top so when you toggle up it lifts the top. i have this on my car. works great. you can wire the circuit breaker also. hard to explain unless you've been there. i bought a new one for mine. this is an old toggle that i integrated to a new switch. the bezel is modified to allow the nut to be threaded. its not stock but performs perfect and you cant tell by looking at it. its a easy option for this problem but if you need to be stock then its not for you!
bradmancan
65 Valiant Wagon
One thing kind of interesting I found in replacing this switch on wagon and I used a new OEM stock switch . . .switch has markings for Up and Down. I installed as such and it was reversed. So, I think the UP/DOWN markings must be meant for convertibles. On wagon, install with the UP marking on bottom vs top . . .or backwards from what's logical --this gets switch working correctly with an up push bringing the back tailgate window up.
a swap of 2 wires would remedy that.
The S switch in this example is a 67-69 Convert TOP switch with the additional 30A cir breaker. Your switch might differ slightly.
The switch is a single pole double through momentary switch.
By depinning and swapping the Brown and Yellow wires, the switch function is effectively reversed
The center pin (common pin) gets 12V from the back side of the Alt Gauge which is feed to the center pin on the switch through the Cir breaker
Then depending on the switch position that 12V gets routed to the brown or yellow wire.
If the switch was ever apart it might have been reassembled backwards
The common pin should be on the side of the switch that has the UP B DN markings and / or the flat side of the stem
The switch gets mounted to the dash with the stem flat to the left
The plate with the tang fits in a hole in the dash that is above the stem hole
Depinning the connector
Preferably the proper tool but a small screwdriver will do. You might need to push down on the screwdriver slightly to depress the locking tab on the terminal
Terminal removed
Note the locking tab on the terminal
Before reinstalling the terminal bend the lock tab up a tad (Use CAUTION the tab can only be bent up and down so many times)
for sure it has been taken apart. i can see the tool marks on it from closing the tabs! i have disassembled many of these. some are fixable, some not. the ones i made use a new switch. i looked long and hard to find the ones that are momentary on. i bought 10 of them when i did. haven't seen another one in 10 years. i used old e-flasher switch for the tips. cut out and drilled then epoxied on the new switch to keep the oem look. the one in the picture was my 1st one i made. let's say prototype. i have sold 5 in the years and mine still works like a new switch. those tail bed switches are impossible to find as well. they are the same switch as the top switches minus the dash bezel. anyway great info, very informative for those who need the info!
66 and I suspect older converts use a similar switch. the body looks the same. the pinout is the same just no cir breaker tab. And the knob is larger in OD but the basic same shape. I figured that your procedure was such as you described
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