69DartMatt
Well-Known Member
And here's the good stuff that will be getting installed next....
If you don't mind me asking, what are your measurements on the rear and who did the work for you?
1969 Dart Street/Strip (Re)Build
- Thread starter clinteg
- Start date
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If you don't mind me asking, what are your measurements on the rear and who did the work for you?
Will do! I like to watch and re-live the moments myself lol.
I got the big 20 gallon cell because I do drive the car on the street mostly and it gets terrible mileage haha. I can go about 100 miles on a tank.
Every thing you'll need to know is in this thread. I bought it from Mad Dart.
67 Dart Build Triangulated 4 link & Mini Tub
69DartMatt
Well-Known Member
Thanks clintreg! Your car has came a long way and looks great! Some of the mods you have done I plan to do to mine also!
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
There's a narrowed 8 3/4 with the 4 link brackets on Pittsburgh Craigslist
03JeepJeep
It's a hoot!
Awesome build!
You guys know as well as anyone if you've followed this thread from the beginning that I'm always fighting some battle with the car. Couple nights so I found a small dab of oil under the car, again. I was about to go irate! I got under the car and the back of the oil pan was dry which was a good sign that it wasn't the rear main again. All the oil seemed to be coming off the bellhousing. The oil dye was still in the motor so I got my black light out and started searching. What I found was the driver's side rear pan bolt loosened up and was leaking.
The oil must have been coming out during the track runs, hitting the flexplate, and flinging the oil inside the bellhousing. Once it sat for a couple days, the oil collected at the bottom of the bell and dripped out. Tightened up the bolt but haven't driven it since. So that's probably fixed.
Then while I was under the car, my hand brushed across an edge of the the k frame and I heard the sound a piece of paper would make if you brushed your hand across the edge. Well it turned out to be more powdercoating that is peeling like burned skin. I've said it once and I'll say it again. Do not use PowderTech in Wichita, KS! They are horrible!
And finally, when I was getting ready to install the street tires, I noticed this.
That's the driver's side tire worn on the inside edge with belts showing (less than 1000 miles of wear). Passenger side is fine. So there are two scenarios in which this can happen. Either the housing is bent from the power of the car or from the welding of the 4 link mounts. That or MadDart who built this rear screwed up and got the end fitting crooked when he shortened the housing. Either way this a big kick in the nuts. The rear is already offset to the passenger side by about 1/4" and I have to use a spacer on the driver's side to make sure the tire won't rub the wheel well and frame. If the shop has to cut the end off and straighten it, then I'm going to make this situation a little worse because the housing will get shortened a bit more on that side. So the whole rear will have to come out and get jigged up to find out what's going on with it. What a cluster.
The oil must have been coming out during the track runs, hitting the flexplate, and flinging the oil inside the bellhousing. Once it sat for a couple days, the oil collected at the bottom of the bell and dripped out. Tightened up the bolt but haven't driven it since. So that's probably fixed.
Then while I was under the car, my hand brushed across an edge of the the k frame and I heard the sound a piece of paper would make if you brushed your hand across the edge. Well it turned out to be more powdercoating that is peeling like burned skin. I've said it once and I'll say it again. Do not use PowderTech in Wichita, KS! They are horrible!
And finally, when I was getting ready to install the street tires, I noticed this.
That's the driver's side tire worn on the inside edge with belts showing (less than 1000 miles of wear). Passenger side is fine. So there are two scenarios in which this can happen. Either the housing is bent from the power of the car or from the welding of the 4 link mounts. That or MadDart who built this rear screwed up and got the end fitting crooked when he shortened the housing. Either way this a big kick in the nuts. The rear is already offset to the passenger side by about 1/4" and I have to use a spacer on the driver's side to make sure the tire won't rub the wheel well and frame. If the shop has to cut the end off and straighten it, then I'm going to make this situation a little worse because the housing will get shortened a bit more on that side. So the whole rear will have to come out and get jigged up to find out what's going on with it. What a cluster.
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txstang84
Well-Known Member
ehh, tires? I don't see no tires...going through them does suck though.
Check it again. For some reason the site was adding extra pictures to the end of the post and I had to redo it all.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Ah-there it is. Weird.
Anyway; are you running a spool or clutch type LS/SG unit? Does your car track straight or does it try to "push"? It seems to me that if one wheel was worn that bad and the other side is significantly less worn, you should notice the manifestation in other ways...especially around corners or when you were under heavy acceleration.
I've driven a car with a bent axle housing before...it was nearly imperceptible to the eye, but the cornering and heavy acceleration was...exciting...in a bad way...made you feel like you were trying to drive into the guardrail or off the road.
Anyway; are you running a spool or clutch type LS/SG unit? Does your car track straight or does it try to "push"? It seems to me that if one wheel was worn that bad and the other side is significantly less worn, you should notice the manifestation in other ways...especially around corners or when you were under heavy acceleration.
I've driven a car with a bent axle housing before...it was nearly imperceptible to the eye, but the cornering and heavy acceleration was...exciting...in a bad way...made you feel like you were trying to drive into the guardrail or off the road.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
If it is indeed out of alignment, a quick trip to the rack should be able to detect it...
I run a spool in it. Tracks perfectly straight under acceleration, cruise, and braking. I had it checked before and alignment was supposedly good. I checked the wheels with a level and the driver's side appears to be cambered in at the top compared to the passenger side.
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Dang it...well that sucks man
I watched the NASCAR guys in the pits/garage area adjust camber at Bristol back in the 90's. Apparently, they learned additional camber in the rear was a plus, but because it was causing axles and rears to fail, Nascar put a limit on it. Some with too much were forced to adjust before they hit the track. With the rear in the car, they heated one side of the outside axle tube cherry red...then quickly cooled it with ice cold (HOLIDAY INN ) towels to draw the it within rules .
I was amazed at how quick the fix was.....those boys did not screw around.
I was amazed at how quick the fix was.....those boys did not screw around.
That's pretty wild! Hadn't heard of that before!
I can't seem to get ahead. I had a friend over and we were looking at the rear tires running on jack stands. There was an obvious wobbling issue as can seen in the video. It appeared that the wheel is not centered on the axle. You can barely see the center opening around the axle also has the off center wobble. So he asks if the lug nuts are tight on the shanks? I check and no they aren't. They are tight on my weld wheels and the wheels turn true. But the street wheels have a bad wobble and the shanks are loose. I call Billet Specialties and they claim to have never heard of this problem before. So now I'm understanding some of the shaking and grab-slip-grab-slip-grab-slip problems I've felt launching at the track with the radials. So BS didn't have an answer for me and I'm on my own now to figure this out. I'm going to try and find a thicker set of mag nuts first.
03JeepJeep
It's a hoot!
Need bigger lug bolts?
I know of a few Jeep guys that have ran into that.
Check the bolt hole size on the rim and on the old ones. Might need a different lug nut or bolts.
I know of a few Jeep guys that have ran into that.
Check the bolt hole size on the rim and on the old ones. Might need a different lug nut or bolts.
383Duster
Well-Known Member
Your dedication to this car / project is impressive... Keep at it.
That's what I'm going to try. Ordered Billet Specialties lugs nuts which are .685 diameter. Mine currently measure .670.
Raced Mopars at the Park over the weekend and managed a 10.55 off the trailer and that was my best of the day. I believe it would have been better had I made that run with it tuned like I did later but the track got worse as the day went on. Engine doesn't seem to like 35/36 degrees timing either. About 34 degrees is the sweet spot that I've found. I tried no air filter and it slowed the car down over 1 mph and lost .05 on my ET. Put it back on and pulled some timing out and gained 2 mph . Very interesting.
Made it through 3 rounds of eliminations, lost in the 4th and pulled my mulligan card to get in the 5th round and was eliminated then. It was those last two passes when I realized how much reaction time is important.
Made it through 3 rounds of eliminations, lost in the 4th and pulled my mulligan card to get in the 5th round and was eliminated then. It was those last two passes when I realized how much reaction time is important.
69DartMatt
Well-Known Member
Nice! Did you win against the Drag Pak Challenger? Looks like your smoking him!
He was a 9 second car. Was behind me there because we were bracket racing and he started a second later. I did beat him twice in a row in the bracket!
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