1969 Valiant, 340...TCI 727...8 3/4 w/3.55

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Backtobasics

Backtobasics

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This belongs to my best friend.
He has it on the KC craigslist, looking to sell, to buy a pontoon boat, to spend more time with family. Car is located in KC. I copied and pasted his craigslist ad....I can answer any questions....

I will have better pictures tonight, if weather permits.

For Sale
1969 Plymouth Valiant
Engine: 1972 dated 340
Induction: Holley 750CFM, Air Gap Intake manifold
Cylinder Heads: 340 with 2.02 intake valves, bowl blend, mild porting
Ignition: MSD Billet Distributor, Mallory ignition box, Nology Coil
Camshaft: Mopar Purple Shaft 509 lift 292 duration hydraulic lifter
Exhaust: Hedman headers, black, true dual exhaust, Flowmaster knock-off
mufflers, dump at rear axle
Power Adder: NOS Sniper nitrous system that is plumbed, and wired, but has never been used, bottle is mounted, in trunk, empty.
Cooling: 4 Core Griffin aluminum radiator, with overflow.
Charging: One wire Powermaster alternator, and battery is in truck in box. NHRA approved cutoff switch on bumper, passenger rear
Line Lock is wired, plumbed, and functional
Fuel system: Fuel cell mounted, in spare tire wheel well, aluminum line to fuel filter, along driver side frame rail, and Holley blue pump. 1/2 alum fuel line to Holley fuel pressure regulator in engine compartment.

Drivetrain: TCI brand 727 TORQUEFLITE transmission
Rear axle: 8 3/4 with 3.55 gears, and Lock-Rite street locker, NEW driveshaft and U joints
Suspension: 3 way adjustable Comp Engineering shocks, front and rear, with Mopar Performance adjustable pinion snubber, NEW rear leaf springs Wheels: 14" Cragar on all 4 corners, with modern Radial tires on all 4 corners
Interior: black vinyl flooring
All Stewart Warner Gauges, in gauge pod
Electrical Panel, with flip switches for electric fan, ignition, and fuel pump. Push Button start.
B&M Quick Silver shifter

No rust. Car was repainted by previous owner. It presents well, but is not perfect. There are some sanding and swirl marks, and some overspray. It could be bettered with some TLC but is not perfect.

NOW FOR WHAT IT NEEDS:
The torque converter that was installed by the previous owner is the wrong converter, it is not weighted properly. Subsequently, the car has a vibration. This needs to be fixed, (either anther converter, OR the proper weights tack welded to this converter, TCI offers the weights that can be welded to a neutral balanced coverter)
Front seats. I have a pair of tan bucket seats. I have a single racing seat, with harness. The rear seat is in place. Dash is cracked. Headliner is excellent.

I am looking to sell outright, or trade for an equal value Pontoon Boat, so I can enjoy with the family. BETTER PICTURES WILL BE AVAILABLE MONDAY NIGHT (July 28th) Bob
Cell # 913-624-4187 (I cannot always answer cell, leave message, or shoot me a text.
Email melissa_borsella (at) yahoo (dot) com.

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Backtobasics said:
This belongs to my best friend.
He has it on the KC craigslist, looking to sell, to buy a pontoon boat, to spend more time with family. Car is located in KC. I copied and pasted his craigslist ad....I can answer any questions....

I will have better pictures tonight, if weather permits.

For Sale
1969 Plymouth Valiant
Engine: 1972 dated 340
Induction: Holley 750CFM, Air Gap Intake manifold
Cylinder Heads: 340 with 2.02 intake valves, bowl blend, mild porting
Ignition: MSD Billet Distributor, Mallory ignition box, Nology Coil
Camshaft: Mopar Purple Shaft 509 lift 292 duration hydraulic lifter
Exhaust: Hedman headers, black, true dual exhaust, Flowmaster knock-off
mufflers, dump at rear axle
Power Adder: NOS Sniper nitrous system that is plumbed, and wired, but has never been used, bottle is mounted, in trunk, empty.
Cooling: 4 Core Griffin aluminum radiator, with overflow.
Charging: One wire Powermaster alternator, and battery is in truck in box. NHRA approved cutoff switch on bumper, passenger rear
Line Lock is wired, plumbed, and functional
Fuel system: Fuel cell mounted, in spare tire wheel well, aluminum line to fuel filter, along driver side frame rail, and Holley blue pump. 1/2 alum fuel line to Holley fuel pressure regulator in engine compartment.

Drivetrain: TCI brand 727 TORQUEFLITE transmission
Rear axle: 8 3/4 with 3.55 gears, and Lock-Rite street locker, NEW driveshaft and U joints
Suspension: 3 way adjustable Comp Engineering shocks, front and rear, with Mopar Performance adjustable pinion snubber, NEW rear leaf springs Wheels: 14" Cragar on all 4 corners, with modern Radial tires on all 4 corners
Interior: black vinyl flooring
All Stewart Warner Gauges, in gauge pod
Electrical Panel, with flip switches for electric fan, ignition, and fuel pump. Push Button start.
B&M Quick Silver shifter

No rust. Car was repainted by previous owner. It presents well, but is not perfect. There are some sanding and swirl marks, and some overspray. It could be bettered with some TLC but is not perfect.

NOW FOR WHAT IT NEEDS:
The torque converter that was installed by the previous owner is the wrong converter, it is not weighted properly. Subsequently, the car has a vibration. This needs to be fixed, (either anther converter, OR the proper weights tack welded to this converter, TCI offers the weights that can be welded to a neutral balanced coverter)
Front seats. I have a pair of tan bucket seats. I have a single racing seat, with harness. The rear seat is in place. Dash is cracked. Headliner is excellent.

I am looking to sell outright, or trade for an equal value Pontoon Boat, so I can enjoy with the family. BETTER PICTURES WILL BE AVAILABLE MONDAY NIGHT (July 28th) Bob
Cell # 913-624-4187 (I cannot always answer cell, leave message, or shoot me a text.
Email melissa_borsella (at) yahoo (dot) com.

01010001040501161420080726f6bdd6a04d768bf8d000908a.jpg


010100011503011605200807261c6248972c632a489e002128.jpg


01150201160701040920080726ed0f7919ffe112ad53009b37.jpg
Click to expand...

If its a 72 340 then it should be an internally balanced engine therefore no weights at all on the converter.
 
If its a 72 340 then it should be an internally balanced engine therefore no weights at all on the converter.

good call!
 
I was under the impression that it was a 72 but I could be wrong.
Ultimately, it has a vibration, that was not cured with the a new center section, new driveshaft, tire balance etc. We are pretty much resigned to a torque converter, or balancer issue. The converter was in when bought, so we have not validated the weights or not.

He is asking 10K
 
1972 manual equiped 340's were internally balanced but the 72 automatic cars were phased in with the externally balanced engines then all became externally balanced in 73
Quick look at crankshaft dampner tells the story. If dampener has offset lobe on back it is external,if smooth on back it is internally balanced.

Oldschoolcuda
 
lol 10 k for a fucked up vibration and little 509 cam..stock headed 340....lol...try 5k then well talk....

nasty nate​
 
I think oldschoolcuda is correct, I have a 72 demon that has a vibration in it. I purchased it from original owner who tells me he broke the crank years ago and it was replaced under warranty by the dealer after that it has had the vibration every since but they refused to repair it. So thanks for the info that way I may be able to correct my problem also.
 
bignasty123 said:
lol 10 k for a fucked up vibration and little 509 cam..stock headed 340....lol...try 5k then well talk....​



nasty nate​
Click to expand...

Lil Nasty...
:thebirdm:

It is %^&holes like you that taint what would be an otherwise perfect communty of mopar enthusiasts.

You want offer 5K, then step up. I doubt you have 2 nickels to rub together, but hey, you could be Jay Leno, but I doubt that, since he undoubtedly has more class and tact.

It is a rust free Valiant, with a 340 & 727 and 8 3/4. The quality of the parts alone justifies the ASKING PRICE.
 
Backtobasics, Somebody is always looking for something for nothing. If someone finds what they are looking for they will pay the money. I looked for 2.5 years for what I wanted and paid the man.

I agree with you!
 
bignasty123 said:
lol 10 k for a fucked up vibration and little 509 cam..stock headed 340....lol...try 5k then well talk....

nasty nate​
Click to expand...

I look forward to blocking your future posts. Asking price is only a place to start. No need for ugliness.
 
ok...lol.....im a man ill say sorry cuz a man that is wrong should say so..i was raised right but in MY OPINION>>>i wouldnt pay 10 k for something that doisent eeven run smooth..that vibration could cost thousands to fix no one person can tell u what it is trial and error so lowvalling is good due to the car no running in pristen condition....and i do have money now but i build all my own **** and i was raied withj no money so ...my too cents
 
bignasty123 said:
ok...lol.....im a man ill say sorry cuz a man that is wrong should say so..i was raised right but in MY OPINION>>>i wouldnt pay 10 k for something that doisent eeven run smooth..that vibration could cost thousands to fix no one person can tell u what it is trial and error so lowvalling is good due to the car no running in pristen condition....and i do have money now but i build all my own **** and i was raied withj no money so ...my too cents
Click to expand...

Impressive.

I respect your opinion.

My opinion is the vibration is either torque converter or balancer.
I definately lean towards that because the car idles great. The cam lopes, but the engine is smooth. The vibration shows around 40 MPH. We have had a new driveshaft built (old was out of balance, VERY SLIGHTLY). We have added a newer center section (was 3.91 but the center pin wallowed out. We added a Lock Rite to a 3.55 that was in good condition. We balanced all 4 tires.
Next up, is to swap out the axles, in case one is bent, and try a different set of tires. We are taking all the steps to try to eliminate the problem.

IF anyone has another ideas, we would love to hear it. I am dying to tkae this down the strip, but until this problem is solved there is no way I am running it up to a hundred MPH.

A buyer could negotiate a better price, fix the issue, and have a very presentable A body, with good parts, for less the the cost to build, In My Opinion.

Good luck with your Duster sale.
 
The vibration is because of the pinion angle and trans are not in proper alignment. I'll bet a 12pac of Stella that it's off. My 68 had the same problem after I lowered the rear end with new springs. At first I thought the trans mount (727) was too tall.

I then discovered the pinion angle was off by 3-4 degrees.

Remedy degree shims for the rear to correct pinion angle. Shims can be had at any 4 wheel drive repair shop.

Send the beer to my work...
 
bro i just type without looking thats all i m in a hurry most of the time..and i have a degree in kinesology byt the way..........
 
and the proper way waould be in the PAST wasnt offerd to me in school.....fuckin fag...ill drive all the way to your towm just to own ur *** ***** dont insult i appoliged to this guy so **** off ***** my zipp is 92557 ill fly u out to beat ur *** **** head
 
bignasty123 said:
and the proper way waould be in the PAST wasnt offerd to me in school.....fuckin fag...ill drive all the way to your towm just to own ur *** ***** dont insult i appoliged to this guy so **** off ***** my zipp is 92557 ill fly u out to beat ur *** **** head
Click to expand...

This is not the way we talk to each other. We welcome new members to this site, but not if your going to post like this. This site is viewed by kids, and I don't like it either.
 
Enough​

HE apologized. I accepted. Let's move forward and discuss the car, or sell it.


Big...we are cool. However, I will respectfully and suggest that you leave the bad language out of it. It is not welcomed here, and it is not a great way to add credibility to your posts and ID here.

Just a suggestion....
 
And reading down thru the posts I was fixing to commend you for being a stand up guy for apoligizing. I am willing to forget whats done but please like was said keep it clean for our next generation of mopar fanatics.
 
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