1970 DUSTER 440 4spd 8 3/4 posi

-
mrtires24

mrtires24

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Messages
1,390
Reaction score
12
Location
Maple Ridge
I am building this car so that it is done for My wedding on July 19th 2008!!!!

This is not a Resto. I don't want to call it that, but I am building it up from a shell. Here is the deal....

car: 1970 duster. Originally a /6 with Manula 3 spd on the floor.

Car Condition: I bought it as a rolling shell with No engine, No Tranny, No interior ( it had one door pannel, head liner, dash, and one riped up dack seat just thrown in it. It has some rust bubbles on the lower 1/4's. Floor boards are solid, No Gear set for the 8 3/4 and no backing plates

The car came with: Frame conectore allready welded in, a pair of Brand new Chrome under chassi headers, A 440 that you could eat off of. but condition was unknown. Engine included, torker 2 intake, Mopar chrome valve covers, shumacker converdion mounts, and adjustable crane rockers less push rods. 8 3/4 Rear end that was from something else. It was cut and narrowed 3 inches on each side!!!! but the wheel base is no different then the front wheels. go figure. Drag race adjustable leaf spring mounts rear shackls where cut out, and new performance shackle mounts out in place ( narrowed at the back). Drag race leaf springs, drag race torsion bars.

here are some pics of the car from the sellers house.









This is the car Being brought home
dartparts013.jpg


I have Completed the interior, and have been working on the rest ove the car too, I will take pics and post them soon.

PS how much do you think a fair price for the car would have been for it in the condition above, with all those parts? I'm not planning to sell it, I just want to have an idea of what anyone else might think.

this will be a fun car :burnout:
 
Does anyone have a 130 tooth fly wheel.
& OR
a 10.5 inch bellhousing? casting Numbers 2468370, 2468372, or 2892513

PLEASE!!!!! I am at a stalemate, I can't do any more work on the car till I get these!!!! HELP
 
Ok,

So I have a question...

I have had some people tell me to switch the center link from a v8 car, and to take my slant 6 center link out and put the v8 one in. I have a v8 k member, and I have been comparing the center links. They both look relativly the same, but the stearing arm and the pitman arm ar completely different.

Will I be able to take off the stearing arm ( the one that goes from the stearing box to the center link) and the pitman arm from my 1973 K member, and will it fit onto my 1970 k member??????

also is the spline count the same from the stearing box of a power stearing 1973 to a manual stearing box?1970 something.?

HELP ME PLEASE.

and thanks ahead of time.

Phil
 
the 73 steering box was a large sector shaft box. therefore, the 73 pitman PROBABLY wont fit the 70 box. no gaurentee though. i am running the 73 steering on my 70 kframe with no problems whatsoever. large sector box, 73 pinman, idler, and centerlink. the main difference IIRC is that the V8 centerlink ahs more of a drop than the /6.
best you can do on the pitman is to just try it. you may get lucky.
hope that helps.

michael
 
The breaks run '63-'66, '67, '68-'72, and '73-'76.
'63-'66 used a different center link for /6s and V8s. Also had the small sector steering box. '68-'72 used the small sector steering box as well and the same center link for /6s or V8s. The '67 used its own idler arm so I put it in its own category. Every thing else was the same as '68-'72. '73-'76 used the large sector steering box and linkage was the same whether /6 or V8. I think the pitman arm was different for power or manual steering in those years. NAPA has a different part number for each application.
Good rule of thumb, use the same year span linkage as the year of your steering box. The center link swap is only needed if you are dealing with a '63-'66. In 1976 I dropped a 440 into a '76 Feather Duster with no steering changes and no clearance problems. Still a nose heavy pig though. Just make sure the oil pan has the notch for idler arm clearance.
Hope this helps.
 
grumpuscreature said:
The breaks run '63-'66, '67, '68-'72, and '73-'76.
'63-'66 used a different center link for /6s and V8s. Also had the small sector steering box. '68-'72 used the small sector steering box as well and the same center link for /6s or V8s. The '67 used its own idler arm so I put it in its own category. Every thing else was the same as '68-'72. '73-'76 used the large sector steering box and linkage was the same whether /6 or V8. I think the pitman arm was different for power or manual steering in those years. NAPA has a different part number for each application.
Good rule of thumb, use the same year span linkage as the year of your steering box. The center link swap is only needed if you are dealing with a '63-'66. In 1976 I dropped a 440 into a '76 Feather Duster with no steering changes and no clearance problems. Still a nose heavy pig though. Just make sure the oil pan has the notch for idler arm clearance.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

This does help I think. after I posted the original message I whent out to the shop and started removing a spare stearing linkage from a v8 K frame that i had, then I removed the linkage from my car, and I tried to install it.

The difference between the linkage is this...

On the 1970 /6 linkage the center link was on top of the idler and pitman arm.

On the 1973 V8 linkage, the center link was below the idler, and pitman arms.

So what you are saying is that I should be ok with the /6 linkage because it was all the same in 1970.

I think this is true because I have hade the engine in about 4 times, and it only hits the nuckle when you turn the stearing wheel all the way to the right. The oil pan I have is a very deep one in the center, but it has no notch on the side. Would I be able to heat it up and bend it in a bit?

I know that wouldn't be recomended, but I really am trying to keep this a bidget build. I still have the wedding to pay for right.

Phil
 
The difference between the linkage is this...



Oh yeah, the V8 power stearing arm wont mount the 1970 manual stearing.

FYI
 
Ok so hear is the deal...

first off, this forum Rocks!!!

I have figured out that I can use my /6 stearing linkage in the car. The only thing that hits the oil pan is the passanger side stearing nuckle. And it ONLY HITS THE Stearing nuckle when you turn the stearing wheel all the way to the right. The oil pan that I have is an aftermarket Chrome one.

The Oil pan Does NOT have that notch in it for the stearing nuckel. Thats why it hits the pan, not because it is a /6 stearing linkage.

I don't want to use this oil pan, So if anyone has one that will work...I will buy it if the price is right. Remember I am poor because of my wedding and building this :( ( I'm not sad for the hanging...I meen wedding. I am sad about no money)

If I can't get an oil pan in time, I will heat up the oil pan that I have and Hit it in a bit with a hammer. I know, I know, its not the best idea. but It has been done B4, and it will do the job for now.

As far as my Bell Housing Search.... I have been able to find one that I think will work. I am just waiting to hear back from the Brewers Performance experts. Who, by the way...I highly recomend.

So if all goes well i can start to put the engine in the car with the tranny in about 1 to 2 weeks !!!! yay

I will be adding some Current pics of the car today. Right after I send this message.

thanks for all your help guys, and keep it coming!!!!

Phil

PS, I will definatly post pics of myself and my bride, with the car on the big day...if I can finish it in time!!!!!
 
Here is my shop. Excuse the mess
Duster003.jpg




This is the engine bay.
Duster005.jpg


Here is the interior all installed. with receipts and some parts in the shot too.
Duster006.jpg

Duster007.jpg


Here are the front Disc brake conversion
Duster008.jpg


Here are the back brakes. Not no Center section installed. But I do have it.
as well as big bolt axles to match the big bolt discs
Duster010.jpg


and just one last shot of it.

Duster009.jpg



Doe anyone reconize this car????? it came from Sumner Washington. I was told some well known dodge guy down their did alot of work to it befor I got it. ANYONE KNOW THE HISTORY?
 
with a motor plate center link is not an issue , using the 6 center link will hit the link hard if using mounts and a 440 . with the v-8 link you only have 1/4 inch clearance max. the 8 link drops over an inch so how in the heck will this fit with mounts? a plate, yes ,as the plate allows the engine to sit higher in the frame and still clears bellhousing hump, and the slant 6 link, your ride felt so heavy cause the link was hitting pan heavily grump, heh,let the guys know if the slant 6 link hits as im quite sure it will. maybe im not doing something right......regards
 
grump if money talks I got 20 bux that says the 73 slant 6 center links are different from the v-8 links
 
mrtires24 said:
Here is my shop. Excuse the mess
Duster007.jpg


I recognize Lordco receipts!! For part part specific pieces (weather stripping, etc) you probably already know about Gasoline Alley? They can sell you the Paddock/Year One stuff at least at the same $US price w/o the shipping/duty etc.
Click to expand...
 
if u use headers make sure ya leave the tube that runs next to starter unwelded ,have it flanged so you can remove the starter, and good luck with the headers ,regards
 
mopar1962 said:
with a motor plate center link is not an issue , using the 6 center link will hit the link hard if using mounts and a 440 . with the v-8 link you only have 1/4 inch clearance max. the 8 link drops over an inch so how in the heck will this fit with mounts? a plate, yes ,as the plate allows the engine to sit higher in the frame and still clears bellhousing hump, and the slant 6 link, your ride felt so heavy cause the link was hitting pan heavily grump, heh,let the guys know if the slant 6 link hits as im quite sure it will. maybe im not doing something right......regards
Click to expand...

Ok So here is the deal.
One the center link of the /6 the ball joints from the idler arm and the piman arm go UP with the center link sitting on top.

On the V8 Center link the ball joints on the idler arm and the pitman arm go DOWN. and the center link sits below them.

The idler arm and pitman arms ar completely different when you compare the ones for the v8 to the /6

The Tie rods are different too. on the slant 6 they are 90 degrees, where as the V8 they ar horizontal.

I HAVE HAD THE ENGINE in allready a hole bunch of times. and the stearing Nuckle only hits the pan when you turn it all the way to the right.


I don't have $$$ to buy all new things. What do I HAVE allready, that will work???
I can send pics of what I am talking about above. just ask.

I don't want to put the engine in and have problems.....

DOES ANYONE HAVE A PROPER OIL PAN FOR THIS!?!?!?!

thanks guys
 
whats the distance from pan to c link? try it again with the transmission installed.
 
I have 2 73 center links and they are different the 8 drops an inch the 6 is almost straight, good luck
 
mopar1962 said:
whats the distance from pan to c link? try it again with the transmission installed.
Click to expand...

I can't do it with the tranny installed because I don't have the bell housing yet.

I did have a 12 inch bellhousing that I was going to use But I found out that it is too big, so I sold it. But while I had it I was able to put it in with the tranny, and like I said above. it only hit when completely trurned to the right.

SOME PEOPLE ARE TELLING ME TO TAKE THE /6 CENTERLINK OUT....SOME ARE TELLING ME TO LEAVE IT IN.... WHAT DO I DO?????

Like I have said earlier, my oil pan does NOT have the notch in it. So I think that is why it hits.

Phil
 
I have bought a proper oil pan for the 440 to go in my duster.

I am going to try putting the engine in the car with the new pan and the 1970 /6 stearing linkage. then I will give you all an update on fow it fits.

I have figured out that I can use a 318 130 tooth flywheel for my 440. I have a forged steal crank in the car. and because all 318 engines are internally balanced, this flywheel should work. It bolts on perfectly, I am going to geet it re-serfaced, than make sure it is 100% neutral balanced.

I will need to purchase a new balancer for the engine. anyone have one?

I will also need a RAD and a Carb in the near future. anyone know a good place to get one? also what size carb should I get?
 
One more part that I do need is a clutch fork for a Big block Bell housing casting # 2892513. 10.5 inch.

I have found out that a 10 7/8 overall length fork is what I need. and that it came out of a 1966-up B/E body, 1967-1069 A body big block, 1970 -74 E body 1971-74 B body small/big block

I don't have a part number for the fork, so If you have the Number, or the fork, and you want to sell it.....
PLEASE LET ME KNOW :icon_smi:

I will also need a carb for the engine. Any input on what size?

I will also need a rad.

anyone know a good palce to get these?

Phil
 
Here's some information that's been discussed and verified a bazillion times on Moparts.com. Since I was new to A-bodys, I researched it myself by looking at about 45 Plymouth and Dodge A-bodys in junkyards (both V8 & six) and cross-referencing many part numbers from factory parts catalogs.

73-76 center links are all the same regardless of engine. They appear to be very straight across. The pitman/idler arms enter from the top. I've personally compared the center links from many cars with both V8 and /6 and they are the exact same unit. Also, my '76 parts catalog only shows one number for all engines.

70-72 center links are all the same regardless of engine. The pitman/idler arms enter from the bottom. The links appears to have about a 1" drop. I've personally compared the center links from both V8 and /6 cars and they are the exact same unit.

I cannot comment on anything earlier than 1970, because I've not personally seen any.

You cannot properly install a 70-72 link onto 73-76 pitman/idler arms because the taper in the link's holes and the taper on the arm's studs will be opposite each other. This also applies to installing a 73-76 link onto 70-72 idler/pitman arms. You can't mix & match parts.

It's also my understanding though owners of earlier cars that the only A-bodys that have a V8 center link and a /6 center link are very early cars (64-65, I think). I've never really seen anything older than 1970, so I cannot verifiy that.

I've personally crawled under way too many 70+ cars to disbelieve anything I've cited above.

Word to the wise: Don't buy anything labled as a "V8 center link" unless you have a very early 60's A-body. Why? There's no such thing - they all work with a V8 as long as they are used with the corresponding generation's suspension components.
 
Dusteriffic said:
Here's some information that's been discussed and verified a bazillion times on Moparts.com. Since I was new to A-bodys, I researched it myself by looking at about 45 Plymouth and Dodge A-bodys in junkyards (both V8 & six) and cross-referencing many part numbers from factory parts catalogs.

73-76 center links are all the same regardless of engine. They appear to be very straight across. The pitman/idler arms enter from the top. I've personally compared the center links from many cars with both V8 and /6 and they are the exact same unit. Also, my '76 parts catalog only shows one number for all engines.

70-72 center links are all the same regardless of engine. The pitman/idler arms enter from the bottom. The links appears to have about a 1" drop. I've personally compared the center links from both V8 and /6 cars and they are the exact same unit.

I cannot comment on anything earlier than 1970, because I've not personally seen any.

You cannot properly install a 70-72 link onto 73-76 pitman/idler arms because the taper in the link's holes and the taper on the arm's studs will be opposite each other. This also applies to installing a 73-76 link onto 70-72 idler/pitman arms. You can't mix & match parts.

It's also my understanding though owners of earlier cars that the only A-bodys that have a V8 center link and a /6 center link are very early cars (64-65, I think). I've never really seen anything older than 1970, so I cannot verifiy that.

I've personally crawled under way too many 70+ cars to disbelieve anything I've cited above.

Word to the wise: Don't buy anything labled as a "V8 center link" unless you have a very early 60's A-body. Why? There's no such thing - they all work with a V8 as long as they are used with the corresponding generation's suspension components.
Click to expand...

thanks
Thats Pretty much what Grump said. He says that /6 and v8 links on 1969 and earlier cars DO HAVE DIFFERENT center links. FYI

DOES ANYONE HAVE THE CLUTCH FORK I HAVE REQUESTED???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top