1971 ( 340 ) Block & Crank obtained !

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RustyRatRod said:
I have used brake cylinder dingleberry hones with really good success on lifter bores.
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And I bet a lot better than a 3 stone brake cylinder hone, at least the ones with the stones on center pivots. I've observed that a brake cylinder hone's stones will want to tip a bit at an angle as they pop out past the edges of any bore, and that will hone the top and bottom of the bores a tad more than the center. OK for a brake cylinder.... not for a lifter bore; that needs to be kept straight and true.

It might be nice to find an old style hone with the stones fixed in a cylinder, if they are made that small. I hope some of the experienced machinists chime in here.
 
nm9stheham said:
And I bet a lot better than a 3 stone brake cylinder hone, at least the ones with the stones on center pivots. I've observed that a brake cylinder hone's stones will want to tip a bit at an angle as they pop out past the edges of any bore, and that will hone the top and bottom of the bores a tad more than the center. OK for a brake cylinder.... not for a lifter bore; that needs to be kept straight and true.

It might be nice to find an old style hone with the stones fixed in a cylinder, if they are made that small. I hope some of the experienced machinists chime in here.
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You have to over stroke any hole you are honing. If you don't, they get wide in the middle and tight at the top and bottom.

For what the OP is doing, he needs the dingle berry style brush rather than a rigid hone. He just needs to make sure the lifters can rotate in the bore.

Hopefully the OP is tubing both blocks. There is no reason not to do it.
 
1Badcolt said:
Rusty Rat Rod - what do u not know about ???
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A crap ton of stuff. What I know will fit on the head of a pin with miles to spare.



1Badcolt said:
U tha Man
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Thanks, but there are LOTS of people here that WAY eclipse me with knowledge. I think we all add a little piece to the puzzle that makes this forum so good.
 
yellow rose said:
You have to over stroke any hole you are honing. If you don't, they get wide in the middle and tight at the top and bottom.

For what the OP is doing, he needs the dingle berry style brush rather than a rigid hone. He just needs to make sure the lifters can rotate in the bore.

Hopefully the OP is tubing both blocks. There is no reason not to do it.
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Right. That's why I really like the old school dingleberry hones. They really have their place. I just cleaned up two 396 blocks that weren't as rusty as the OP's 340, but they were on the way. They both cleaned up good enough to use as is and standard, but one was cracked in three places. The other I am building.
 
I would probably sonic check that crusty block to see if there will be enough cylinder wall to even use it at 60 over. That is far from a given for a 340 block.
Agree about the lifter bores. That will lkely be leak city without bushings.
 
B3422w5 said:
I would probably sonic check that crusty block to see if there will be enough cylinder wall to even use it at 60 over. That is far from a given for a 340 block.
Agree about the lifter bores. That will lkely be leak city without bushings.
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Ten 4 getting it checked for cracks and baked and cleaned at machine shop
 
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