1971 Challenger 383 big block

[Packard]

I have found another Dodge I'm interested in about 2 hrs from me. 1971 Dodge Challenger hardtop 383 big block. Factory power windows, factory AC, auto, Mopar Rallye wheels.

What do I need to look for to know if it's factory original or not?

Asking price is $26500

 

[WRB426]

Fender tag, build sheet. VIN numbers on body (radiator support).

 

[nothingbutdarts]

Fender tag, build sheet. VIN numbers on body (radiator support).

x2

 

[cuda65vpt]

Looks much better than that first one you found.
Like those guys said, it's all in the numbers. Get the VIN and check it against the paperwork and the rest of the car.

 

[RzeroB]

Fender tag, build sheet. VIN numbers on body (radiator support).

VINs stampings on E-bodies are found in two places besides the obvious VIN tag, door sticker and fender tag. They are also found on the aforementioned radiator support on the battery side and on the horizontal surface of the firewall cowl above the master cylinder and to the left of the fresh air inlet screen. E-bodies don't have the VIN on the trunk pinch weld seam beneath the weatherstripping like A and B bodies do.

I don't see any R/T markings on it although it does have the J54 sports hood and V21 hood black out treatment on it. Easy way to tell if it is an R/T or not is with the second digit of the VIN - if it is an S (as in JS...) the car is an R/T; and if it is an H (JH...) then the car is base Challenger (which is still very cool).

 

[Packard]

What about the asking price?

 

[WildCat]

What about the asking price?

Friend sold his 71 383 Challenger that was triple black and I thought a steal at 16,500 then sold again for in the mid 20s and heard it is now for sale for low 30s so it seems the price on that one isn't out of line for an E Body.

Make sure it isn't a rust bucket. They rusted bad, my 72 had rust in the 1/4s in 1978 when I got it and by the time I got rid of it thought it was too far gone to redo. The guy that bought it did a paint job on it and I'm sure someone got a good looking car for a few years but the rust in a pillars, radiator support and firewall were probably not fixed. Needed frame rails, wheel house 1/4s. Good thing I had some rust free parts he got with the car.

71 is my least favorite challenger, but that is a good looking one.

 

[kt340sport]

I know of a 73 Challenger local here, person bought it new in 73 and still has it today .He never drove it for a number of years , they decided few years back they would put it on the road , after looking it over well they found it was rusted bad at at the door hinges .So they put it on trailer parked it beside his garage , not going to fix it and will not sell it .It is a n H code 340 also A5 silver and black interior.

 

[Packard]

Seller just sent me a text saying he would send VIN info but don't have fender tag. He said the car is a factory 383 magnum car? What do you guy's think? Need more info probably?

 

[krazykuda]

Seller just sent me a text saying he would send VIN info but don't have fender tag. He said the car is a factory 383 magnum car? What do you guy's think? Need more info probably?

No fender tag, decreases the value. It's part of the documentation for the car. Does he have a build sheet?


Here's some pictures of the 71 Challenger convertible that I bought a few years ago. Only 2,165 made that year.

View attachment Chall ftlt 1_crop.jpg

View attachment Chall ftrt 2_crop.jpg

View attachment Chall rear 2_crop.jpg

View attachment Chall rear 1_crop.jpg

View attachment Chall front_crop.jpg

View attachment Chall back 1_crop.jpg

 

[RzeroB]

What do I need to look for to know if it's factory original or not? Asking price is $26500

What about the asking price?

Seller just sent me a text saying he would send VIN info but don't have fender tag. He said the car is a factory 383 magnum car? What do you guy's think? Need more info probably?

Some form of documentation is vital to determining how much of the car is original or not. Without the fender tag or build sheet you only have the VIN and that will only tell you a couple of things. As I mentioned before, if the VIN starts with JH... then it is a base Challenger and typically is not worth as much as an R/T which would have the VIN start with JS... and command a higher price.

Another thing the VIN will tell you is the engine it left the factory with. If it is an original 383 Magnum 300hp car the fifth digit of the VIN should be a "N". The other 383 engine available for '71 was the 2-bbl 275hp motor and that one used the letter "L" in the VIN.

Lastly the 7th digit of the VIN will tell you where it was made. If it is a "B" it was made at the Hamtramck plant and the build sheet could be in the car somewhere. If it is an "E" it was made at the Los Angeles plant and finding the build sheet would be extremely remote as the LA plant had a "clean car" policy of not putting the build sheet in the car when it left the plant.

As for the price? From the pic it looks very clean and nice, but pics can be deceiving and there is no substitute for inspecting the car up close and personal with your own eyes . Assuming that it is as nice and rust free as it looks, the asking price seems within the range that nice examples are going for and maybe even on the low side if it is in fact a true R/T. Whether you like them or not, '70-'71 E-bodies are the cream of the classic Mopar crop and therefor command the highest asking prices. Well documented and restored big-block E-bodies can go for a lot of $$$ - just take a look at what is for sale on ebay and elsewhere.

BTW, that is a sweet looking 'vert you have there KK. I had a '70 'vert in the same B5 blue color but with a black top and interior. I think I actually like your color combo better with the white top and interior. Very nice indeed.

 

[WildCat]

No fender tag, what do people do with these things?

I didn't put the one back on my dart since it was a slant 6 auto and now a 340 4 speed. Really nothing the same, so why use it.

But I still have it

If no build sheet or fender tag I would look for the hidden vins stamped into the trunk lip and radiator support

If only a vin on dash could be a car with a different dash installed. I has a clean dash from a 74. That I was going to switch out for the one in my 72 but change the vin tag. Don't know what the guy I sold it to did with it. But with the vin riveted to the dash swapping the dash and not changing the vin would make it a different car.

Working the Mecum auction and watching them look for numbers to support what the seller is claiming can be very interesting

Do the rivets look correct? Still a very good looking car good luck with the purchase