1971 Scamp performance

-
I got a 380hp crate 9:1 cr, similar cam, single plane, 2.xx something rear gears and 2800 rpm stall I can burn my tires no problem, don't take that much hp to do so. At 2800 rpm the hp your making is about 53% of torque, minimum probably around 340 lbs-ft to 400 lbs-ft = 180 to 210 ish hp more than enough to burn some rubber.

My guess somewhere in your tune.
 

Have you tried it in 1st gear, more vaccum,from a stop. rear butterflies will open. Wot. 2nd gear 50/50 open . Drive or 3rd gear ,front butterflies are working for cruising. Lent my car to my brother, everything beat him light to light to work. Lol, phones me, l tell him to put it in first and start shifting.His ride home after work was priceless. Lmao.
 
Last edited:
Do you suspect any issues with the MSD? I ask because I just replaced an ignition module in my 86 Mustang GT the car was somewhat of a dog off the line before and now its like it woken itself up. Ford TFI though when they go bad it sets the computer into a default timing mode, and I suspect that was the case . But your timing off the line and through the advance curve is what I am getting at. I would see if the MSD unit is set up correctly or if there is adjustments etc.
 
IDK what a 508 cam is.
But,
If you really have a true 10.5Scr,
and your Ica is say 66*,
and yur at 1000ft elevation or less,
Then your CCP is likely to already be at the max for iron heads and best pumpgas.
If yur at 5000ft, well, yur gunna have to re-engineer your combo.

If your convertor is stock;
Let's say your engine makes 340 ftlbs at a stall of 2000rpm; that is 129hp.
Lets say you increase the stall-Timing right up to the point of detonation, less 2degrees. How much power can you expect to gain?
I'll tell you; not much.
Let's say you
swap in a 3000, to better match that cam. Suppose your torque/power jumps from 340@2000/129hp, to
380@3000/217hp. That's a pretty substantial increase.

If you already have a higher stall, then my guess is that your cam-timing is off, or your skirts/ring-gaps are too tight..
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My engine is similar to yours, but with a 230*/110cam, and a 4speed with 3.55s.
In First at WOT, it is impossible to not spin the 295/50 BFGs. She will burn right thru First. In fact, I can hit the Line-loc atta stop, bust the tires loose, and idle the engine down to say 1200; then just let her idle there with the tires singing a mournful song.
In Second, she will initiate spin at up to 50 mph.
If the tires are spinning at 50, then they often continue spinning into Third gear.
Now
I know T/As are traction-deficient, so I bought a pair of 325/50-15 D/Rs, with no change. Not cold and not hot either.
But the 295's are way more fun around town.

Happy HotRodding
 
IDK what a 508 cam is.
But,
If you really have a true 10.5Scr,
and your Ica is say 66*,
and yur at 1000ft elevation or less,
Then your CCP is likely to already be at the max for iron heads and best pumpgas.
If yur at 5000ft, well, yur gunna have to re-engineer your combo.

If your convertor is stock;
Let's say your engine makes 340 ftlbs at a stall of 2000rpm; that is 129hp.
Lets say you increase the stall-Timing right up to the point of detonation, less 2degrees. How much power can you expect to gain?
I'll tell you; not much.
Let's say you
swap in a 3000, to better match that cam. Suppose your torque/power jumps from 340@2000/129hp, to
380@3000/217hp. That's a pretty substantial increase.

If you already have a higher stall, then my guess is that your cam-timing is off, or your skirts/ring-gaps are too tight..
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My engine is similar to yours, but with a 230*/110cam, and a 4speed with 3.55s.
In First at WOT, it is impossible to not spin the 295/50 BFGs. She will burn right thru First. In fact, I can hit the Line-loc atta stop, bust the tires loose, and idle the engine down to say 1200; then just let her idle there with the tires singing a mournful song.
In Second, she will initiate spin at up to 50 mph.
If the tires are spinning at 50, then they often continue spinning into Third gear.
Now
I know T/As are traction-deficient, so I bought a pair of 325/50-15 D/Rs, with no change. Not cold and not hot either.
But the 295's are way more fun around town.

Happy HotRodding
Think he said he had a 2,800 rpm stall.
 
Well here's the question.
1971 Plymouth 360 Police block holley 4 barrel carburetor 670 cfm dual feed. MSD. Weiand intake. 1987 Police Block 40 over.
New Hank the crank. Lunati 508 lift cam
727 Torqflite shift kit.
8 three quarter rear 373 gears
This dam thing won't do a f#&$,$ burn out from a dead stop I have tried everything timing is 34 degrees.
Power brake no problem roast the tires.
Not enough torque not enough horse power. Carb seems to open all the way.
I'm stumped. I have been doing burnouts for over 40 plus years. Should compression test. Change the timing ?
Neutral Drop it ... power brake it.
Any sane input would be appreciated
Are you running exhaust manifolds or headers? What exhaust system?
 
First thing is the distributor curve, if you have a stock distributor with the stock curve in it with that cam, it will be a dog coming out of the hole. That cam is 235 degrees at .050, that is quite a bit of duration. If it was my distributor I would limit the advance to about 16-18 degrees and set the initial timing at 18-20 degrees. The other thing is that if that distributor has stock springs in it the curve will come in very slow, so slow that you may not see full advance till 4000 RPM or more, it should be adjusted by changing the springs for full advance to come in at 2500RPM or so. Also double check that your balancers zero is true zero, it may have slipped and you think that you have 34 degrees of timing when you really don't. If you do this and the car is still a dog, check the cranking compression to see where it is at, that may give you some additional clues but even if your cranking compression was a bit low that engine should still respond better than that. The next culprit IMHO is the converter, at one time I had a 440 Charger with a cam that was 230 at .050, it was a 72 low compression engine that had the compression upped a bit by surfacing the heads and was using the thin steel gaskets, nevertheless it was a dog coming out of the hole with the stock converter and 3.23 gears. As soon as I put in a 10" advertised 3500 stall converter that car would do burn outs for a whole city block. The only other thing is that the cam is just not where it should be, and for that you would have to degree it to see where it is at. The last thing is that your cam could be going flat, but if that were the case you would probably be hearing noises coming from the valvetrain.
 
Up date on the Scamp it appears the drivers side motor mount is broken.
With that being said now there are numerous gremlins that have to be addressed its confirmed drivers side motor mount broken. I appreciate all the help. I will update when things are figured out
 
Last edited:
Ohchit, then I do know that cam, cuz that was my first cam!
The 508 purple is 292/292/108, 248@050, and .508 lift@ 1.5 arms.

that cam, in my 367, was just able to idle down to 550rpm @5degrees of Idle-timing, with a Holley 750Dp on an Airgap, so that, with a 10.97 starter-gear, I could just parade my 4speed car, at ~4 mph without having to slip the clutch.
But, with 3.55s in the back, top of Second gear was 85mph. so it became a 2 plus one transmission with third rarely used. and,
with those same 3.55s, 65=almost 2900, and since I live nearly 30 minutes from any town of significance, 3.55s was as big as I wanted to go.
I tried this combo with the A833od, but Second was just too far away, and cruising at 65=2000, the rpm was a good 300/400rpm too low for economy.
That cam had to go.
I pulled it at the end of the first summer.
 
Last edited:
Is the 670 carb big enough? Based on what I've seen posted, the 750 seems to be the go to.
It's fine and it will not be the source of the issue as long as it is in correct working order. Will the car make more power with a 750? Yes, will a 750 fix the issue? absolutely not unless there was something terribly wrong with the 670.
 
Does anybody want to buy it LOL
Man, I feel for you. I bought a 72 Duster 340 that is a complete dog, a good 318 will leave this POS in the dust. First issue it has is that it will not rev past 4,500 RPM's, after going through the whole ignition system and replacing almost every component, rebuilding a 72 thermoquad, putting a new engine wiring harness, recurving the distributor etc... it is still a dog, less of a dog but a dog nonetheless and it still will not rev over 4500 rpm's. I finally came to the conclusion that the issue is with the valve springs, I know that the engine was rebuilt around 20years ago and someone must have changed the springs and not put them at the correct installed height and the valves just float as it nears 4500 RPM. Anyways waiting for the heat to come down to pull the engine and deal with it... I have though of getting rid of this dog of a car myself.
 
Maybe my memory is bad, I thought those 670 vac holleys had some issues.

Find a spring kit and put the second lightest secondary spring in it.

If you just have to run a Vac carb, find someone with a good running 3310/750 and put it on. See if the car wakes up.
 
Last edited:
Does anybody want to buy it LOL
Sure. I want to buy everything and I’m filthy rich and handsome (lol right). But you’re in Florida so you may as well fix it. It’s something stupid and simple, fix it do burnouts, and smile all the way to the gas station.
 
Update on the Scamp motor mounts in
And a brand new holley 650 mechanical secondaries. Now I can roast the tires. Got it out of the shop now there is a new problem with lifters clicking on the drivers side. Noise is inside the car clicking. Headers are tight . Somebody advised it maybe an exhaust leak. But I don't think so. The clicking noise is coming from under the drivers side valve cover. Maybe I'm missing something but I think the 360 may need a new cam and lifters I really hope not. Oh well murphy is back. If I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any luck. Car is parked in the garage until further notice. I'm out of cash. Car has great performance but bad clicking so I'm stumped
 
Update on the Scamp motor mounts in
And a brand new holley 650 mechanical secondaries. Now I can roast the tires. Got it out of the shop now there is a new problem with lifters clicking on the drivers side. Noise is inside the car clicking. Headers are tight . Somebody advised it maybe an exhaust leak. But I don't think so. The clicking noise is coming from under the drivers side valve cover. Maybe I'm missing something but I think the 360 may need a new cam and lifters I really hope not. Oh well murphy is back. If I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any luck. Car is parked in the garage until further notice. I'm out of cash. Car has great performance but bad clicking so I'm stumped
you got the rocker shaft installed the right way around?
 
Before you throw in the towel, yank the valve cover off and inspect a few things.
 
I'm being told by a mechanic it's either lifters and i would need a new cam & lifters . Or it's a exhaust leak ? Or manifold leak.the shop is going to diagnose it tommorow putting a stethoscope on it Say a prayer. 2k too fix ? Cam lifters
labor ?
I'm mechanically disabled so I'm at the mercy of Murphy.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom