Put the car on the floor, pump up ALL tires to 29psi, then roll the car back about 4 ft and ahead back to the starting position. Or forward then back, it makes no difference, I just want the suspension to equalize. Then;
Measure from the lowest part of the center of the K to the floor.
Also measure from the LBJ to the floor (ignore the grease-fitting)
and from the lowest part of the front T-bar socket inside the LCA, to the floor.
Then with the wheels pointing straight ahead, NOT the steering wheel, measure the track ;
which is from the center of the center tread on one side of the car to the same on the other side; measure both on the front side and on the rear side, AND as high up as you can and still have the tape stretched tight. Do not push or pull the wheels before,during or after the measuring.
After this is done;
Take off the wheel assembly and measure the backspace, which is from the mounting surface to the plane of the inboardmost rim face. NOT tire sidewall bulge. If you can , find the rim width stamped/cast into the aluminum, on the inside of the rim somewhere, often inside a spoke or on the outer ring. If you can't find it then try to measure the frontspace which is from the mounting surface to the plane of the outboardmost part of the rim. The goal here is to determine the rim width and the position of the spider in it.
Finally;
Run a non-stretchy cord, flexible tape, or other flat band around the center tread of the tire and report the measurement; from that I can calculate the exact tire diameter.
IIRC, the late model rotors are only about 3/8 further outboard.
What all the measuring will show, IMO, is that the front ride height is set too high, and the track-width is too wide. Even if you could align it like that, it won't steer worthchit cuz the scrub radius is outside it's operating window.
I believe you will need different wheels, to put the tire INTO the housing, and to lower the rideheight, to put the wheel higher UP inside it, so that the fender lip comes well below the center of the wheel. And you may still have to trim that corner.
With those wheels, you should not have any rubbing on the frame nor the strutrods, nor Upper BJs; the tires are just too far outboard. The wheel appears to be the correct width for the tires, which with a 215 would be right around 7inches.
For minor cases of interference you might be able to modify your fender-stay to push that corner out further, but in your case, the situation is way past minor. And what can happen with rubber strutrod bushings is that when traveling in reverse,turning,and then hitting the brake, this action can still drive the tire into the corner . And now the tire is turning into the corner and it likes to fold it up. This happens because the rubber strutrod bushing is flexible enough to allow it. So you, with the current wheels, would have to allow for that so the trimmed corners don't cut your tires. Furthermore, just because you got clearance at rest does not mean that there will still be clearance as the suspension cycles up and down. The best solution is to move the wheel assemblies into and up, inside the wheelhousings.
