1973 Dodge Dart slant 6 questions

[First73Dart]

I hope this is ok. I am new to mopar products. The main issues that I want to address on this car are the following:

seller told me carb always needs to be adjusted and choke sticks. Do I replace with a brand new carb or have the carb rebuilt?

there is a leak in the power steering. I’m assuming it’s coming from the pump. The seller said he filled it every month and a half. Other than the power steering pump, what she needs changed out at the same time? Thanks

the fuel gauge doesn’t work. What are some things I can check or is it safe to assume the float went bad?

the car needs new bushings and the seller thinks lower control arms. I drove the car and didn’t notice anything with the front end or suspension. What parts usually go on these cars. I would do urethane bushings like I always did on my Volkswagens.

thanks so much for all the advice

 

[RustyRatRod]

I hope this is ok. I am new to mopar products. The main issues that I want to address on this car are the following:

seller told me carb always needs to be adjusted and choke sticks. Do I replace with a brand new carb or have the carb rebuilt?

Whichever you prefer. This is a personal decision. I would rebuild it myself since I do all my own work.

there is a leak in the power steering. I’m assuming it’s coming from the pump. The seller said he filled it every month and a half. Other than the power steering pump, what she needs changed out at the same time? Thanks

How can we know that? None of is there to inspect your car. You'll have to do that and report back.


the fuel gauge doesn’t work. What are some things I can check or is it safe to assume the float went bad?

Ground the wire that plugs into the fuel sender while someone is watching the gauge. It should go to full. If it does, the gauge is good.

the car needs new bushings and the seller thinks lower control arms. I drove the car and didn’t notice anything with the front end or suspension. What parts usually go on these cars. I would do urethane bushings like I always did on my Volkswagens.

The lower control arm bushings are where all the weight is supported. They are normally the first to go.

thanks so much for all the advice

Click on the window above. My answers are in red.

 

[First73Dart]

Click on the window above. My answers are in red.

Thank you

 

[67belevdere/225]

I hope this is ok. I am new to mopar products. The main issues that I want to address on this car are the following:

seller told me carb always needs to be adjusted and choke sticks. Do I replace with a brand new carb or have the carb rebuilt?

there is a leak in the power steering. I’m assuming it’s coming from the pump. The seller said he filled it every month and a half. Other than the power steering pump, what she needs changed out at the same time? Thanks

the fuel gauge doesn’t work. What are some things I can check or is it safe to assume the float went bad?

the car needs new bushings and the seller thinks lower control arms. I drove the car and didn’t notice anything with the front end or suspension. What parts usually go on these cars. I would do urethane bushings like I always did on my Volkswagens.

thanks so much for all the advice

the thing about rebuilding the carb is when its done professionally they make sure the throttle shaft is tight and not worn they usually rebush it , so I would check rock auto and see what they offer
but if you plan to give her more power and swap it to a 2 barrel and rebuild it with a cam and all. then maybe re-kit the carb .

 

[KosmicKuda]

Pictures of the engine would help ID the parts involved. How capable are you?

Clean the slime off the power steering parts, finishing with brake cleaner. Go for a drive and see if you can determine where the leaks are when you get back. 48 year old parts are gonna leak! I'll see if I can post a link later but I noticed Richard Ehrenberg has gasket kits fof PS units in his e-bay store. (Saginaw)
for Mopar 67-79 Saginaw Power Steer Pump Rebuild Kit A B E-body 318 340 383 440 | eBay

Hell, a fill up every month or 2 is nothing. I topped the PS Fluid off in my 68 before I drove it from CA to OH and it was gone in 10 minutes. I took the PS belt off and drove it that way for 3 years before swapping to manual steering.

Regarding the front suspension ... it's not hard to completely rebuild. If upper and lower ball joints are good, (see Factory Service Manual for limits) I'd leave them alone. Same with tie rod ends. Upper ball joints unscrew out with special socket, NOT pressed out. Easier to change upper ball joints while the control arms are still on the car. Lowers double as steering links.

I would definitely change the strut rod bushings especially if the left has been yucked up with PS fluid! Urethane will withstand PS fluid if you don't get that fixed.
Change the LCA bushings (most difficult part). Must be pressed out and new pressed but you can use a torch and burn them out if you're Backyard Billy. Torsion bars need to come out and don't score them with vice grips as they'll fatigue and break later .
Change Upper Control Arm Bushings. You can use Moog Offset "problem solver" bushings arranged to get more positive caster. 2 degrees is a good Alignment start for modern radials. You can press these out yourself with a hunk of 1/2-13 all-thread and some spacers. If you can get the alignment adjustment cams and bolts to unscrew, the rest is easy. You're in the Rust Belt!
No need for any of the above to be urethane. Fresh rubber works just fine.

Use urethane for sway bar end links and bushings. Also rear shackle bushings.

You can source all this junk through Rockauto.com Mancini Racing has shackle bushings.

You posted here in the /6 section but if you have suspension questions or whatever, you should really post (or search) in those sections.

 

[67belevdere/225]

Pictures of the engine would help ID the parts involved. How capable are you?

Clean the slime off the power steering parts, finishing with brake cleaner. Go for a drive and see if you can determine where the leaks are when you get back. 48 year old parts are gonna leak! I'll see if I can post a link later but I noticed Richard Ehrenberg has gasket kits fof PS units in his e-bay store. (Saginaw)
for Mopar 67-79 Saginaw Power Steer Pump Rebuild Kit A B E-body 318 340 383 440 | eBay

Hell, a fill up every month or 2 is nothing. I topped the PS Fluid off in my 68 before I drove it from CA to OH and it was gone in 10 minutes. I took the PS belt off and drove it that way for 3 years before swapping to manual steering.

Regarding the front suspension ... it's not hard to completely rebuild. If upper and lower ball joints are good, (see Factory Service Manual for limits) I'd leave them alone. Same with tie rod ends. Upper ball joints unscrew out with special socket, NOT pressed out. Easier to change upper ball joints while the control arms are still on the car. Lowers double as steering links.

I would definitely change the strut rod bushings especially if the left has been yucked up with PS fluid! Urethane will withstand PS fluid if you don't get that fixed.
Change the LCA bushings (most difficult part). Must be pressed out and new pressed but you can use a torch and burn them out if you're Backyard Billy. Torsion bars need to come out and don't score them with vice grips as they'll fatigue and break later .
Change Upper Control Arm Bushings. You can use Moog Offset "problem solver" bushings arranged to get more positive caster. 2 degrees is a good Alignment start for modern radials. You can press these out yourself with a hunk of 1/2-13 all-thread and some spacers. If you can get the alignment adjustment cams and bolts to unscrew, the rest is easy. You're in the Rust Belt!
No need for any of the above to be urethane. Fresh rubber works just fine.

Use urethane for sway bar end links and bushings. Also rear shackle bushings.

You can source all this junk through Rockauto.com Mancini Racing has shackle bushings.

You posted here in the /6 section but if you have suspension questions or whatever, you should really post (or search) in those sections.

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BBB INDUSTRIES 7322123 {#19319947} Reman; With Reservoir Info

Saginaw Pump
you can get it rebuilt already for cheap

 

[67Dart273]

I hope this is ok. I am new to mopar products. The main issues that I want to address on this car are the following:

seller told me carb always needs to be adjusted and choke sticks. Do I replace with a brand new carb or have the carb rebuilt?

there is a leak in the power steering. I’m assuming it’s coming from the pump. The seller said he filled it every month and a half. Other than the power steering pump, what she needs changed out at the same time? Thanks

AND YOU ARE A LUCKY PERSON!!! Thanks to the guys right here on this board, a dffierent (and helpful) site has a FREE downloadable 73 service manual and all you have to do is wander over there and click on it. ................ MyMopar ................ and no I don't work there

the fuel gauge doesn’t work. What are some things I can check or is it safe to assume the float went bad?

the car needs new bushings and the seller thinks lower control arms. I drove the car and didn’t notice anything with the front end or suspension. What parts usually go on these cars. I would do urethane bushings like I always did on my Volkswagens.

thanks so much for all the advice