JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
So I am finding out that it seems to be difficult to replace headlight and wiper switches. It maybe time to investigate modern replacements as alternatives.
1973 Plymouth Duster repair and rebuild
- Thread starter JohnFM3
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JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Now to transmission issues. Will update soon.
Currently sorting out how solid the 904 is. It doesn't seem to like shifting into 3rd gear. I know that adjusting the kickdown is always recommended in this situation. I am also considering that the fluid is over 10yrs old, and for that time at least the car has not ran. Need to get a couple of quarts to top off the transmission, then test drive again and see if that goes away before attempting to adjust the kickdown.
Currently sorting out how solid the 904 is. It doesn't seem to like shifting into 3rd gear. I know that adjusting the kickdown is always recommended in this situation. I am also considering that the fluid is over 10yrs old, and for that time at least the car has not ran. Need to get a couple of quarts to top off the transmission, then test drive again and see if that goes away before attempting to adjust the kickdown.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I had to fix the throttle return springs as they were not strong enough to return the throttle all the way back. Since I built the cable bracket holding the lokar throttle and kickdown cables, I had concluded that I must not made it far enough back from the throttle plate, as such I drilled a small hole on the upward facing edge forward of the original spot that the springs currently used. After moving the springs forward to the new hole (about 1/2 in), now the throttle returns back properly. The picture below is prior to the new hole being drilled.
Regarding the shifting issue, I found that the fluid though old was still cherry red even after a few miles of driving. I just didnt like to shift into 3rd. So I opted to put 2 qts of ATF-4 in it which brought the level just over the full line. And using ATF-4 added a fluid modifier to the transmission which I am counting on only being helpful if possible. What I did find was the kickdown cable was back away from the adjustment piece and up against the edge. The little cover on it had slid all the way down the cable as well. I placed it correctly in the adjustment socket (have no clue what to call it), and took for test drive. Where it shifted into 3rd with no issues.
I need to get under the car and grab that little piece which covers the end of the cable and bring it forward again. I may use some form of epoxy to secure it to the end of the cable. I am surprised there isnt a requirement to crimp it or something. Both my throttle and kickdown are able to do the same thing. So far the throttle cable looks good.
Regarding the shifting issue, I found that the fluid though old was still cherry red even after a few miles of driving. I just didnt like to shift into 3rd. So I opted to put 2 qts of ATF-4 in it which brought the level just over the full line. And using ATF-4 added a fluid modifier to the transmission which I am counting on only being helpful if possible. What I did find was the kickdown cable was back away from the adjustment piece and up against the edge. The little cover on it had slid all the way down the cable as well. I placed it correctly in the adjustment socket (have no clue what to call it), and took for test drive. Where it shifted into 3rd with no issues.
I need to get under the car and grab that little piece which covers the end of the cable and bring it forward again. I may use some form of epoxy to secure it to the end of the cable. I am surprised there isnt a requirement to crimp it or something. Both my throttle and kickdown are able to do the same thing. So far the throttle cable looks good.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Latest Update
So after fighting the slant six distributor timing game for way too much time, I bought the Matt Mopar v8 style distributor mount. It should be delivered tomorrow, at which point I will drop the distributor back in and get it timed. I have also bought a dash mounted vacuum gauge. The jury is out on how useful that will be. I have been told that its useful when performing engine timing. So we will see.
With a broken instrument cluster, I have done all I can do to make it look good when installed. I will be testing to see if the fuel and temp gauges are working shortly. I have bought a budget friendly GPS speed meter HUD (heads up display) for the car. Plug it into 12v power, and it will acquirer a GPS and show speed and mileage. Also has a clock, so it can provide additional information of how long the vehicle has been driving. Additional features is a over speed limit alarm. I am interested in seeing how that works out. A new cluster is going to cost me $750, so thats out of the question until I get a job or someone chooses to donate to the cause... lol
Engine mounts and exhaust are really whats left in fixing the drivability portion. Then the real important item is to be fixed.... the lack of a radio... lol
So after fighting the slant six distributor timing game for way too much time, I bought the Matt Mopar v8 style distributor mount. It should be delivered tomorrow, at which point I will drop the distributor back in and get it timed. I have also bought a dash mounted vacuum gauge. The jury is out on how useful that will be. I have been told that its useful when performing engine timing. So we will see.
With a broken instrument cluster, I have done all I can do to make it look good when installed. I will be testing to see if the fuel and temp gauges are working shortly. I have bought a budget friendly GPS speed meter HUD (heads up display) for the car. Plug it into 12v power, and it will acquirer a GPS and show speed and mileage. Also has a clock, so it can provide additional information of how long the vehicle has been driving. Additional features is a over speed limit alarm. I am interested in seeing how that works out. A new cluster is going to cost me $750, so thats out of the question until I get a job or someone chooses to donate to the cause... lol
Engine mounts and exhaust are really whats left in fixing the drivability portion. Then the real important item is to be fixed.... the lack of a radio... lol
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
This engine is kicking my butt.
My new v8 style distributor mount was delivered today. I have been dealing with a minor misfire for a while and believe that I have resolved the issues with exception of ignition timing. I assembled the distributor, set the engine timing to 10 degrees BTDC, and dropped the distributor in pointing to number 1, and unplugged vacuum advance. Of course capped the carb port.
Timing light showed it to be almost 40 degrees advanced. So I adjusted it, and when I was at roughly 18 degrees advanced, the engine sounded good. Moved it to 10 degrees btdc, and my misfire is back.
I am really wandering what’s going on here. New harmonic balancer, timing chain set, distributor, coil, and hei module. Of course new plugs and wires. I am sure I got timing chain correct. I believe I have the correct timing chain cover. And I believe the correct mark on the harmonic balancer has been marked with paint. Going to confirm with key slot at 12 o’clock, the mark is at 1 o’clock tomorrow.
I am about to time it by ear. Advance timing till engine stumbles, then retard a small amount until the engine smooths out.
Is it possible that my memory is wrong and the harmonic balancer timing mark is supposed to be pointing at 4 o’clock with a 73 timing cover? The cover has a welded on timing mark plate.
This is very frustrating. I am so certain that the timing between crank and cam are correct, but ignition timing is not showing up correctly as expected. And when I set it where I want to start at, runs with a misfire.
My new v8 style distributor mount was delivered today. I have been dealing with a minor misfire for a while and believe that I have resolved the issues with exception of ignition timing. I assembled the distributor, set the engine timing to 10 degrees BTDC, and dropped the distributor in pointing to number 1, and unplugged vacuum advance. Of course capped the carb port.
Timing light showed it to be almost 40 degrees advanced. So I adjusted it, and when I was at roughly 18 degrees advanced, the engine sounded good. Moved it to 10 degrees btdc, and my misfire is back.
I am really wandering what’s going on here. New harmonic balancer, timing chain set, distributor, coil, and hei module. Of course new plugs and wires. I am sure I got timing chain correct. I believe I have the correct timing chain cover. And I believe the correct mark on the harmonic balancer has been marked with paint. Going to confirm with key slot at 12 o’clock, the mark is at 1 o’clock tomorrow.
I am about to time it by ear. Advance timing till engine stumbles, then retard a small amount until the engine smooths out.
Is it possible that my memory is wrong and the harmonic balancer timing mark is supposed to be pointing at 4 o’clock with a 73 timing cover? The cover has a welded on timing mark plate.
This is very frustrating. I am so certain that the timing between crank and cam are correct, but ignition timing is not showing up correctly as expected. And when I set it where I want to start at, runs with a misfire.
Most new balancers are marked correctly for one mark and wrong for the second. There are usually two marks on the new ones. One supposedly for each timing tab location, but somehow, the industry got one of them wrong and it's like that across the board from what I've found. I just used a piston stop, found true TDC and made a new mark on the balancer. Sounds like that's what you need to do.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I hope so.
Using a piston stop, I am guessing I bring piston to the stop, mark balancer, reverse crank till it hits stop again and mark, then finally mark the balancer in the middle of the 2 marks?
Correct. Dead center of the two marks is true TDC. Keep in mind the more accurate you mark and measure, the more accurate your new TDC mark will be.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Thanks
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Some purchases have been made...
- Finally, a Hyanes Manual for 1967 thru 1976 a-body with slant 6
- Piston Stop
- Degree Wheel
- Motor/Transmission mounts
- Replacement instrument cluster light sockets and bulbs
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Ok, am I being stupid here....
I measured from the front edge of the rear tire to the wheel well at the bottom where the pinch weld ends.
Driver: 2in
Passenger: 1.75in
That tells me the rear axle is not tracking straight by 1/4 inch.
I am curious about the leaf springs, and whether they are the same or not.
I measured from the front edge of the rear tire to the wheel well at the bottom where the pinch weld ends.
Driver: 2in
Passenger: 1.75in
That tells me the rear axle is not tracking straight by 1/4 inch.
I am curious about the leaf springs, and whether they are the same or not.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Nothing major going on. Diagnosing a click noise in the front. Going to pull the hub bearings and make sure they are ok. Classic Industries said the bearings came ready to use as is with the applied grease. I will pull them out and plan on greasing them again. It was recommended that I get the PCV system setup. So I bought a new valve, grommet, breather, and hose and got it routed. Connected the PVC hose to the base of the carb, and moved the Power Booster to a port on the number 6 intake runner. Another addition, I installed a vacuum gauge in the car. Nothing special. It looks as if the car is sitting at 14 to 16. I will make some adjustments and see if I can improve it any.
After I get the front end checked out, I will move the car to my parents where its flat and get some measurements done to see whats going on with the suspension.
After I get the front end checked out, I will move the car to my parents where its flat and get some measurements done to see whats going on with the suspension.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
At 25 degrees outside, I didnt pull the rotors to re pack the bearings. I did remove the hub nut, and pull back the washer to look at the surface condition of the grease. Which looks great. I do believe the driver side hub nut was a bit tight still before tearing it down. So I reset the hub nuts. Also found that I had not fully tighten the upper control arms, so those got tighten down to 65 ft/lb from probably 40.
I drove it around and it looks like my vacuum is sitting at 10 to 12 inHg at 40mph in 3rd gear (904 auto). The clicking noise seems to have gone away, although I swear I heard it very slightly. Need to investigate that more it seems. I would have thought there was a rock in the tread, but that didnt seem to be the case when I pulled the wheels off and inspected. The clicking might not be the front end at all.
I drove it around and it looks like my vacuum is sitting at 10 to 12 inHg at 40mph in 3rd gear (904 auto). The clicking noise seems to have gone away, although I swear I heard it very slightly. Need to investigate that more it seems. I would have thought there was a rock in the tread, but that didnt seem to be the case when I pulled the wheels off and inspected. The clicking might not be the front end at all.
You're SO not paying attention.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Not sure what your talking about.... As I agreed and am working on resolving the rear end. As well as make corrective actions to the front and rear independent of each other getting them square to the car and not to each other. Meanwhile I am working on other items.
If you make note of the time stamp, that post is much older than the other thread.
You were shown all the correct measuring points in that diagram that was posted earlier, yet you march on measuring from all the wrong places. You cannot measure from body panels and pinch welds. The car has dedicated measuring points in the frame rails that the diagram clearly points out. I wouldn't touch it until you get it on someone's alignment rack that knows what they're doing OR on a frame machine.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I know I was, and I am very grateful. It was really a learning experience. I didnt know the front leaf spring mount was removable from the car, allowing for shimming to be possible. I agree. I am trying to postpone rear work until I can afford new leaf springs including mounts, shackles, and bushings. Rear springs, mounts, bushings and shocks will be close to $1,000 for everything I want to go thru the whole system. And once that work is done, I will use the diagram to measure my chassis measuring points to rear axle for a rough starting point. Then get a job, followed by taking the car in for front end work and alignment.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Again, the post in this thread you replayed to was much older, and with NO response is why I started the other thread. I am in total agreement with what I learned from the other thread. And grateful for your involvement.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I want to cry.
I went against my better judgment and decided to buy a new universal 2 sp wiper switch and build a jumper harness soldered to the switch and flat terminal connection to the wiper switch plug. Then, when I got volts on all the terminals upon applying power, I was convinced that the wiper motor was not bad but needs to be torn down and cleaned. So, my neighbor did just that. And I can say, the parts inside appeared to be in great shape. I reinstalled it and ensured I had a good ground.
Well, the wiper motor turned just fine when set to hi.
Sure thing, the wiper motor worked until the harness burned up. Smoke coming out. I quickly turned off the car and ran out to disconnect the battery. It looks like the green hi speed wire is all that burned up. I know the harness was in great shape before this. I am guessing that there is a problem with the switch or the motor as I suspected. I know I saw smoke coming from behind the instrument cluster. But only 1 wire, the main power, goes from the wiper switch behind the instrument cluster, and to the fuse panel. The remaining 4 wires go towards the bulkhead connector on the driver side and straight to the wiper motor.
I am not one for installing universal parts. And I normally would never tear down a DC motor and bring it back to life. And I did both. Now the car is not able to be driven as a result.
I dont know what I am going to do. I can buy a new OEM under dash harness for $700 from Classic Industries. I was planning in the future to install a Painless harness with bulkhead, its about $800ish depending on how many circuits I want. Now was not the time. My other option is to cut open the harness from the switch plug to the bulkhead connector, ensure no other neighboring wires were damaged, and cut out the green hi speed wiper wire and replace it. I would need a new terminal for the bulkhead so I dont have to reuse the current one with the fried wire.
In any case, I have the harness out of the car. And I am contemplating my next move.
I went against my better judgment and decided to buy a new universal 2 sp wiper switch and build a jumper harness soldered to the switch and flat terminal connection to the wiper switch plug. Then, when I got volts on all the terminals upon applying power, I was convinced that the wiper motor was not bad but needs to be torn down and cleaned. So, my neighbor did just that. And I can say, the parts inside appeared to be in great shape. I reinstalled it and ensured I had a good ground.
Well, the wiper motor turned just fine when set to hi.
Sure thing, the wiper motor worked until the harness burned up. Smoke coming out. I quickly turned off the car and ran out to disconnect the battery. It looks like the green hi speed wire is all that burned up. I know the harness was in great shape before this. I am guessing that there is a problem with the switch or the motor as I suspected. I know I saw smoke coming from behind the instrument cluster. But only 1 wire, the main power, goes from the wiper switch behind the instrument cluster, and to the fuse panel. The remaining 4 wires go towards the bulkhead connector on the driver side and straight to the wiper motor.
I am not one for installing universal parts. And I normally would never tear down a DC motor and bring it back to life. And I did both. Now the car is not able to be driven as a result.
I dont know what I am going to do. I can buy a new OEM under dash harness for $700 from Classic Industries. I was planning in the future to install a Painless harness with bulkhead, its about $800ish depending on how many circuits I want. Now was not the time. My other option is to cut open the harness from the switch plug to the bulkhead connector, ensure no other neighboring wires were damaged, and cut out the green hi speed wiper wire and replace it. I would need a new terminal for the bulkhead so I dont have to reuse the current one with the fried wire.
In any case, I have the harness out of the car. And I am contemplating my next move.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
$7-800 is a lot of money compared to your time spent picking the loom apart and replacing any damaged wires. especially if you don't have that kind of money laying around right now 
neil.
neil.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
$7-800 is a lot of money compared to your time spent picking the loom apart and replacing any damaged wires. especially if you don't have that kind of money laying around right now
neil.
So true. My not so good alternative, cut out the high speed wire and run it. Once I am over my anger at myself, tomorrow I will look at it again and make a decision.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Well, I see 2 viable options at this time. Replace the hi speed wire, or remove the wire. I have been told by another who restored a roadrunner that the local auto-parts store sells the female terminal connectors needed for the bulkhead connector. If that is the case, I may try to replace the wire.
Has anyone had any luck with non OEM wiper motors and switches? The switch I had bought had 1 less wire, and I had to pair it to the incoming Bat wire. On the original switch, it would have been terminal A, I believe used to supply power to both speeds and the park circuit.
Has anyone had any luck with non OEM wiper motors and switches? The switch I had bought had 1 less wire, and I had to pair it to the incoming Bat wire. On the original switch, it would have been terminal A, I believe used to supply power to both speeds and the park circuit.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
WE GOT EXHAUST 
Its safe to assume I have fixed the wiring issue. I was able to find the correct terminal connectors and cut out the fried wiper high speed wire and replace with new wire and terminals. For now, I will not have wipers until I can source a workable solution. Most likely NOS parts. May consider aftermarket solutions assuming the switch and motor are meant to work together.
Now for the important info....
The car just got home from the exhaust shop. I am super excited. I like how it sounds. Can be a tad raspy on the top end of a throttle snap, but at cruise it has a nice tone.
2.25in single pipe from manifold to Flowmaster 40's single in dual out muffler. Dual 2in pipes up and over the axle and out the back. Of course chrome pencil tips.
1973 plymouth duster w/225 slant six - first start with flowmaster exhaust system
Its safe to assume I have fixed the wiring issue. I was able to find the correct terminal connectors and cut out the fried wiper high speed wire and replace with new wire and terminals. For now, I will not have wipers until I can source a workable solution. Most likely NOS parts. May consider aftermarket solutions assuming the switch and motor are meant to work together.
Now for the important info....
The car just got home from the exhaust shop. I am super excited. I like how it sounds. Can be a tad raspy on the top end of a throttle snap, but at cruise it has a nice tone.
2.25in single pipe from manifold to Flowmaster 40's single in dual out muffler. Dual 2in pipes up and over the axle and out the back. Of course chrome pencil tips.
1973 plymouth duster w/225 slant six - first start with flowmaster exhaust system
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
So I just finished listening to the youtube videos of the Barracuda with the fuel injected jeep 4.0L inline 6 and the duster with the carb'd 225 slant six. Its tough to compare. I do think the 4.0L is abit deeper. The barracuda is not as raspy in my opinion.
The exhaust system is the same on both, including crossing under the engine and down the passenger side of car. One exception, the barracuda has a hi-flow cat converter and a 20in long 2.5in pipe segment between converter and muffler. Once employed, I will install a 3ft long 2.5in pipe on the duster and compare the tone to what it has now. I am interested in seeing how that 2.5 in segment infront of the muffler changes the tone.
again, 2.25in single pipe from manifold to Flowmaster 40's single in dual out muffler. Dual 2in pipes up and over the axle and out the back.
The exhaust system is the same on both, including crossing under the engine and down the passenger side of car. One exception, the barracuda has a hi-flow cat converter and a 20in long 2.5in pipe segment between converter and muffler. Once employed, I will install a 3ft long 2.5in pipe on the duster and compare the tone to what it has now. I am interested in seeing how that 2.5 in segment infront of the muffler changes the tone.
again, 2.25in single pipe from manifold to Flowmaster 40's single in dual out muffler. Dual 2in pipes up and over the axle and out the back.
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