1973 Pro Touring Swinger

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well i just did something i havn't done in a long time! spend some money! the front end on the swinger is getting really bad as are the tires, and im not putting those B.E.A.utiful 255 Sport Comps on worn out, blown shock, wandering original suspension! so i called up firm feel and had a great chat with Dick, talk about a knowledgeable person! he didn't try to sell me anything but answered all my questions quickly and guided me as to what parts i need and may want to add.

So i have new tube poly uppers, adjustable strut rods, grease-able pivot pins, nylon LCA bushings, the k frame kit as well as the plates.

Also ordered the Steel adjustable 11/16 tie rod adjusters, poly boots for ties and ball joints, as well as the rest of the bushings in poly.

now i just need to order all the moog BJ's, tie rods for a 74 C body (11/16), and idler/pitman!

boy that was fun!
 
805moparkid said:
So i found my color! i dont even know the name of the color yet as last time my paint store didn't have it! I think its called "Poison Green" but dont know for sure...

111455957403772685.jpg
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too cool!

Beware though this is created in photoshop, and is not necessarily the actual color. (even beyond the variation in photos and monitors)

I just checked the current and 2014 Viper catalog, green is not an option :(

But Check out the Snakegrass Green from 2010 (i think) great bold green pearl/metallic

3644402213_54e5f024a0.jpg
 
CudaChris67 said:
too cool!

Beware though this is created in photoshop, and is not necessarily the actual color. (even beyond the variation in photos and monitors)

I just checked the current and 2014 Viper catalog, green is not an option :(

But Check out the Snakegrass Green from 2010 (i think) great bold green pearl/metallic

3644402213_54e5f024a0.jpg
Click to expand...

het great info! nobody can just leave anything alone! I can always take the pic I posted and have it mixed really close, or find the number for the paint you posted, though I think its to light for me
 
I think technically its called Snakeskin green. You might also want to check out the '11 Challenger color Green With Envy. Its very similar, but maybe just a slight shade darker.
 
rymanrph said:
I think technically its called Snakeskin green. You might also want to check out the '11 Challenger color Green With Envy. Its very similar, but maybe just a slight shade darker.
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You are absolutely correct, thank you.

also the snakeskin green above appears to be in full direct sun, i remember it a little darker and "electric"

those two colors are pretty close:

5833818102_d3169ba1b4_o.jpg


5833263039_a211716f54_o.jpg


stolen from: http://ns2.gigathreads.com/showthread.php?t=69034
 
the lighter or darker one? the lighter one is just to light for me, i like the darker one though?
The darker one.Not a neon sign,Ed.
 
UPS MAN WAS HERE!!! just have to order my Moog bj's, tie rods, and idler/pitman and im ready to rock!
 

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Try that Addco ,Ed. It,boils down,to a tuning situation. Kudos,for ordering the "+g" graphite Energy Suspension goodies.
 
Abodybomber said:
Try that Addco ,Ed. It,boils down,to a tuning situation. Kudos,for ordering the "+g" graphite Energy Suspension goodies.
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yea i have a longways to go before the bar is the issue... those 205-14's are noisy in a corner! though the 1" bars and pr of 003 springs really leveled the car
 
"you like the nylon LCA bushing?? lol?". . Ouch, Ed! (lol). I always grew up,with simplicity. Ed,eliminate the slop....
 
Well dart had a bad day, it lost a shoe and almost two! Bummer as i have been saving to rebuild the front end and upgrade the rolling stock. Well it can wait some more...
 

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So i had been trying to source a booster and master for the swinger with no luck... they just are not making them. So i found a universal booster for GM's, the bolt spread is pretty close, just some work with a die grinder and it slips right in! Now the master, i wanted a big bore and aluminum. So i settled on one that ended up being for a 90's chevy but also fits ford and chevy trucks of the 90's! Also these have the SAME fittings as your factory master so it just bolts in!

So i had to:
Open up the holes to align the factory booster bracket to the new universal booster.
Modify (shorten) and widen the "u" bracket supplied with the booster.
Cut down the threaded shaft coming out of the back of the booster.
And lastly add 2 washers to the top of the booster to tilt it down to clear the hood.

Part numbers
Master Aluminum 1.25 bore #DHB-M390257 $44.97 on summit
Booster Dual 8" #RSD-RPB8531 $104.33 on summit

Now on the feel of braking, before the older master dumped the rears would lock up (as usual) under hard/panic stops, that hasn't changed but without changing the wheel cylinders to adding the prop valve (going to later) its going to continue. The new 1.25 master moves alot of fluid, pedal travel is very short, but better than a hydro-boost(those are F**kin touchy!!). That said i can stop the car with my hand on the pedal thanks to the dual booster!

All in all i like the braking much better, just takes some getting used to but every change does.
 

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Nice to see you found an answer,Ed. Damn,the price was right. One thing I found: the better wheel /tire combination ,helps cut down rear wheel lockup. Found this out ,on my 2x Toyota. Swapped a set of 235/45/17's/ 1st Gen"Bullitt" late model mustang wheels on. Rear wheel lockup,almost completely disappeared.
 
Abodybomber said:
Nice to see you found an answer,Ed. Damn,the price was right. One thing I found: the better wheel /tire combination ,helps cut down rear wheel lockup. Found this out ,on my 2x Toyota. Swapped a set of 235/45/17's/ 1st Gen"Bullitt" late model mustang wheels on. Rear wheel lockup,almost completely disappeared.
Click to expand...

I figured the same as its harder to break loose! i'll install the prop valve and tune it as I go...
 
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