1973 Scamp Rearend question

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Bobmanking

Bobmanking

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Hey Folks,

I picked up a 73 scamp a little while ago, and am slowly turning it into a beast. It has a 318 with 340 crank/rods, 360 heads. Just had the trans rebuilt.

However it has the stock one wheel peeling rear end w 2.76 gears. I want to get a limited slip posi with either 3.55 or 3.73 gears but have no idea where to start. I've taken it to a few shops and nobody can give me an answer on what size rear end it is. What did the 73 scamps have ? And what do I need to look for to get a limited slip 3.55 or 3.73… I've been researching online, but can't seem to find an answer. There's a ton of options on ebay.

Thanks!
 

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If it's this... 7 1/4"
View attachment 7.25.jpg

You may want to start from scratch and upgrade to a larger housing.


If it's a 8 1/4"
View attachment 8.25 rr.jpg

You might look into finding a Dakota/Truck unit used, that will work in it with a decent gear. I've never fooled with the 8 1/4", but plenty of guys here have. I'm sure you'll get some good advise as to how to do it on the cheap. :)
 
cool thanks for all the help so far! looks like it's a 7 1/4" :/

now the question is what is required to upgrade to an 8 1/4" ?

thanks!
 

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i found this, and it's local. will it drop in? [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/LIMITED-SLIP-DODGE-DANA-8-25-8-1-4-SURE-GRIP-TRAC-LOC-POSI-3-55-29-SPLINE-/301369139979?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item462b00230b&vxp=mtr"]Limited Slip Dodge Dana 8 25 8 1 4 Sure Grip Trac Loc Posi 3 55 29 Spline | eBay[/ame]
 
or 27 spline [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Plymouth-Mopar-8-25-8-1-4-Sure-Grip-Trac-Lok-Posi-3-55-Gears-27-spline-/281480409412?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41898a3144&vxp=mtr"]Dodge Plymouth Mopar 8 25 8 1 4 Sure Grip Trac Lok Posi 3 55 Gears 27 Spline | eBay[/ame]
 
If your going to swap the rear complete jeep grand Cherokee I think 96-98 had 81/4 usually with suregrip and disc brakes may have to move the spring perch pik n pul sells complete rear for under $150
 
Don't know if they will drop right in havn't taken any measurements you don't want a dakota they are 6 lug
 
Not to hijack the thread, but will going from a 7.25 to 8.25 require a driveshaft modification?
I'm in a similar situation with my 74 Scamp.
I actually have an 8.25 lined up with the ubolts, perches, and whatever else...just not sure about the drive shaft.

Nice looking car, btw. :)
 
Also the 8.25 went from 27 spline to 29 spline in 97. I have a sure grip for a 27 spline that I was going to put in my 97 Dakota til I found this out.
Don't know about converting to a Dakota rear but A-body 7.25 and 8.25 takes different brake backing plates and shock plates. Best to just find a complete A-body 8.25 or 8.75 setup.
 
so there is no actual compatible axle/rearend other than another a body of the same era?
 
Some people have taken a B-body rear and used in an A-body. They are wider but you can get rims with deeper back spacing. 62-70 B's have a 44" spring perch versa the A-body 43". Some people just pull the springs in and both them in but I myself would weld on new perches. But to answer your question the a-body is the narrowest rear housing.
I have a 9.25 rear from a 2000 Dakota that I'm going to measure just to see where it is but it has 6 lug axles which would need to be changed.
 
Bobmanking said:
so there is no actual compatible axle/rearend other than another a body of the same era?
Click to expand...

I'm learning all of this out too but, I've been reading about a Ford 9" working in Mopar A-Body cars with minimal modifications.
I'm not a purist, so I may keep studying up on it.
 
Saverio said:
I'm learning all of this out too but, I've been reading about a Ford 9" working in Mopar A-Body cars with minimal modifications.
I'm not a purist, so I may keep studying up on it.
Click to expand...

9" Ford is a real good strong rear. Just finding one that's the right length is the key.
 
This is the problem I've found at all the shops I've gone to, is that nobody really knows for sure what will work other than an a body. I want to keep my wheels. I just want a quicker gear w limited slip. The motor and trans are built nicely, the car has some power , shame w that rear end!
 
The A-body rear is 57-1/8" over all, drum to drum. Think early Broncos are close to that.
 
What kind / size wheels are those, anyway? Those look bad *** on your car, I'd want to keep them too. Lol
 
A Jeep Cherokee rear from a 4.0 is usually a Chrysler 8.25 rear end. The Grand Cherokee usually comes with a Dana rear. Avoid the Dana - Jeep people swap them out for the 8.25. The width is just a little wider - works fine on my 68 Barracuda. You will have to cut off the spring perches and move them from the top of the housing to the bottom. You can use the shock plates from the 7.25 with modifications, but I got 8 3/4 shock plates. You will also need to get u-bolts to fit the larger axle tubes. The Cherokee u-bolts will work.
Some of the Jeeps have Trac-Lock carriers with 3.55's. A lot of the Dakotas and Durangos also have the Trac-Lock.

Note: The Dakota and Durango rears are too wide! Most of them are 6-lug.

The rear that I used was from a 2000 Cherokee - 29 spline. Get the 96 or older 27 spline. I got a 92 Dakota 3.55 Trac-Lock for $50, so I had to change out the 29 spline axles for 27 spline. 91 Cherokee axles were $60 at Pull-a-Part. I kept the 9 inch drums on the rear. They are wider than the old a-body 9" a-body drums. Also, your e-brake cables will fit right into the new rear. Grand Cherokee disc brakes will fit on this rear if you choose to change them later. There are some really good threads on the forum for the disc upgrade. Oh, you will need to change out the driveshaft for a shorter one. I used a 78 Aspen that was on an 8.25 automatic.

Or, you can go with the Mustang, Ranger, or Explorer rear. I chose to keep mine Mopar.

I researched this for a long time. I bought an Explorer rear and ended up selling it. You might find a later model 8.25 that you don't have to change out the spring perches. I think some of the Diplomat style body will fit.

After all of my tongue-wagging, the bottom line is this: The only true bolt-in rear end for your car has to come from an a-body.

BTW - That looks more like a 8.25 than a 7.25! Measure the axle tube diameter for sure.
 
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