JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I think the way you did them really looks good. The dark caps were 71 only. I bet those were fun to paint without running the heck out of them!
1974 Dodge Dart Sport rebuild
- Thread starter Builderguy
- Start date
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Builderguy
Well-Known Member
I started on re-foaming and re-covering the front seats. Little bit of a PIA but doing it myself (okay the QC lady helped) saves a boatload of cash.
Small error on the hole location for the latch. Don't use the old seat cover as a guide for the hole, as it was wrong.
At least it is on the console side so it won't be seen. It was only 3/4" but still......
Small error on the hole location for the latch. Don't use the old seat cover as a guide for the hole, as it was wrong.
At least it is on the console side so it won't be seen. It was only 3/4" but still......
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Well I did it, I finally did it! I found something I like less than color sanding. Removing injected foam from a seat back. Back and forth, back and forth. scrape and dig, and crap flying everywhere. I probably could have just cut out the damaged area, but I had new foams so, they will get stripped and replaced. Probably smell better too!
On the plus side, I did find out what color the brake booster is supposed to be.
Survey says, goldish or whatever they call this coating. Maybe Zinc Dichromate or Cadmium Plating? IDK, it will be goldish when I get done.
On the plus side, I did find out what color the brake booster is supposed to be.
Survey says, goldish or whatever they call this coating. Maybe Zinc Dichromate or Cadmium Plating? IDK, it will be goldish when I get done.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
The seatbacks are a little more challenging than the seat bottoms. I installed new foams so I knew the covers would be a tight fit. Right now I need to stretch them around an inch or so to get a good wrap around the bottom. Might have to use a little heat to get the material to stretch. Not a problem, just an issue. A bigger issue is that the covers did not come with the control wires. Now I got these seats from a second party, so the wires might have simply been misplaced. Or, the covers don't come with these wires and you have to use your old ones. IDK, but the pockets for the two bottom wires were not cut to accept these wires. Slight modifications done and all will be fine. 
340six
King Of Bling
You do not get listing wires with covers. They are reused. You will have to make some.The seatbacks are a little more challenging than the seat bottoms. I installed new foams so I knew the covers would be a tight fit. Right now I need to stretch them around an inch or so to get a good wrap around the bottom. Might have to use a little heat to get the material to stretch. Not a problem, just an issue. A bigger issue is that the covers did not come with the control wires. Now I got these seats from a second party, so the wires might have simply been misplaced. Or, the covers don't come with these wires and you have to use your old ones. IDK, but the pockets for the two bottom wires were not cut to accept these wires. Slight modifications done and all will be fine.
View attachment 1716482187View attachment 1716482188View attachment 1716482189
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
The look is changing.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
that's quite a transformation 
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Another red "X" on the board. Upholstery is not my thing so it took a little bit, but it is done! On to finishing the dash.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Change in plans, I decided to finish the carb/kickdown linkage. I was not going to pay, over $150 for a 4 bbl kickdown rod. Nope, not going to happen!
Took my existing rod, and extended it 2 3/4", that is all it took. Tested it and it works fine, full engagement at WOT, and room for throttle return if the kickdown does not release (that is why there is a slot). I did not know that before digging into this whole kickdown thing. Anyway, here are the pics.
WOT
Throttle back to idle with kickdown held in full engagement. Throttle has plenty of room to return.
Took my existing rod, and extended it 2 3/4", that is all it took. Tested it and it works fine, full engagement at WOT, and room for throttle return if the kickdown does not release (that is why there is a slot). I did not know that before digging into this whole kickdown thing. Anyway, here are the pics.
WOT
Throttle back to idle with kickdown held in full engagement. Throttle has plenty of room to return.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Now it is dash time. I bought a new 4 x 10 front speaker but the mounting tabs are just a bit off. I cut out most of the original speaker and then mounted my new speaker to the old frame. Covered it with some speaker fabric and all is nice, so nice.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Back from the holiday weekend and back to work. Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving.
Removed the last few bits from the dash and prepped it for paint. I am not hiding the VIN, I am protecting it since this time I am not going to use the latex transfer as it is too dang expensive! Do you want to sell one at $80 or four at $40. It is your business but I won't be buying any. Anyway, once I finish going around the VIN tag and masking it, can prime and paint the dash. I ran a few samples to see what paint would match the existing finish and color. We will see how it turns out.
Oh yeah, we did get a little snow last night.
Removed the last few bits from the dash and prepped it for paint. I am not hiding the VIN, I am protecting it since this time I am not going to use the latex transfer as it is too dang expensive! Do you want to sell one at $80 or four at $40. It is your business but I won't be buying any. Anyway, once I finish going around the VIN tag and masking it, can prime and paint the dash. I ran a few samples to see what paint would match the existing finish and color. We will see how it turns out.
Oh yeah, we did get a little snow last night.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Did a little more digging on the net and I found a vin plate dry transfer for $35 offered by ECS. That is a bit more reasonable, SOLD. It is worth it not to tape off the vin plate and hope the paint colors match. Now I can just spray the entire dash. Happy Days are here again.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Got the dash locked in placed and painted. Very, very, close match to what was there. I color matched to the lower section to avoid sun fade, etc.
and I think it turned out better than I was expecting. I took a shot of the paint I used in case someone wants the same.
and I think it turned out better than I was expecting. I took a shot of the paint I used in case someone wants the same.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Started buffing the body. Wool buffing head first. Foam buffing pad when I get a little more time, to finish it off. Looking pretty good so far!
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Time to figure out the exhaust manifolds. I picked up a couple: the left is a 2869553 with the flange (I think this is a HP manifold 340/360) and the right is a 2465769 (which I think was for a late 60's 273/318). IDK, if someone knows for sure please chime it. As it is, I am still looking for the correct right side manifold. Always something! The 74 book lists a 3751393 on the right for a 74 Dart 360. If anyone has one, please let me know.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Forgot, finally got the speaker mounted in the dash.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Tore the instrument panel down and started cleaning it up. I can't do too much as it starts to run into $$$$$$, but I can wipe it down, clean/polish the lens, make sure all the gauges work, clean the odometer, and set it back to 00000.0 Luckily, I live in Michigan and my title does not list a milage as it is exempt, so rolling it back is allowed. Man, 20 years ago I knew these laws by heart, now I can't remember if it is exempt due to age or exceeding mechanical limits. Anyway, it might not be perfect but it will look pretty good, I hope! While it is out and accessible, I will re-wrap the wiring harness.
I thought it would have been cloth wrapped, but it is plastic.
I thought it would have been cloth wrapped, but it is plastic.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
The top pic shows an A body 318 manifold on the left. The one beside it might be a 340 manifold of some sort, but you need to flip it over and post another pic of it so we can better advise.
Builderguy
Well-Known Member
Yup, the one in the top pic is off the left side of a 1974 318 and has the ball/socket. I needed a left manifold that has the flange/gasket set up. The other one in the top pic is just what I need. It is a 2869553, I don't know what it came off but some literature says it is off a HP 340, early 70's Not big deal as it will work for me as long as it does not interfere with the kick down linkage, as it hangs outboard about another 1/2". The right side is the one I would like to change. It appears that the ball/socket connection is a little too loose. I don't remember the 73 RR connection being that loose. IDK.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Just so you are aware, the factory DS manifold for a '74 is only really different from the 340 you have in that it has the flanges for the heat stove like the 318 manifold.
I had the same 340 manifold you have and swapped to the '74 style so I could get a spark plug boot heat shield.
Doesn't really matter unless you are going for a complete OE look.
340six
King Of Bling
These are not for sale pictures are for reference only. I know you asked for 1974 360 but this is my late build 1973 340 car. Pictures are after a quick milling flat. After ported.
note) The spot we hit is very slight looks bad since paint was messed up. But was very slight.
note) The spot we hit is very slight looks bad since paint was messed up. But was very slight.
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