1996 Magnum 318 alternator question & Mounting battery in trunk

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gwmax65

Magnum V8 Mopar
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I've recently converted my '96 Magnum 318 (Pulled from a '96 dodge van) from the factory fuel injection to carbureted. I've kept the serpentine belt system, and am wondering how I should go about wiring the stock magnum alternator up to my '65 Plymouth Valiant 200? Assuming the amps on the stock magnum (serpentine belt driven) alternator is more than a LA belt driven alternator. Don't want to fry my whole wiring/charging system haha.

Also, I have to mount the battery in the back of the trunk because since I'm keeping the serpentine belt set-up, the power steering pump will be dead center in the way of the battery tray. How should I go about mounting & wiring my battery in the trunk of my '65 Valiant? I would guess I'm gonna need some very thick wiring for mounting it back there.
 
Start by doing a search of this forum

Next decide if you EVER plan on going to a drag strip because you'll need "certain things" back there to meet the rules. You either need a sealed (like Optima) battery in a plastic box, or you'll need "some other battery" in an approved metal battery box which is vented overboard, OR a sealed metal firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment.. AND you'll need a disconnect switch, which can "kill" the engine. This means a way of also killing the ignition or alternator field. I like the new heavy duty 4 pole switches

If you DON'T plan on this, you still should put the thing in safely, think about all that heavy acid in a box heading towards your head in a bad accident. In other words, needs to be strapped down and vented properly A disconnect is STILL a good idea

Wire size at least no2. You can run a heavy "eye to eye" (starter cable) from someplace on the engine / transmission to the crossmember or heavily bolted to the body. This will ground the engine to the body.

Several ways to "come up front."

You can hook to the starter directly, and jumper a wire up to the starter relay

You can hook directly to the starter relay and jumper back too the starter

You can buy various "feed through" insulated studs, and come up through the firewall somewhere,

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Alternator on those is still a "dual field" (isolated field.) You can use either a modern Mopar regulator (70 and later if good quality) or a 69 / earlier which is solid state replacement.

BUT some guys have claimed that some of the new alternators draw more field current and may need a heavier regulator. I'll have to find it, one of the members found a company selling regulators they claim does the job

This one came up in discussions

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc8313.aspx

.........and here it is...........the thread........

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=264759
 
I wont comment on the wiring part as dell has that covered, but if your magnum is out of a van, the power steering pump should be low enough to miss the batt. tray. I have this set up in a 72 dart and the tray was not moved. however, on an early a, there may not be as much room as the 72, so I don't know for sure. something to think about. dave.
 
Thanks guys, quite a late reply since it's now all said and done haha. The 318 Magnums been in the '65 Valiant 200 for almost a year now. I did find out that if I had the 318 magnum from a Dodge Ram/Dakota, the stock power steering pump would definitely be interfering with the battery's position from being too high. Unfortunately I had to cut away almost a full inch by (length) 2" of the lip where both ends of the frame are welded to each other so I could obtain clearance between the pump pulley+belt and the frame. So I guess I must have lucked out on the power steering position! However, I didn't luck out on the custom high pressure hose, that was fun to figure out how to get one made. All's going well with the set-up, but unfortunately pulling the 904 transmission out because of a bad input shaft seal, that will evidently be replaced. She'll be back up and running soon, anyways, thanks again!
 
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