273 adjustable rockers

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eestatic

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Hi FABO!
I'm getting a single ticking in my valve train since my 318 rebuild.

I re-used the stock stamped rocker arms w/new push rods with the comp 268 Hyd. cam.
The Stock engine at some point probably was sittin' for a while..[valves stuck?]...some of the push rods were sorta "Z" shaped/bent.
Got to thinking about stressed rocker arms...

Also got to thinking about the old 273 2/bbl sitting under a tarp.

Can the adjustable rocker arms/shaft assembly be used (with) push rods [assuming integrity ok] on the 318??
No head milling, just resurface during rebuild

And how does the adjustment process go?

Also, when I "wind" it up through first gear [some] & back off throttle before shifting, it seems I hear a "fluttering/BB's_in_can/rattly" sorta sound. My exhaust integrity is not the best at this point so can't exclusively rule out some of the noise exhaust related

Thanks FABO!
 
You can use the adjustable rockers with a hydraulic cam, but it will require different length pushrods, so I don't know if it's worth your while. Someone has a description of the adjustment process if you search.
 
Tighten down the adjuster until there is friction on the pushrod, then go 1/2 a turn more and lock it down! Yes, you need different pushrods!
 
Considering the possible wear in old stamped steel & upgrade w/similiar replacement vs reuse of adjustables + purchase of appropriate lenght push rods.

Pros

Cons
 
pinpoint the noisey lifter with a wooden hammer handle while idling or a stethoscope & take it out & open it up & clean it/reassemble/reinstall (take care not to bend the snap ring). wouldn't hurt to see if preload is .020 or more
 
Thanks for the input!
I'm leaning towards just replacing w/stock stamped steel...[kiss method] specially after thinking about the stresses from rocker arms bending push rods.
 
Note that some new lifters tick because the check valves in them seem to be pretty crappy anymore. The only cure is replacing them IMHO. Since these are new, that is what I would suspect more than anything.

Run the engine and warm it up for 2-3 minutes or so, and pull the valve covers and plugs. Turn the engine over by hand 1/4 turn at a time, and find the rockers for the cylinder that is ready to fire, then push down on each rocker/pushrod for that pair of valves. If you find one really loose and soft, that is your problem lifter; they all ought to be firm with little or no slack. After running for a 1 minute (usually a lot less time in actuality), the oil should have pumped the lifters up well and taken up the slack, and the check valves in the lifters should hold the oil for the 20-30 minutes it takes to do this procedure.
 
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