273 commando with carter afb 9510s

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trapster

trapster

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OK,
The idiot who owned my car before me decided that in order to save the valves he re-jetted the carb a couple of jets rich.

So I guess sacrificing the cylinder walls was a better thing.

Does anyone know what metering rods and jets I need to put the car back to stock.

Or better yet, what setup would be optimal for better performance.

Supposedly the engine has a 3/4 race cam in it, stock dual exhaust (cherry bombs) and an offy dual plane intake.

And I am in Florida.

I am also thinking about going to an Carter AFB 600cfm vac secondary carburetor, just for a little better performance.

Thanks
 
Sorry it is actually a carter afb 9510s which I believe is not a correct carb for this.

Actually I don't know what it is.
 
9510 was a hp 500 cfm carb for a Chevrolet. This means it has 2 step rod primary system. Pull the rods and measure the steps, 2 screws. Then you can get larger rods to lean the carb. I'd check and reset float level and drop first before I did anything.
 
Well the previous owner told me it was rejetted 2 steps rich, but I don't know if it was actually rejeted or drilled out.

I guess I need to look at the numbers on the jets to tell.
I was hoping someone would know what a stock configuration should be.

and the chevy part bothers me a little. I guess it should be a 9501 but I don't know what difference that makes.




The Late-Model Carter AFB
Later versions of the AFB were more developed and suitable for use on modern engines. Carter offered both general performance (9000 Series) and racing (Competition Series) lines. The 9000 Series carbs were designed for easy installation. Specific models were calibrated for GM, Ford, and Chrysler engines. These AFBs also featured electric chokes, simple linkage connections, ports for vacuum advance and PCV valve activation, and they were available with flow capacities of 400, 500, and 625 cfm. Competition Series AFBs were offered in 500, 625, and 750 cfm capacities with either a manual choke or none at all.

Carter 9000 series part numbers directly relate to flow ratings; a 9400 flows 400 cfm, a 9500 is a 500 cfm carburetor, and a 9625 flows 625 cubic feet of air per minute. Part numbers that end in the exact flow rating (i.e., zero or five) are designed for Chevrolet applications; adding 1 indicates Chrysler compatibility (for example, part number 9626 is a 625-cfm carb unit for Chrysler engines) and the addition of 2 refers to units designed for Ford (9627). Adding 10 to any of the basic part numbers indicates EGR provisions. The performance line also included a special carburetor listed as part number 3721. It had 575-cfm flow rating and was originally used on the high-performance 1964–1965 Corvette 327 cubic-inch engine.With the exception of the 400-cfm model, all of the 9000 Series AFBs contain 1-7/16-inch primary throttle bores and 1-11/16-inch secondary throttle bores. (The 400-cfm version has 1-7/16 inch secondary bores.) Venturi diameters range from 1-1/8 to 1-3/16 inch on the primary side and from 1-1/4 to 1-9/16 inch on the secondaries.
 
Got a factory 600 Carter on my old 67 273 - if I remember correctly it's model 4160???
Did some Google searches and found some web site that had that info for the year car
you had -- not on my normal computer so don't have the link for you. You can pick up
Eldelbrok 600's cheap - basically same carb. Got a couple of those I'd sell you but you
probably can find those cheap on Craig's list around your area or at a swap meet. Tried
both and the both gave same performance.
 
I suggest installing an O2 sensor and a lean/rich indicator. Otherwise, you are flying blind. I got several cheap on ebay. Using the cylinder walls as an O/F indicator is an expensive meter.

Modern engines last much longer, or at least the rings do. One important reason is much better control of O/F.
 
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