2nd Gen Barracuda Strip/Street Brawler

[6pak2go]

The engine is a 540" stoker based on a MP mega block, 4.50" bore, 4.25" stroke. Indy Big EZ-1 heads, 325cc intake port volume, cleaned up by Brain Hafliger at IMM engines. Brian spec'd a Comp solid roller for pump gas, [email protected], around .700" lift at the valve. I'm looking for 10.0's at 135mph in bad air at 3400lbs.
Street Car .

 

[QuintinMotorCompany]

That's exactly where Im heading for my dart, maybe Ill see you a dragweek in a couple years after I get my dart done......:glasses7::glasses7:

how much hp did it make?

 

[KENTON]

Love this thread, nice work.

 

[6pak2go]

On the tail panel, I used reflective maroon tape to simulate a continuous bar tail light on both top and bottom to fill in the horse shoe. Here's a pic to show it normal and one with the lights off so the camera flash shows the light reflection as seen from behind at night. I think the effect is pretty cool. The camera flash is so bright that it looks pink, but with a normal head light, it looks just like a tail light.

Saturday, I started on the front.

 

[adiffrentcity]

I like the look of the tape. Great idea!

 

[67 prostreet gt]

Ok questions

Engine combination?

Y a mono leaf with caltracs

How did u get into the SEMA show?

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[4spdragtop]

That red stripe and silver is gorgeous. Great work

 

[CudaChris67]

cool idea, i like the tape

 

[6pak2go]

Ok questions

Engine combination?

Y a mono leaf with caltracs

How did u get into the SEMA show?

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1. See post #51, top of page 3.
2. Because that's what Caltracs are designed for. I bought -1" ride height to lower the rear due to the taller tire (29") I'll be using.
3. I have a friend that writes for SEMA Action Network (SAN). He got me a ticket.

 

[6pak2go]

It's been a good week in the shop. Got the rear end and suspension in and the wheel back space measured. Now I can order the wheels. :supz: At least one end is almost a roller. The rear end is just clamped to the spring for now. Pinion angle will be set when all the weight is in the car.

 

[67 prostreet gt]

Nice job man that thing looks killer that 10.0 number is very doable because the milder version of that motor is wat is in my dart and my dart weighing 2570 pounds should do 8.9 9.0 street car too

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[67 prostreet gt]

And 2570 is with 15x15 steel wheels in the back and 15x4 steel front wheels

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[mosleyme]

It's been a good week in the shop. Got the rear end and suspension in and the wheel back space measured. Now I can order the wheels. :supz: At least one end is almost a roller. The rear end is just clamped to the spring for now. Pinion angle will be set when all the weight is in the car.

How are the leaf spring sliders attached to the frame? I have a set I am thinking I will use...

 

[6pak2go]

How are the leaf spring sliders attached to the frame? I have a set I am thinking I will use...

They are welded to the frame using an angle cut piece of 2x3 tubing left over from the frame connectors. The angle is found by running a line from the front spring eye to the rear spring eye per AFCO's instructions.

 

[Abodybomber]

They are welded to the frame using a angle cut piece if 2x3 tubing left over from the frame connectors. The angle is found by running a line from the front spring eye to the rear spring eye per AFCO's instructions.

I hear these work well,subscribed.

 

[6pak2go]

When I bought the rear end years ago, I was told it was narrowed for a mini-tubbed A body. Well it's dead on. A 10" wheel with a 5.5 backspace fits perfect. That was the good news. The bad news was that the wheel hits the rear disc brake caliper. :banghead:
So...off comes my new 12" WillWood rear disc brake setup and back to the 10" x 2.5" rear drums. And the extra weight. :wack:

WillWood has a low profile set that will work, but I can't spend the extra cash right now. Future upgrade.

 

[6pak2go]

I decided to paint the valve covers with a black wrinkle finish. I think it adds a little more contrast to the engine. While I had the valve covers off, I was admiring the T&D offset rocker arms that Brian @ IMM engines spec'd. Quality pieces.

I tried to mock up the spool mount '74 K-Frame to check the engine mounts and the oil pump clearance. Things got ugly here too. The billet oil pump cover is too wide to work with the driver side Schumacher mount. So I decide I'll have to go to an engine plate. Ordered up a AR Engineering unit designed for an A-Body. It will allow me to move the engine location a little bit to provide some steering drag link clearance in the oil pan tunnel. I thought I would be able to use the pass. mount as a limiter required when using a engine plate. More on this later.

Next, the external pick up line fitting is hitting the K-frame and the oil line needs clearance around the motor mount. So, out comes the cut off wheel and let the grinding and trimming begin!

 

[6pak2go]

When the engine plate showed up, I figured I better add the headers, steering box, and draglink to the mix. I had to grind on the steering box a bit, just knocked off a few sharp corners. Torsion bars will be very tight, as is the steering column. Draglink is worst than I thought, engine needs to go down about 1/2" but back about 1" to get clearance. Pics tell the story. This will have to wait until I can get it in the car. I probably will have to mod the trans mount. Does it ever end? lol!

Anyway, back to the oil pick up line. After completely cutting out the driver side engine mount and getting a extra 45 and 90 degree fitting, it looks like it will work. The steering box mount has been compromised with the engine mount gone so that will require some fab work to box it back in. So maybe I'm done? HA HA, read on.

With the addition of the engine plate comes the alternator mount issue.

 

[6pak2go]

AR Eng sells an alternator mount for the engine plate that mounts it low close where the fuel pump was. So I get it installed only find out the lower adj bar hits the K-frame on the rise for the strut rod mount. :banghead:

After walking away for a few days, I decided I didn't have the fab skills to alter the K-frame anymore to make it work. At this point, I'm running out of time and patience so I ordered a QA1 tubular K-frame that has a lot more clearance just where I need it. So that's where I am now.

I figured I needed to have some success and get something accomplished to make myself feel better, so I went back to doing stuff I know. Interior and wiring. Engine install will be last.

So, I finished up the window adjustments, weatherstripping, heat insulation, carpet, door panels, rear panels, and trim. I had to cut the arm rests off to clear the roll swing out bars.
Next up, instrument cluster, dash wiring, and steering column.

Yes, I feel better! At least it's a roller now. Drag Week is only 3 months away now and I need some serious seat time to adjust to clutch, suspension, discover and work out the bugs. Not panicking yet!

 

[6pak2go]

Somewhere in there I added the grille and installed the back window with the '68 trim mouldings. I used a template I found on here a few months back to drill the clip holes. A big thanks to whoever posted it! It was a big help.

 

[famous bob]

Somewhere in there I added the grille and installed the back window with the '68 trim mouldings. I used a template I found on here a few months back to drill the clip holes. A big thanks to whoever posted it! It was a big help.

absolutely beautiful ! silver is great, would have been the color for me, if mine wasn`t already a painted basket case when I got it. almost a mirror build to mine. yours is definitely a lot nicer tho. didn`t rotissery mine , at 67 yrs, i didn`t want to take the time.
how much h.p. did the engine make ? your motor is a little bigger than mine. I went w/ fuel inj.-505" standard ported heads 3: 73 -727 3500 stall. love the fast backs, was my first new car when I was young, wanted onother ever since:cheers:!-------bob

 

[6pak2go]

A little update. I'm knee deep in wiring. I cleaned up and thoroughly checked over the stock wiring harnesses and connectors. They were in great shape, so I re-used them. I did all the little updates, like the ammeter and main power circuit bypass to make sure. I've built all new harnesses for the start, run, ignition, and alternator circuits using the appropriate gauge wire, so no worries there. It looks ragged in the pics, but I'll tidy it up after I get the factory gauge cluster installed.

Both the coil and MSD ignition are mounted under the dash on the cowl. The firewall is fully insulated and plenty of ventilation so heat shouldn't be a problem. I saw plenty of cooked ignition components during last years Drag Week.

I built a little switch and light panel to fit the radio openings so I'm not cutting the original dash. Same reason I didn't weld up all the firewall holes before paint. The car could be taken back stock with minimal effort.

The switch panel controls the main power, ignition, and fuel pump. They are relays for clutch-in starting safety, clutch two-step and line lock release, and the oil pressure fuel pump/ignition safety switch. If the oil pressure drops below 5psi, they're killed.

Starting circuit activates a Ford style relay in the trunk so the main starter cable is disabled once the car is running. Alternator charge wiring is also relay controlled by the emergency power switch or the dash kill switch.

I also managed to get the front seats and the Autometer gauges in. The two gauges on the cowl will be covered by the aero scoop and only seem from inside the cockpit. Lots of time consuming, small detail work.

 

[DusterDaddy]

This project is shocking! It looks more like a spacecraft being built at NASA than a car...Precision!
Makes me feel silly even posting my shade tree project.

 

[6pak2go]

This project is shocking! It looks more like a spacecraft being built at NASA than a car...Precision!
Makes me feel silly even posting my shade tree project.

Thank you for the kind words. Actually, I work for an aerospace company as an electrical test engineer, so I can't help myself.

 

[famous bob]

Thank you for the kind words. Actually, I work for an aerospace company as an electrical test engineer, so I can't help myself.

It shows in your work, beautiful!