318 Build Up?

[321Scamp]

I was wanting some info on what I can do to get my 318 to perform at its best without having to tear it down too much. It is already bored .20 over (321 cid), stock heads, very mild cam, 4bbl., edelbrock performer intake, stock exhaust manifolds, 2.25 dual exhaust, Flowmaster 40, 2.45 gears (soon will be 3.21 sure grip), and 904 AT. I now I can't get it to run like my dads 340 6 pak T/A, but I want it to run respectivly to a 340 being a 318. Should I build a 340 or just go for a 360 crate?

 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

3.21s will be a limiting factor imo. Since 318s aren't very torquey they need lower gears to get rollin and revin. I would recommend getting a 360crate myself. I have a decently built 318. It's cost me $1500 in the rebuilt motor and should be high 13s my next outing at high altitude, granit thats with a high end/stall converter, 3.91s and some tinkering. Its deadly reliable, its been my daily driver for a full year now, it does get chilly here in the desert during the winter, and right now it's 110* and she gets me where i need to go, and does hold it's own at the track. It's a very baisc buildup, some 360 heads, decent cam, and a performer rpm makes up the top end. Bottom end is stock rebuild, .030over.

If you were in your shoes with what you have. I would, sell the Performer intake for a Performer RPM, you can get about $100 for the Peformer. I'm very happy with my cam, its a Comp hydraulic, .480lift / 280 duration. Make sure you check your clearances, and a pair of '302' cast heads. Somewhere in the 3,000stall range converter and some 3.73s if you can get 'em for your rear...or 3.91 if your up for 'em. And a pair of headers, imo you'd be looking at mid 14s...ish. Of course depending on the weather, i'd be lookin at mid 13s if the d/a wasnt so high right now :cussing:

Heres my teen playing with a modded 340. X heads, cam, single plane, same stall, 3.91s, drag radials. his best for the night was 14.6, mine was 14.3. You can see i'm just kinda walking off the line for the first 20feet or so and it wakes up and goes. Thats where the new converter comes in :headbang: It's full weight (3,600lbs with me in it) and at 5,100ft d/a ](*,)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/goodysgotacuda/th_Goodydrags_may192006f.jpg

out of curiosity, whats pop's T/A run at the track?

 

[Lars]

Little teen sounds good GGC!

 

[321Scamp]

I know it is more work than I want to do, but I thought of swaping the crank for a 3.51 crank. With my bore, that would put at 341 cid. Then I would have to change heads and so on and on.... That is just too much tear down than I want to have to do. I was looking at the TTI headers, but I don't know it they will fit like they say they will. I agree that the crate would be the easy way to get what I looking for. May be I should wait and see what the new gear set will do for me. I don't know what I want to do.

Dads car don't see the track. It is a fully original T/A with only 45,000 miles on it sitting on the original Poly Glass GTs.

 

[rumblefish360]

I was wanting some info on what I can do to get my 318 to perform at its best without having to tear it down too much. It is already bored .20 over (321 cid), stock heads, very mild cam, 4bbl., edelbrock performer intake, stock exhaust manifolds, 2.25 dual exhaust, Flowmaster 40, 2.45 gears (soon will be 3.21 sure grip), and 904 AT. I now I can't get it to run like my dads 340 6 pak T/A, but I want it to run respectivly to a 340 being a 318. Should I build a 340 or just go for a 360 crate?

Goody got a nice real street combo. Looking good goody.

A swap to the 302 heads is a good idea. Theres alos magnum heads to consider. OR a cheaper way would be to pocket port the current heads with larger valves.
The TTI headers have RAV reviews here.
Save the money on the stroker and invest in the TTI headers and better heads.
I also agree that the 3.21 are a main limiting factor in any real get up and go for the car. There real nice cruisers with the abilty to get up and go once your on the Hwy. for passing.

 

[Valcuda318]

318
.30 over
fully ported j heads with 1.88/1.6 valves
284/484 mp cam
ld4b intake
750 dp
carter fuel pump
spitfire headers
2-1/2 exhaust xpipe
4 speed/custom 10 inch clutch
3.23 gears

13.71@101mph in my 64 valiant

keep the 318 and get some heads and a good size cam, etc.... you can build a 318 the same as any other engine... onnly downfall is you need good flowing heads because they come with sucky heads and you need to get the compression up with either popup 11;0 pistons keith black makes em or possibly get some 302 heads and a standard piston will keep some decent compression then...

jeez everyone is so down on 318's funny part is people build ford 5.0's to run like crazy and they have less cubes... keeep the 318 be different.... :thumbup:

 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

318
.30 over
fully ported j heads with 1.88/1.6 valves
284/484 mp cam
ld4b intake
750 dp
carter fuel pump
spitfire headers
2-1/2 exhaust xpipe
4 speed/custom 10 inch clutch
3.23 gears

13.71@101mph in my 64 valiant

keep the 318 and get some heads and a good size cam, etc.... you can build a 318 the same as any other engine... onnly downfall is you need good flowing heads because they come with sucky heads and you need to get the compression up with either popup 11;0 pistons keith black makes em or possibly get some 302 heads and a standard piston will keep some decent compression then...

Did you ever figure out what the air - D/A was for that last night you ran? Any weight on the car? Just curious, looking at 64 valiant weights it says they are 2,800-3,000lbs. Say with driver 3,100lbs....or so.....your MPH for Weight shows 249rwhp. My car was dynoed at 240rwhp months and months ago (since been tinkered with, and at 5,300ft d/a) and is 3,600lbs with me in it trapping at 96mph (.....at 5,100ft elevation). Same calculator says I'm running 249rwhp for that weight/mph.. You Car definately runs very well, I wish i could afford some port work by RyanJ but boy are those prices high. I'm sure you get what you pay for though.

jeez everyone is so down on 318's funny part is people build ford 5.0's to run like crazy and they have less cubes... keeep the 318 be different.... :thumbup:

Says the guy's thats 318 was for sale hardly a week ago

:toothy7:

 

[321Scamp]

How much change would be involved in putting on the 302 heads? Those are the 85-91 pre-magnum heads, right? I read from an artical from Mopar Muscle (Sept. 2000) that they was able to get 215 rear wheel hp with a cam change and performer 4bbl. intake, but it was a '85 318 in a Dart. The valves were still stock 1.75/1.50 and no porting. Another article from a different Mopar Muscle (November 2003) in a stock 68 318 2bbl Cuda headers and 3" pipes, 305 TQ/ 317 HP. Could a 340 cam and headers with 3" exhaust be a good up grade using stock heads?

 

[usdart]

Direct bolt on, all you have to do is drill and tap the smog ports and install 1/4 by 20 allen head screws in them. With locktite of course.

 

[rumblefish360]

3 inchs is way to much.
2-1/4 pipe till 300 HP
2-1/2 for 300+ hp for max effect.

 

[BoredandStroked]

Thats right you only need 2 1/2 inches unless you are building a nice engine with over 400HP. I am wondering though do you have to drill and tap the smog ports on 302 heads for a 318?

 

[usdart]

I do believe the 302's all have the smog ports, or at least mine did, they came off a 91 318 Dakota engine. If not, good news! one less thing to do huh!.

 

[Valcuda318]

lol goody, I ran my time on 215/70/14's.... also I have not tuned out a stumble I have and theres alot of tuning left to do... once I get my chassis and tuning worked out look for 12's....