318 combo help

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I'd like to address the HARD BLOCK issue. Maybe someone can chime in if I'm wrong on this. I thought "hard block" was when they filled the water jackets with basically cement to give a drag race engine's cylinders more strength. If that's the case I've never heard of one living on the street with no water around the cylinders. I think I read this in How to hot rod a mopar small block. I'm going to try and dig it out and check.
 
It is. The way it reads, I would assume it's only 1/2 full so streetability shouldn't be an issue.
 
I didn't see if anyone here said, but the cam timing numbers you are using are .050, you need to add 15 deg to that to get the "correct" ivc for the calculator. I come up with 8.228.
 
moturbopar said:
I didn't see if anyone here said, but the cam timing numbers you are using are .050, you need to add 15 deg to that to get the "correct" ivc for the calculator. I come up with 8.228.
Click to expand...

Depends on the calculator.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
I'd like to address the HARD BLOCK issue. Maybe someone can chime in if I'm wrong on this. I thought "hard block" was when they filled the water jackets with basically cement to give a drag race engine's cylinders more strength. If that's the case I've never heard of one living on the street with no water around the cylinders. I think I read this in How to hot rod a mopar small block. I'm going to try and dig it out and check.
Click to expand...

You are right about the hard block. This motor is hard blocked tall fill half off. That's the part that gives me hope that I can run this on the street.

I'm going to run a 26 inch aluminum dual 1 inch tube radiator with the ford contour electric fans. The fans are said to flow 3400 cfm so it is my hope I can cool the engine enough for it to be happy on the street. If not I might have to build a fun cheap drag car.

Thank you for you input and if you have more information please share.
 
moturbopar said:
I didn't see if anyone here said, but the cam timing numbers you are using are .050, you need to add 15 deg to that to get the "correct" ivc for the calculator. I come up with 8.228.
Click to expand...
Thanks moturbopar. Do I just add 15 degrees to the intake close number from my cam card to correct this? Another variable I'm not sure how to use with this calculator is the 1.6 ratio rockers.

The cam card numbers are with 1.5 ratio. I'm not sure how this effects the valve close number but it seems like it would have some effect.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Depends on the calculator.
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I was using the same calculator he used, still a good idea to use numbers that are close to correct.

Anyways you can go with a cam such as the XS282S10 with the lobe sep being 110 and icl being 106 that allows more pressure to bleed off even with less duration than the cam you have now.
 
Thanks guys. I've been thinking about a custom grind solid roller that would allow me to really nail things down for the cam and the compression issue. I think talking with the right cam grinder about how the car is set up and will be used might also be helpful. The right roller grind may help flatten the torque curve and make this more street friendly.

Do you guys think this is a good approach?
 
you can get a close with math. figure the 278 is at .006, and you are on a 99 deg ICL
278 / 2 = 139 - 99 = 40 + 180 =220. 278 - 220 = 58 ivc

So with math you come up with 58 deg ivc. The KB calculator want you to add 15 deg to the .050 ivc from the cam card, so 44.5 +15 deg is 59.5 deg which is what I used in the calculator. so what number is correct? Dont really know unless you degree the cam and it probably wont be the same as what you get above.
now the xs282 deg properly has an IVC of 67. That w
 
mopar79sean said:
The comtec .075 steel gasket puts me at 8.312 dynamic compression ratio.
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Those gaskets often require a certain finish to be used. Is this the case with that gasket? Also that is a bit of a radical drop in ratio.
 
If you use the United Engine calculator, and it appears you did, you need to add 15 degrees to the intake valve closing event and it appears you did not. That will help your situation.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you use the United Engine calculator, and it appears you did, you need to add 15 degrees to the intake valve closing event and it appears you did not. That will help your situation.
Click to expand...

I wondered if I had that wrong. I'll recalculate.
 
Adding 15 degrees put the dynamic into a pretty sweet spot for pump gas. 8.227 with the .039 head gasket.

I have to say I'm learning a lot from this discussion.
 
mopar79sean said:
Adding 15 degrees put the dynamic into a pretty sweet spot for pump gas. 8.227 with the .039 head gasket.

I have to say I'm learning a lot from this discussion.
Click to expand...

That makes more sense. That's a big cam.
 
What do you guys think about the stealth intake with this cam. RPM range for the cam is 3000-7,000 and the intake is idle-6800.

One thing I like about the stealth that is on there is it has a special thermo coating on the valley and it has a high temp black coating on the exterior.
 
The Stealth is a cracker jack intake. Go for it.
 
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