318 converter with a 360

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Freezerman

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I am replacing my 318 with a mild 360. Would it be worth buying a high dollar torque converter or will the 318 converter do the job?

stock bottom end 1977 360
x heads that have been milled at some point to 68cc
comp cams XE268H
340 manifolds
3.23 rear gear

I am using a B&M flexplate

Thanks
 
if I'm not mistaken, the 318 is internally balanced and the 360 is externally balanced

that means the 318 has a "zero balance" torque converter, where the 360 has a "weighted" torque converter

so, a high dollar converter is not needed, but a 318 unit will still not do
(that came is advertised as working with a stock converter, and those gears should help)

if money is tight I would look for a used stocker from a 360
 
Thanks for the advice on if I need an expensive converter. You are right about the balance. That is why I got the B&m flexplate, so I can use a neutral balance. I'm hoping the 360 will make the 318 unit stall just a little higher.
 
Gotcha, your using one of those Cresent moon shaped flex plates

I think if all things are the same, the same converter behind a more powerful engine should stall higher
 
I'm also doing this swap and I thought I had it all ready to go until I read this thread. It got me searching as I heard all that was needed was a b&m flex plate 10239. From what I've read from others who have done the swap keeping the 318 converter is to use the b&m flexplate and use a pilot knob adapter. Use of the adapter is only required if you have the 60-67 1.55 pilot knob and the 68+ 1.8 pilot hole. When taken into consideration price wise ,flex plate $100 & pilot adapter $40 it seems better just to buy a new converter . I'm using a 68+ 904 & a 74 360 so my pilot knob and hole should match and of course the 318 converter give me a slightly higher stall for free. Here is a link to the adapter http://m.ebay.com/itm/Torqueflite-9...Converter-Pilot-68-Crank-Recess-/221727266512
 
I will have to check but I'm pretty sure mine is newer than 67, thanks.
 
Yes, it is worth it. It is even more worth it to do it once. (I am too lazy to pull a transmission twice) If you can't afford a brand new "good" converter, hit the classifieds. I would target 2800-3200 rpm stall in a 9.5" configuration. Skip off the shelf 10+" units.
 
Yes, it is worth it. It is even more worth it to do it once. (I am too lazy to pull a transmission twice) If you can't afford a brand new "good" converter, hit the classifieds. I would target 2800-3200 rpm stall in a 9.5" configuration. Skip off the shelf 10+" units.

Put a good converter in now if possible. Today I am installing a Turbo Action S800 10" 3200-3400 behind my Magnum 360. I am changing the cam to a 234/236 @.050 and need a good converter for the combo to be right. I wish I would of done the converter the first time.
My brother runs a 2500 Turbo Action in his 66 Dart Mild 360 3.55 gear street car and the car is a rocket when the pedal is pushed. Drives like grandma's car when cruising.
I gave my combo to Turbo Action, Paul Forte and took his recommendation. One week later the converter was at my door.
 
Yes, it is worth it. It is even more worth it to do it once. (I am too lazy to pull a transmission twice) If you can't afford a brand new "good" converter, hit the classifieds. I would target 2800-3200 rpm stall in a 9.5" configuration. Skip off the shelf 10+" units.

You can not just arbitrarily pick a stall and expect to be a match.It will definitely work but will
not be optimum.
Send all your specs to a good converter co. like Dynamic and they will build it specifically for
your combination,and it will cost a bit.
 
Use the 318 converter and B&M flexplate. Those 318 converters have quite a decent stall on their own.
 
That's what I was thinking of trying with the 318 converter. I know a custom converter would be the "best" but the car will be a cruiser with some "spirited" driving. I will never have it on the track. The $300 to $500 I could save can buy a lot of other necessary parts.
 
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