318 or 360? very low budget

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justthatguy

justthatguy

Josh(69 Valiant)
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
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Location
Danville, VA
Hey everyone, the other day while stumbling in the barns on my family's property, I came across the gold mine my dad built up of LA parts. I found a set of 340 heads(still in plastic!) and 5 or 6 360/340 intakes for 4 barrels. I wanted to put something a little hotter in my Valiant for a while now, and possibly turn it into a street/track car, but I have been at a loss for an engine, and now that I've come across a set of heads and a couple intakes, my question is, what block do I go with? I'm assuming lots of parts for the LA engines interchange, and since you have to give an arm and a leg for 340 blocks, I'm wondering if I would be better off finding a 360 block, or going with a 318 block, as one could almost trip over them in the local yards. I want to shoot for 300-320 hp, and at least 270 lbs of torque. I'm only in high school with a very low income job, so I would like to achieve this as cheaply as humanly possible.

So, FABO, what do I do?
 
the cost difference in 360 vs. 318 in nothing compared to the power differences. Since your obviously willing to put a little time and effort into the swap, 360 will put you ahead in power/torque and cost. If you must absolutly positivly have to scrimp on money, save for a few months and go 360 instead of buying a 318 because thats what you have money for right this second. Did he have any 318 blocks in the parts pile? If so, sell a few of them and theres your money for the 360. You should be able to find one in a local yard for 300 or under i would assume.
 
He has a poly 318 and a low mile slant sitting in the field, that may net enough for the block.
 
Either will get you 300+hp but ya 360 would be a better choice, if on a tight budget look for a running 318/360/5.9 and spend your money on a cam 262-268 range, 650 carb, headers and Duals will get you 280-320hp. Gears, shift kit and stall speed wouldn't hurt.
 
Is your Valiant a V8 now? If it's a slant you'll have to budget for at least some conversion mounts, a different trans and a some other odds & ends. As far as engine goes, a 360 will make those numbers a whole lot easier and remain very street friendly, as in daily driver friendly :D.
 
both are very solid platforms and would go best parts available for your budget
 
It's currently a slant car, that met it's untimely end at my hands on the freeway in 110 degree heat(it broke and the /6 really isn't worth fixing). I planned on possibly dropping a 4 speed in it, as I was considering a street/track car, though I have 2 727s, a 904, and a 3 speed laying around. I am also thinking about putting a Ford 9" in, since people here decide that an 8 3/4 is worth more than my house. I will more than likely go V8, though transmission is still floating around right now.
 
You might consider an A body 8 1/4,if you decide to run a automatic .
 
get an 8.8 ford rear cheapest to find ,theres a thread on here somwhere for the install.a pretty stock 4 barrel 360 running good will make 300 ft lbs easy...
 
I might run one of the 727s with a manual valve body. I need to get the engine straight before I start on that though.
 
Here is my take on it.

Skip the 5.9 magnum engines since you have "LA" heads which will not work with a Magnum block. Search for a 360 and use the 727.

You will need the swap engine mounts, drive shaft, radiator and maybe a B&M flex plate to connect the external balance 360 to the possible internally balanced converter. That by the way is a cheap expense. Cutting down the current driveshaft is also inexpensive.

It is possible to run 12's with box stock 340 heads. Though it'll take a extra expense of a good converter, springs and a gear set. IMO, the "LA" engine is the way to go.

What intakes do you have on hand?

Sell all extra parts for cash to roll over into the build.
 
I have a 340 stock intake that I'm planning on using. The others look to be stock pieces from smog 360s, so they're probably useless. I have the drive shaft and radiator, and the engine mounts shouldn't be to hard to get.
 
LOL, I'm looking for a spreadbore 360/340 intake. I'll PM ya in a second.

The stock intake can carry you to low 13's without the need to create a weird combo due to the hampering/limitations of the stock intake. For a street strip set up, I myself like the TQ carb and Intake with headers, 2.02 heads and a 2000-6000 rpm cam. Very effective, reasonable mileage. When I open the hood, it is lack luster to the on lookers but presents a surprise on the road.
 
check out speedway motors have mounts that install 340-360 in /6 car for 66.99
part#720-4695 may help you out some.
jim
 
You say this now but trust me you will want more power.

Get you motor straight
Get you trans straight
Get you rear end straight

The get a radiator(I got a alum 26" 2 core direct fit from champion for 200 bucks)
schumacher conversion mounts(best money I ever spent)
Drive shaft modified
Get you a good exhaust and you will have a nice engine/setup

Get disc brake trust me I am driving a 73 duster 4 wheel manual drums with a pretty stout 360 and it sucks you cant stock worth a S%&^.
 
I know the answer.
A 318 vs 360 on a budget costs the same.....because everything but the bore/stroke is essentially the same.

I prefer the cubic inches for the easy torque, unless the car is originally a 318 car and the end goal is not a performance effort, more than just a street/highway car (like my 74 Dart Sport 318/904/7.25 with 2.76 gears!!)....It costs roughly $1000 in parts unless you replace pistons and have rods worked, and do machine work....so try to find something that you can just re-ring and re-bearing, re-oil pump, and re-timing chain., gasket, freeze plug and seal.

I recently bought, rebuilt, and am driving a nice running 318 I have a little over $800 tied up in.....I would guess it to be around 280-320hp.....it will run away from a stock 2003 SS Silverado.....with a claimed 350hp.

:bball:
 
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