318 pulley alignment

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Success! Thanks again.

I pulled the damper back off and had a close look at everything. I found that my bolt would not easily thread into the crank, so I cleaned up the threads best I could without having a tap/die that size, and I got it moving more freely. I think it was binding and giving me a high torque reading before actually seating the damper. I lubed everything back up, re-assembled and torqued it together, and now I have only maybe .040" between the timing marks and the damper, and my pullys are well aligned.

My only question is: How far should you be able to seat the damper onto the end of the crank, before relying on the bolt to pull it in? I could barely get mine started, and only had just over 2 turns of the bolt engaged before I had to start tightening... and crossed my fingers that I wasn't going to strip out those two threads.
 

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ive always taken a piece of wood and a BFH and tapped it on until i could get 3 or 4 turns on the bolt before cranking it down.
 
Yeah, 4 turns would have made me a lot more comfortable. I did use a block of wood, but only had a SFH :)
 
swinger said:
Yeah, 4 turns would have made me a lot more comfortable. I did use a block of wood, but only had a SFH :)
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lol, well if it went all the way in without a huge amount of effort then you are good to go. hopefully it wont be coming off for a long time :D
 
abodyjoe said:
thats fine.. but its not the correct way. like i said it may or may not work.. is the ratio correct now that they are mis matched? i doubtr it.. get the parts and do it correctly.. too many half assed set ups out there that cause problems. do it right the first time.. the parts are out there and not that hard to get.. all posting pics of a mis-matched mess like that does is add confusion in my opinion. people need to know how the pulleys and belts are supposed to run.

and it looks like the OP has the correct non-a/c pulleys and brackets already..
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This car ran high 9's and never threw a belt so Why would I change anything with the pulleys?
As for my pics, At least they showed that the Crank Pulley was sticking out way too far on the OP's Car.
 
swinger said:
Success! Thanks again.

I pulled the damper back off and had a close look at everything. I found that my bolt would not easily thread into the crank, so I cleaned up the threads best I could without having a tap/die that size, and I got it moving more freely. I think it was binding and giving me a high torque reading before actually seating the damper. I lubed everything back up, re-assembled and torqued it together, and now I have only maybe .040" between the timing marks and the damper, and my pullys are well aligned.

My only question is: How far should you be able to seat the damper onto the end of the crank, before relying on the bolt to pull it in? I could barely get mine started, and only had just over 2 turns of the bolt engaged before I had to start tightening... and crossed my fingers that I wasn't going to strip out those two threads.
Click to expand...
Glad to see it all fixed.
 
This car ran high 9's and never threw a belt so Why would I change anything with the pulleys?
Click to expand...

thats wonderful.. glad it works for you. it just shouldn't be used as a reference because its wrong is all i'm saying.
 
swinger said:
Success! Thanks again.

I pulled the damper back off and had a close look at everything. I found that my bolt would not easily thread into the crank, so I cleaned up the threads best I could without having a tap/die that size, and I got it moving more freely. I think it was binding and giving me a high torque reading before actually seating the damper. I lubed everything back up, re-assembled and torqued it together, and now I have only maybe .040" between the timing marks and the damper, and my pullys are well aligned.

My only question is: How far should you be able to seat the damper onto the end of the crank, before relying on the bolt to pull it in? I could barely get mine started, and only had just over 2 turns of the bolt engaged before I had to start tightening... and crossed my fingers that I wasn't going to strip out those two threads.
Click to expand...


glad ya got it..

for the install you should really use a balancer install tool, that would give ya better thread endangerment to pull the balancerr in.... don't hit it with a hammer..lol thats not very good for the bearings...


4



[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex_yJ_V5UH8"]Harmonic Balancer Installer Tool Instructions - How to ToolCast from BoxWrench - YouTube[/ame]
 
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