318 rebuild

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dartman74

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need some info from everyone.

I am going to get the 318 rebuilt in my 74 Dart. It is still an all numbers matching car and I want to keep it that way but I would still like to add a little pep into her step. I know how to fix stuff but when it comes to talking the language, i am lost!! I know it is probably a dumb question but I need to learn. Suggestions would be helpful. I have the MOPAR small block rebuild book and I am sure that I could do it (never done it and a little nervous about doing it on the original motor)but I want to get more power out of it ( not to the point of nearly blowing the thing but just enough to make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside :). This is a sentimentel car to me 3rd generation owner and has been in the family since new. Just got it last week and she NEEDS WORK!! Long term project but well worth it to me. Also, what kind of a price would I be looking at? located in Raleigh,NC
 
Price will be subjective because it can really vary by quite a bit.
A respectable street bruiser in my world would use these things in a 318...

*Pocket ported 302 casting heads with a 3 angle valve job and springs matched to the cam. These heads are common on 1985-91 318 equipped vehicles. 360 heads would offer a flow increase but at the trade off being lower compression unless you plan on milling the heads or using higher compression pistons. Best off with these 318 style heads for a basic build IMO..
*Decent dual plane 4bbl intake, such as the Edelbrock Performer would be OK. A 600cfm carb will be fine as well, the Holley or Edelbrock will be fine. Preference for carbs is as subjective as choosing a woman as far as brand names go. Use a 1/2 inch 4 hole spacer if ya feelin fancy.
*Headers! The cheap ones work fine on a 318. Been there, done that!
*Windage tray- because even though it's a small gain, it's not that expensive to attain. Most 318 police engines had them from the factory IIRC.
*Double roller timing chain--cheap-why bother with a stock one?? The roller timing chains were less than $35 at the local Advance.
*There is variety of cams that you can go with. Here's some I'd look at.
-Mopar -430/450
-Comp Cams XE262..

Both of these would work fine with a stock converter, beyond that I would be looking at upgrading things such as differential gears..etc..etc..
 
One thing I'd suggest is a different set of pistons. Something a bit more than just a stock replacement. A few years ago I built a 318 for a customer. The biggest thing on their mind was taking these 340 J heads they had and putting them on this 318...thing was the chamber size on the J heads was around 75cc. Big compression drop on this 318. The stock pistons were .110 down the hole if memory serves me correctly compression was on its way down to almost 7:1.

Instead of ruining a perfectly good set of heads I found a set of hypertrutectics from Hughes Engines...http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php
I think it was those.

Duster, nice cams for 318.
 
Hi there, in my 71 Swinger 318 I bought a rebuild kit from Northern Auto. The flattop pistons were exactly .110" in the hole and I used the fel-pro blue... I think.039" compressed head gasket. Used the factory heads that were on it...it was a numbers matching 318 too. It ended up being 7.9:1 compression. Anyways, I just honed the block. Used the Crane Cams Energizer camshaft....like .454" .454 lift at I think 216 duration @.050". Also used the Edelbrock Performer intake with a 650cfm double pumper Holley with a factory fuel pump. The timing was set at 32 degrees. Set of cheap Summit headers although I'll never use em again....the mounting bolts were a pain because the tubes weren't indented enough for the bolt heads and the welds at the collectors leaked. When I pulled the motor I ended up sawzalling them off because I couldn't get the bolts out with the tubes on. Ran the factory torque converter too. However, it would stall to 1800rpm. Put a B&M shift kit in the 904 trans. The car would run consistent 8.90's in the 1/8 mile which equals around high 13's in the quarter. Shifting at 5000-5200 rpm. Not bad for a 7.9:1 318. With bald Goodyear radials. Lol. Also had a B-body 8 3/4 without cutting it...just moved the perches in, with a 3:55 posi in it....used 80's chrysler minivan wheels...had just enough off-set to fit a good size tire under it.
 
The 74 heads are good heads, unless YOU want to pay someone to port, decent power can be made from them with a good valve job.
If you are keeping the small port heads, a Holley street dominator, Offenhauser dual port (318) or the Marine/273 single plane manifold is a great choice. DOn't matter that the Performer and action minus manifold are small port, the single plane small port manifolds run better.
Pistons of your choice to bring them to the top, and a nice thin gasket if you wish, will be all the compression you need to run a small cam on 87 octane.
A windage tray and studs are a good idea.
Some iron adjustable rockers too.
As far as cam, I would keep it same/same on the duration if you're using small port heads, of close to stock flow. Think 260/260 ISKY.
Carb, use one that has metering rods. (Edel/TQ/QJ)


I have built many many many strong mild little 318's that will last forever with close to this combo. Fun, reliable, sound nice, start easy, and are easy on the pocket book at the pump, but yet are strong on the street.
 
The roller timing chains were less than $35 at the local Advance.

AHA! Another one that has been tricked! Look closely, the rollers don't roll, it's really a "double row" chain, not really any better than a steel gear silent chain.

They do the damnedest things to fool us...
 
The biggest thing with the 318's is compression. If you're looking for any kind of performance increase, you need to improve the compression ratio. It's pretty common to have the stock pistons .080" to .100" down in the cylinder, which doesn't do much for compression.

KB167's are a good piston for a mild to moderate build. The compression height is 1.81", which brings the pistons up in the cylinders a good .070" vs the stockers. That alone will get your compression above 9:1, usually close to 9.5:1 depending on the cylinder heads and head gasket.

The cylinder heads are another big area to improve. 302's as DK mentioned are a much better design, but still have small ports. Heads off a Magnum 5.2 or 5.9 work even better, they have a smaller chamber than the 302's and better ports if you're comparing stock to stock. But, you only need to change the heads if you're looking for more than about 320hp. The stock heads will support 1hp per cube without too much trouble. Have the valves enlarged to 1.88/1.60's with a good valve job and you can get to the 300 hp mark or better. More than that though, and the 302's or Magnum heads are the way to go.

An Edelbrock Performer intake will do the job just fine, if you stay with the stock 318 heads have them port matched to the Eddy as the ports on even the Performer are slightly larger than the 318 heads. DK is right on that one too, a 600cfm carb of any variety will work just fine.

For a ~300 hp engine headers aren't really necessary. They look cool, and definitely add hp, but unless you spend a lot of money (TTI's, Doug's) the fit usually isn't great, and there's always that leaky header flange, even on the good ones. The stock manifolds are lower maintenance, and for a mild build won't leave a ton of hp on the table.

The cam is the next big item. Everybody likes something different, so I'll just throw out the Lunati Voodoo series. A 60402 is a good cam, gives a good sound at idle, performs well, and stays under .500" of lift, which is turning point for valve spring selection. You can definitely go bigger on a street driven car, but after .500" you start to get into having to spend more money on the rest of the valvetrain.

I'd recommend having the block square decked and honed with torque plates too, just to square everything up. If nothing else, you should talk to your machinist about it. It's not mandatory, after all, they left the factory with a lot of variance, but things like that not only help with power, but with the longevity of the engine.

There are a TON of 318 build threads on here. I've posted on half a dozen just in the last week or so, and the "formula" is pretty much the same. Get taller pistons and zero deck the block, run bigger valves (or bigger heads altogether), go with a 4v intake and carb, and pick a good cam. Headers will get you more, but it depends on what you're looking for.
 
AHA! Another one that has been tricked! Look closely, the rollers don't roll, it's really a "double row" chain, not really any better than a steel gear silent chain.

They do the damnedest things to fool us...


Really??

I guess it's best to get one from Summit for $41 or so...hmmm
 
KB167's are a good piston for a mild to moderate build. The compression height is 1.81", which brings the pistons up in the cylinders a good .070" vs the stockers. That alone will get your compression above 9:1, usually close to 9.5:1 depending on the cylinder heads and head gasket.

Been there, CC'd that, usually end up about 8.5, providing he is using the 74 heads.

The cylinder heads are another big area to improve. 302's as DK mentioned are a much better design, but still have small ports. Heads off a Magnum 5.2 or 5.9 work even better, they have a smaller chamber than the 302's and better ports if you're comparing stock to stock. But, you only need to change the heads if you're looking for more than about 320hp. The stock heads will support 1hp per cube without too much trouble. Have the valves enlarged to 1.88/1.60's with a good valve job and you can get to the 300 hp mark or better. More than that though, and the 302's or Magnum heads are the way to go.

The stock 302 heads aren't going to improve HP any over the stock 74 (975 head from memory) Finding a good set of magnum heads is sorta hard, and the magnum heads hurt low end torque, and thats where the "stockish fun" is.... If you DO put a bigger valve in small port heads with no porting, put in a bigger exhaust valve, leave the intake alone.

An Edelbrock Performer intake will do the job just fine, if you stay with the stock 318 heads have them port matched to the Eddy as the ports on even the Performer are slightly larger than the 318 heads. DK is right on that one too, a 600cfm carb of any variety will work just fine.

Just fine for stock heads, yes, the best for stock heads? No. A quick plug reading from hole to hole on any Performer/action minus manifold on small port heads will prove my point.

For a ~300 hp engine headers aren't really necessary. They look cool, and definitely add hp, but unless you spend a lot of money (TTI's, Doug's) the fit usually isn't great, and there's always that leaky header flange, even on the good ones. The stock manifolds are lower maintenance, and for a mild build won't leave a ton of hp on the table.

Headers will make a bigger difference than changing the heads for magnums on a mild build.............. Not necessary, but a real easy way to get HP and economy. Even the stock 2bbl will make good use of a set of headers.

The cam is the next big item. Everybody likes something different, so I'll just throw out the Lunati Voodoo series. A 60402 is a good cam, gives a good sound at idle, performs well, and stays under .500" of lift, which is turning point for valve spring selection. You can definitely go bigger on a street driven car, but after .500" you start to get into having to spend more money on the rest of the valvetrain.

Small port heads, especially small port heads with a bigger ex vlave, perform better over a wider range with a cam of the same duration. (more low/mid TQ) Think ISKY 260, COMP 260, maybe up to 270. Lift around 430-450, maybe 480? Springs to match the cam are needed regardless.

I'd recommend having the block square decked and honed with torque plates too, just to square everything up. If nothing else, you should talk to your machinist about it. It's not mandatory, after all, they left the factory with a lot of variance, but things like that not only help with power, but with the longevity of the engine.

X2, just like he said, no reason to take it to the machine shop, if you're not going to give it the works.

Next on the agenda. Distributor. Chances are your distributor has more than 24* advance in it, look around, find one that you can idle at 12*, and have 34-36 at full. For a mild 318, depending on gears, full advance should be somewhere about 2600-3000, if your gears are in the 3.55 and lower range, full advance about 2300-2500 would be great. Building a strong motor doesn't do you any good with a lame distributor, lots of power can be lost there.

IF you can still get the Mopar performance distributor, I believe it has 24* of advance in it.
 
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