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JRT

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Somebody help me out here. I have a 65 Barracuda for my son which is getting restored, i removed and gave away the 3spd and slant six. I have a 3:55 8 3/4 suregrip rear. a 904 tranny that both need to be rebuilt that i have no problem with. I have a 318 (block only) it has been bored .030, decked and line honed all machine work done. I would like to keep this as low budget as possible (under 2000) This will be his everyday driver, but i would like for him to have a little fun with it. I'm not looking to build a 11 second car but i would prefer it not to be an anchor, besides i might want to borrow it sometime. lol
What would be the best approach and componets for this rebuild.
 
Most of our tec's seem to be out or busy.
Take a look around there are some things that will have to be dun to the
front k member first and I would do a disk brake swap on it to.
There will be someone advise you on the 318 but you will not have too do much to it with your gears. Sorry memike.
 
Rear gears are very important to know when it comes time for chosing a cam.

The 318 block can make great use of Keith Black pistons. Keith Black (KB) has come out with a flat top piston that can sit at zero deck height. This will provided an excellent compresion ratio. Head gaskets thickness plays a part.

To bolt the rest of this engine togther on the cheap, the following paths should be considered. All is dependent of your time frame, wallet and how long your willing to wait for the part.
At zero deck (pistons w/5cc valve relief) and 360 open chambered heads (72cc's) and a Fel-Pro gasket @ .039 thick and 4.1 bore sized gasket, the comp ratio will be 8.63.

Removing 5 cc's from the head will up the ratio to 9.1. Excellent pump gas ratio. You should not exceed 9.5-1.

Cheapest...........

A set of 360 heads, factory 4bbl. T-Q intake and T-Q. These can go cheap at a swap meet.
Open air cleaner, cam of your choice that should operate in the cruise rpm of the car. 1,000 - 5000 rpm or 1500 - 6500 rpm's.
In an example, a comp cams kit can provided just about everything you'll need to set up the cam and valve train.
Go to a cam's web site and read up on the suggested RPM range of the cam, where cruise is.
For a car with pep, I'd look at the XE268 hyd. cam.

With exhaust manifolds, this should be an easy 270 HP and about 300 lbs of torque. Give or take a few here.
Headers can add well to the package. I'd put it up at 330 HP and 350 Tq.
Again, give or take a few.
 
i am also building a 318 . i am building more a a street/strip engine. here is what i am building if you are interested.
i am going to go with the swirl port 302 heads i paid $100 bucks for a used pair ( i measured them and they are 58 cc)
keith black Hypereutectic (kb167) Flat Top pistons that give me a 10.3 to 1 compression ratio.$239
piston rings $47
high volume oil pump $60
fel-pro head gaskets $31
holley 4160 750cfm carb, $264
edelbrock performer rpm intake. $220
bearings $161
timing chain $62
comp cams extream energy cam xe274 274/286* and .488/.491 lift $124
Valve Springs, Dual, 1.437 in. Outside Diameter, 409 lbs./in. Rate, 1.050 $100
full lengh headers. $105
a torque converter with a 2000 stall
3.55 gears.

total $1513
i have been told by guys on this forum that this could make close to 400hp at the crank not bad for a budget 318
 
canner, what head gaskets? There diamentions?
 
Here are some of my thoughts..

If the crank needs to be ground;have it offset ground.This will bring the stock pistons up .010-.015 in the hole.So instead of your stock piston being down .060-.080 it will be something like.045 to .065.More compression AND more stroke with one machining cost.

Buy a stock windage tray for a small block mopar.Less than $130 bucks and can easily add 10 h.p.Aids in keeping oil in the pan as well.

If it needs pistons definitly go with the KB.They are within grams of each other and ease balancing.

Have the stock rods checked for straightness.Recondition them by hand deburring and polishing.Throw a good set of bolts in them and thier good to go.

Chuck the old heads.Get a new set of heavy duty magnums.I think they are around $265 each on ebay.Small combustion chamber and an .028 head gasket will put you around 9.5:1 without offset grinding.However a magnums combustion chamber lends itself to higher comp on todays gas with less timing.10:1 is not out of line .Larger ports than a 302 casting and larger valves than a 360 head.Will lose some low end torque but not enough to offset the real gains in mid and top rpm range.These are hi velocity fast burn heads so mileage and low- mid range tq will be more and better than a large port 360 head,without the low compression that comes with a 360 head.Emmisions will be better as well.Magnum also has a 1.6:1 rocker ratio.They run into interference around .520 lift so limit your cam to about .480 to take the 1.6 rocker ratio into account.There are at least 3 springs available for this head.

Put a 5/16 adaptor stud(available from comp) in the head and you can use chevy rockers.Doesnt get much cheaper than that!The factory magnum rockers arent much either.Harland Sharp also makes a drop in roller rocker assembly.Pricey though.

The only drawback is you will need to drill the heads for an la intake OR buy a magnum intake.You will need special length pushrods.7.625 I think.And magnum head bolts.La valve covers will fit if you wish to reuse them.You will need 8mm magnum valves and valve train(unless the heads on ebay come complete).When you order the cam make sure it comes with oil thru the pushrod style amc lifters.Thats how the magnum oils the heads.Most aftermarket mopar cams come with this style lifter anyways so it's not an extra cost.

400 h.p is achievable with the above cam and NO porting.302 casting will need to be ported quite a bit to make the same power.And probably wont have as much power under the curve.
 
they are the fel pro PermaTorqueMLS they are .039 but when the motor is going together i am going to measure how close the pistions are to 0 deck. if they are still in the hole a but i am going to use the mopar performance head gaskets that are .024 to .028
 
i am also building a 318 . i am building more a a street/strip engine. here is what i am building if you are interested.
i am going to go with the swirl port 302 heads i paid $100 bucks for a used pair ( i measured them and they are 58 cc)
keith black Hypereutectic (kb167) Flat Top pistons that give me a 10.3 to 1 compression ratio.$239
piston rings $47
high volume oil pump $60
fel-pro head gaskets $31
holley 4160 750cfm carb, $264
edelbrock performer rpm intake. $220
bearings $161
timing chain $62
comp cams extream energy cam xe274 274/286* and .488/.491 lift $124
Valve Springs, Dual, 1.437 in. Outside Diameter, 409 lbs./in. Rate, 1.050 $100
full lengh headers. $105
a torque converter with a 2000 stall
3.55 gears.

total $1513
i have been told by guys on this forum that this could make close to 400hp at the crank not bad for a budget 318

With that cam you might want to go with more converter...
 
The high volume oil pump will cost you 10-15 hp easily. Also I didn't see the HD pinned oil pump drive shaft you will need with this listed in your build up. Also the hi-vol pump will suck the stock pan dry in a typical quarter mile run. So, unless you are running some ridiculous bottom end clearances (the normal pump is plenty at a .002 clearance) save the hi-vol pump for the Chevy guys.

Agree with a higher stall speed on the converter. At 2000 RPM, it will be tighter than the factory 340 converter (2200-2400). Comp suggests 2200+ with that cam. Don't run too much valve spring either.
 
A HV pump will not suck a stock pan dry...that is complete BS....I have a stock pan and an HV pump with a windage tray and have NEVER had a pressure or any problem with the oiling system......you are right that it isn't needed unless you are running bigger clearences but that BS flying around that a stock pan will be sucked dry is complete crap.
 
i phoned comp cams 2 days ago and they said that stall will work as long as i stick with 3.55 or numerically higher gears and they suggest those valve springs with the xe274 cam shaft. as a former chevy guy i have always used a high volume pump on engines i have built. why are they different on dodge?
 
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