340 block Vin #

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Lonnie Leach

Lonnie Leach

Duster/ Valiant
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Hi Guys Looking for some info on 340 vin stamping on Blocks I got a Guy telling me he has my block for my car. The Vin Numbers are right But Not all are perfectly straight and some are deeper than others Do You Think this is factory. And what does yours look like

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104_1160.JPG
 
Yes. This looks like my block stamping.
Some are perfect and some look like a drunken sailor did it. Lol!
 
yeah, the factory did them by hand but typically they have two digits in front of the vin. Guess it depends on what year the motor is. This one appears to have been blue originally.
 
Generally the punch set up was in a holder with all the letters and numbers together... but they can be straight or all over the place. Font is what's important..

My '69 340.
1969dartswingercleanup 082.JPG

You can also "double check" for a legitimate assembly date on the left front of the block..


1969dartswingercleanupweek2 022.JPG
 
Keep in mind that punches get worn out and some don’t mark as deep as some of the others and punching numbers/letters is a tedious job. Hard to get straight and when you are on an assembly line you only have so much time before the next one is there to be stamped.
 
How did you two come in contact? Did you post your vin or did he have it not knowing what you are after? That will be a big part in the picture here.
 
ch1ll said:
Keep in mind that punches get worn out and some don’t mark as deep as some of the others and punching numbers/letters is a tedious job. Hard to get straight and when you are on an assembly line you only have so much time before the next one is there to be stamped.
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Yea i was wondering that , I retired from Trenton Engine Plant From 95 till 2017 and they just started using they pin stamp then and i talked to people that were there in the 60s and that is what they said
 
gdrill said:
How did you two come in contact? Did you post your vin or did he have it not knowing what you are after? That will be a big part in the picture here.
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I met him at the WPC swap meet and Looked at a block that he had was not mine was a 70 told him i was looking for a late 72 said he had one more at home . sent me a text with the date and Vin . It Just the cast date is 8-9 of 72 has a bad cast shift on date Looks like Nine to me, My car was built 1-17 -73
 
dadsbee said:
Generally the punch set up was in a holder with all the letters and numbers together... but they can be straight or all over the place. Font is what's important..

My '69 340.
View attachment 1716054826
You can also "double check" for a legitimate assembly date on the left front of the block..


View attachment 1716054829
Click to expand...
it think in 72 they cut it down to 8 digits on the 72 73 blocks
 
So my additional input is this. I’m also looking at the pad and see the damage. I zoomed in to see the pad looks like the block either had some really bad man handling (possibly to get an oil pan down in the car) or dented up with a hammer because the machined boss does look extremely smooth where all my blocks have a grinder curve like a flat stone was used like when a flywheel is properly machined. Slow speed machine - kinda rough and grainy if I’m honest.

Side note: if this block has your vin number and no other block shows up with “your vin” then logic states it is yours. Even if down the road it appears to be faked the odds are it’s your block. “IF” you can afford it and can sit on it, the block has value. If you do not have the money to buy the block then wondering about if it is real or not is pointless. We all know there are con artist in this world. The real question is “can you afford to be conned?”

Best of luck to you because if that is your block you just hit the lottery twice in one day.
 
Syleng1 said:
So my additional input is this. I’m also looking at the pad and see the damage. I zoomed in to see the pad looks like the block either had some really bad man handling (possibly to get an oil pan down in the car) or dented up with a hammer because the machined boss does look extremely smooth where all my blocks have a grinder curve like a flat stone was used like when a flywheel is properly machined. Slow speed machine - kinda rough and grainy if I’m honest.

Side note: if this block has your vin number and no other block shows up with “your vin” then logic states it is yours. Even if down the road it appears to be faked the odds are it’s your block. “IF” you can afford it and can sit on it, the block has value. If you do not have the money to buy the block then wondering about if it is real or not is pointless. We all know there are con artist in this world. The real question is “can you afford to be conned?”

Best of luck to you because if that is your block you just hit the lottery twice in one day.
Click to expand...
If you know some history on your car such as where geographically it has resided most of it existence?? Example you have proof that it was bought and sold in the same state where you live and the dude selling your alegally original block is located in a relatively close distance as well the fact he doesn't know your Vin I would tend to believe it's yours. Maybe clear up the question....did you tell him the Vin number ?? If not you should buy a lottery ticket on the way over to pick up your # matching block. Just my thoughts.
Good luck.
 
Syleng1 said:
So my additional input is this. I’m also looking at the pad and see the damage. I zoomed in to see the pad looks like the block either had some really bad man handling (possibly to get an oil pan down in the car) or dented up with a hammer because the machined boss does look extremely smooth where all my blocks have a grinder curve like a flat stone was used like when a flywheel is properly machined. Slow speed machine - kinda rough and grainy if I’m honest.

Side note: if this block has your vin number and no other block shows up with “your vin” then logic states it is yours. Even if down the road it appears to be faked the odds are it’s your block. “IF” you can afford it and can sit on it, the block has value. If you do not have the money to buy the block then wondering about if it is real or not is pointless. We all know there are con artist in this world. The real question is “can you afford to be conned?”

Best of luck to you because if that is your block you just hit the lottery twice in one day.
Click to expand...
Yea I asked him about the edge he said looks like some one with a big scraper or screwdriver because it has that in one other spot, and he say it has the mill marks in it
also I got the car about an Hour away from were he is from
 
Bennoel 10 said:
If you know some history on your car such as where geographically it has resided most of it existence?? Example you have proof that it was bought and sold in the same state where you live and the dude selling your alegally original block is located in a relatively close distance as well the fact he doesn't know your Vin I would tend to believe it's yours. Maybe clear up the question....did you tell him the Vin number ?? If not you should buy a lottery ticket on the way over to pick up your # matching block. Just my thoughts.
Good luck.
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I Bought The car like a Hour away from his Locating
 
dadsbee said:
Generally the punch set up was in a holder with all the letters and numbers together... but they can be straight or all over the place. Font is what's important..

My '69 340.
View attachment 1716054826
You can also "double check" for a legitimate assembly date on the left front of the block..


View attachment 1716054829
Click to expand...
Is your car a Canada car. In code book does not have info for the P on yours
 
Lonnie Leach said:
Is your car a Canada car. In code book does not have info for the P on yours
Click to expand...
That has nothing to do with an assembly plant. The "B" is the assembly plant. LM23P is the VIN for a true 1969 x 340 Swinger. The L is on the block as well.. just so light you don't see it in that shot. They were still on full VIN's I guess when my Swinger was built. My '69 Bee only has a partial... a 69 Roadrunner A833 I have as a spare has full VIN. Depended on car line and timing as to when they started getting lazy.
 
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Lonnie Leach said:
Yea I asked him about the edge he said looks like some one with a big scraper or screwdriver because it has that in one other spot, and he say it has the mill marks in it
also I got the car about an Hour away from were he is from
Click to expand...
That is VERY positive info.
I love the picture of the transmission pad.
My 72 Demon 4speed looks the same way.
Again- drunken sailor. No wonder these cars has such low quality issues. Amazing they still are around today. Same year Honda and how many of those are still here and driving, and they HAD quality control!!! Lol!
 
he read me the numbers over the phone on the numbers on the front JM340 but no P did they put a P on the 73 low compression motors ? J is 73 witch mine is M is mound road the P is for premium fuel . Then 10,000 calendrer build date 4122. But That is 63 days before build date of my car
 
dadsbee said:
That has nothing to do with an assembly plant. The "B" is the assembly plant. LM23P is the VIN for a true 1969 x 340 Swinger. The L is on the block as well.. just so light you don't see it in that shot. They were still on full VIN's I guess when my Swinger was built. My '69 Bee only has a partial... a 69 Roadrunner A833 I have as a spare has full VIN. Depended on car line and timing as to when they started getting lazy.
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Yea B Is Hamtramck Mi. On the front of Block It Has J for 73 witch mine is M for Mound road 340 but 0 is like half but No P that can be seen the about 2 inch gap and the 4122 for 10,000 date but that is 63 days before my build date 1/17/73 10,000 is 4191 then 9198 for unit day count.. But Damn 9198 is a lot of motors in a day
 
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