340 coolant temperature

-
Do a bit of research on fan shrouds.
Holes in the shroud (with out flaps) defeat the purpose of having a fan shroud which is a plenum where low pressure is created between fans and radiator.

Logically and efficiently designed fan shrouds have either large diameter fans which allow full radiator air flow thru them when they are not on, or have flaps which are one way valves to allow air thru and out when fans are off while allowing a vacuum to be created when fans are on.
 

Attachments

  • hrdp_0803_16_z+1970_dodge_challenger+.jpg
    89.2 KB · Views: 296
  • 50-6465.jpg
    55 KB · Views: 254
  • staggerd-dual-f&s.jpg
    85.8 KB · Views: 296
  • th.jpg
    14 KB · Views: 268
I ordered the fans from jegs. they are there universal 14" fans. they pull 9.8 amps ea. and pull 1860cfm ea. I have them wired up to a Derale high amperage duel fan controller. It is part # 16789. I have not had good luck so far with the controller though. the first one they sent me was defective. the second one i got worked great for 250 miles then the sending unit stopped working. they are sending me a new sending unit as we speak. it does have a manual override function though that is nice to have. it is set up with a switch in the dash that will turn one of the fans on no matter what temp you are at. that saved my *** and let me get the car home without over heating it. here are some pics of the install.



















 
he is correct about the open holes letting air thru but if you look closely you will see that my fans are sealed on there entire diameter with a high density foam weather stripping. the fans when on pull air directly thru the core. then at high speeds the air blows thru the holes. my design is not perfect. hell far from it. but........ i was sitting in traffic on an 83* day and watched my temp go to 185* the fans kicked on and dropped it down to 170* in the time it took for the light to change. I sat in bumper to bumper traffic for over an hour with a pretty much race built big block and stayed between 170-182*. gonna call that a win.
 
cudavert said:
Another thing.....wasn't somebody recently having an overheating problem that was related to those electric fans' giant aluminum "shroud" impeding normal air flow through the radiator? I believe there was.....

IMAG0042_zpsedeb0737.jpg
Click to expand...

Yes , my sons 416 Duster was having issues, ended up changing pump and thermo to Milodon hi flow and removing the 2 10" electric fans and shroud from Champion, switched to a Derale 17 " mech fan, engine was getting to over 210 with the champion setup and now it's maintaining 185-190 cruising , may creep to 195 at stop and go ! Had it out on Sunday for a show and it never got over 195.
 
Made some holes in the shroud, not big hole just lots of smaller one.

Change the stat to 180 (it was 160) and took it out for 40 miles drive on highway at steady 55~60 (3000~3500rpm).

It takes along time to reach normal temp 190, then it stays there, till you push it a little more. Temp goes up to near 200.

I stopped to check and noted a little coolant from the rad overflow pipe.

I have not tried driving with higher than 4000 rpm.

Is this normal running, or not.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714629542&stc=1&d=1371448225
 

Attachments

  • photo rad small.jpg
    75.9 KB · Views: 310
.............put in a 195 t-stat........the coolant is no staying in the rad long enough to be cooled by the air flow.........kim.....
 
Well still having a problem with higher temp when pushing the car.

I had a leak through the rear bolt hole on left side exhaust manifold, fixed that.

Went to show 92 miles away last weekend and driving at constant 55 mph at around 3000 rpm temp went up to 210~215 (shown on the gauge).
Slow down to 2000~2300 rpm the temp comes back down to 190~195.

I think the air flow is still an issue, so looking into changing the fans to standard 18" fan with clutch.

Could anyone tell me what I need to get and where?

Thanks
 
if the engine heats up on traffic (low speeds) its not enough fan.

if engine heats up at highway speeds its not enough radiator.

i think your shroud is still the limiting factor here. depending on what your fans are pulling for air i think they are too small too. I would get a larger elec. fan set up and get more air flow thru the shroud.

I just had a full week of 90*+ temps here and drove my car over 100 miles. the car never got over 185*. bumper to bumper traffic, highways, smoking the tires for 2 blocks. it just stayed cool. my fans pull 1860 cfm ea. that is 3720 cfm total.

try attaching the fans to the rad. without the shroud and go for a drive on freeway. bet it does better.
 
I agree with Younguns2.0, with the addition that if you have a high stall speed torque converter (do you?), it will dump a ton more heat into your radiator at high RPMs. If you do have a high stall speed torque converter, do you also have an auxiliary cooler for the trans? What size is it and is it installed in front of the radiator?
 
cadboy said:
Well still having a problem with higher temp when pushing the car.

I had a leak through the rear bolt hole on left side exhaust manifold, fixed that.

Went to show 92 miles away last weekend and driving at constant 55 mph at around 3000 rpm temp went up to 210~215 (shown on the gauge).
Slow down to 2000~2300 rpm the temp comes back down to 190~195.

I think the air flow is still an issue, so looking into changing the fans to standard 18" fan with clutch.

Could anyone tell me what I need to get and where?

Thanks
Click to expand...


Definitely not a fan issue if it's getting warm at 55 mph. You don't even need a fan or a shroud at that speed.
 
Took off the shroud and the fans yesterday and went for a drive, at high speed temp never went above 190, slow traffic then it went up (no fans).

So I am going to put the fans direct on to the rad and try again.

Thank you all for your help and I will keep reporting back.

The tranmission cooler is built into the Champion radiator bottom (that is where the pipes go to).
 
cadboy said:
Took off the shroud and the fans yesterday and went for a drive, at high speed temp never went above 190, slow traffic then it went up (no fans).

So I am going to put the fans direct on to the rad and try again.

Thank you all for your help and I will keep reporting back.

The tranmission cooler is built into the Champion radiator bottom (that is where the pipes go to).
Click to expand...
Problem solved(or at least identified). You have too much air restriction through the radiator. I'm sure when you get the fans & shroud figured out you'll be good. Good luck!
 
oldkimmer said:
.............put in a 195 t-stat........the coolant is no staying in the rad long enough to be cooled by the air flow.........kim.....
Click to expand...

jimjimjimmy said:
this is true and like old kimmer said put a 195 t stat in to keep the coolant in the rad longer if all it goes to is 220 max motor on
Click to expand...
A 192* thermostat isn't going to flow any different than a 160* will. In fact a 160* thermostat will have the coolant flowing throught the radiator for longer intervals than the 192*. Both thermostats will open the same amount, just one will stay open longer.
 
cadboy said:
The tranmission cooler is built into the Champion radiator bottom (that is where the pipes go to).
Click to expand...

if you have a high stall speed torque converter, you need an auxiliary trans cooler too. The one built into the radiator is merely good enough for a stock stall speed unit.

On the other hand, you never said if this car has a high stall speed unit or standard. Since you apparently have no overheating problem at high RPMs, then it is probably just a fan/shroud issue. Good luck!
 
The fans have been fixed direct to the rad, it should be better but have not tried it on the freeway.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top