340/E85/D1SC/FItech1200 big hp SB guys step inside please!

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I used the fans out of an Intrepid. 3.9l I believe but not sure now it's been 4 years. They are a 2 speed dual fan that when running full blast have a cfm of around 9000. They are a little slimmer than the Taurus fan and from what I read they draw less power. Just another option.

Jack
 
Awesome build man. Very similar to my Novi 2000 408 Magnum build. I have a 95 taurus fan with a variable speed controller. You can set it at any temp and it comes on at 60% to reduce amp draw. I had to trim the shroud to make it fit. I had a hell of a time routing my charge tubing with a big intercooler too. Check out Cobra Head Silicon Couplers for tight corners. They are pricey but they saved my *** on two locations that were extremely tight. Can't wait to see this on the road.
 
Ieblanc, I definitely didn't forget those. I didn't do them "the right" way because I plan to do a full resto on this car at some point in the distant future. I just wanted to slap in something that worked so I took 2x3 rectangle stock and welded it tucked up against the floor from the crossmember to the rear sub frame and welded it in all around at as many points as I could fit the torch into. Not perfect, but it is definitely solid and should do the job. I just didn't want to go crazy with tying it into the floor as I think that would have opened up a can of worms with me wanting to replace the floors while I was there. Only thing that worries me is whether or not it will be a problem that I didn't use a subframe connector that is one piece with the leaf spring pocket. I am just worried the factory leaf spring pocket may have issues with handling this kind of power but a few guys with stock pockets and stroked big block power told me not to worry.

Chargd72, that sounds like an awesome build of your own. Do you have any specs on it and what kind of power it made?
I actually found a friend who has two Derale 13" fans he would sell me for very cheap after he destroyed their shroud trying to fit them in his early 70's vette. They will bolt into the existing shroud I have in place of the cheap china fans that came with it. the fans flow 2000CFM each and draw 50 amps combined. FItech can control when the first and second fan comes on. I am just debating on whether to go this route or just use a 7 blade flex-a-lite fan. I have a 140amp 1 wire Tuff Stuff alternator so I don't think amp draw will be an issue, but I am worried about putting that much load on the alternator with a single V belt. Flex fan just seems like it would be easier and flow better at RPM's, but I get a little worried about how it'll do sitting in traffic. I mean when it comes down to it, when idling this is just a 9.2:1 low compression motor on E85...it should stay pretty cool regardless of the fan type. I'm really torn on which way to go.

thanks for the tip on the couplers! I actually found a pretty good way to route them, I'll take pics but with my intercooler it worked out pretty good. My two issues now is that the bracket I have for the massive dayco tensioner is pretty close to the procharger outlet piping, so I'm a little worried about it kissing the piping when the motor torques but hopefully with poly locks that won't be an issue. I also need to figure out where i'm going to have room to weld on the Mondo bypass valve. I'll take some pics of the piping when I get back to the shop to work on it.
 
Well if your worried about when the motor torques and hits have you thought about solid mounts over the poly locks?
 
I run just a flexalite that's underdriven on my 318 and it's not bad. A small electric fan could help, especially with an intercooler or a/c. I like a belt driven fan because it also cools down the underhood temps and they move a lot of air.
 
Can also use one fan on a thermo switch and the other off a switch ypu control and turn it on whenever you want.
 
Quite a few of my freinds run ford smallblock with your setup .... i would suggest PRIOR to seeing what it does on the street would be to setup a time with a DYNO and have it tuned properly .... i know that they dial in there HP around 650-700 hp at the flywheel on a stock block...and at that still have no traction on the street..talking to a few Machininst ... out of the 3 oems ... Mopar has the strongest OEM block... so i would shoot for 700 HP at the flywheel...
 
I appreciate all the replies everyone! Lots of great advice and stuff to keep me thinking about how to finish/improve the build!

MAtts440, I did consider solid but it is mostly a street car and I have seen solid mounts cause some issues on street cars with cracking K members, possibly causing block distortion etc... I have about an inch of clearance there, so I can't see the motor moving anywhere close to that on poly locks. If it does, I'm thinking I'll use a chain or something that will allow it to work with the soft material at part throttle but catch at WOT before it hits anything.

As far as the fans go, I am tempted to go flex fan because of how much air they move across the RPM band. It should do a better job at cooling the whole engine bay. The lack of significant HP loss from the electric fans and ability to control air flow at idle is tempting....it's just seems like a huge amount of amperage draw to run on a V belt...might be worth a shot though. I'm still undecided. Either way is more work- the flex fan will likely need a custom shroud to fit my thick radiator and the electric fans will require wiring.

RRvolare, that's exactly what my machinist says. He is big into small block fords and shattered the NHRA super stock GT AA record with one of his cars. He says he believes the mopar block to be every bit as strong if not stronger than the factory ford block he used to break that record at an 8.99. He didn't think I should be concerned at all about pushing it up to 12PSI or so and making around 700FWHP, especially because with the blower I won't have to spin the motor too high. I do plan on dyno tuning it prior to any street fun. I am hoping that when I downsize pulleys I won't have to relocate the tensioner (other than maybe clocking it, which just requires me to drill out a hole in the bracket for the locking pin). With a shorter belt I think it may work as is.

Only reason why I probably WON'T put the smaller pulley on right off the bat is because I don't fully trust this transmission. After a year of down time with the car and missing almost all of last year's good weather, I don't want to get greedy, push the setup too hard and end up having to down it again for the summer/fall. I think if I can manage to make 600hp on the 4.75" pulley that will be more than enough for the street and I can set the car up better to handle more power at the track next year.
 
Too much typing and not enough progress on my end. Schedule is all screwed up for training at work, won't be able to wrench till the end of the month so I'll have a lot of catching up to do.
 
So I have a few updates
First, I want to thank PACE performance for working with me after receiving TWO defective TSP distributors in a row. Both of them had rotor's mounting base welded on pretty crooked and would wobble a whole lot when spun. After receiving the second one like that, I decided to go MSD and Pace worked with me to get an MSD right out to me instead.

I managed to get a few things done on the car, mainly plumbing and and mocked up the intercooler piping.

I ended up having to go with electric fans for clearance with the piping, but my friend sold me two brand new Derale 2000cfm fans for $125 that should fit right into the existing shroud that my cheap Chinese fans came in.

After all the test fitting, the one thing I didn't account for was the blower pulley being taller than the blower (which probably won't be the case when I run 12psi, but for the current pulley it is). The hood didn't clear, and I used this as an excuse to go for a EV carb hat instead to free up some power. I may cut my existing hood to clear this but for now I'll run hoodless.

I am running into some set backs:

The first, and I hate to even admit this one, but after a long 14 hour day at work I stopped by the garage at night to work on the car and decided on a whim to order a new driveshaft. My friend and I measured TWICE, but somehow in a brain fart moment I must have wrote the wrong number down (actual measurement was 49 13/16 and I wrote down 48 13/16). Needless to say, I had a beautiful $460 cromoly 3.5" driveshaft made that is now an inch too short. The tail shaft is inside the trans by 2 3/8ths of an inch. My driveshaft guy tells me the bushing is 2 1/8th deep so it may be OK. I have super stock leafs so don't know how much movement there will be. I plan to drive it down to him carefully when it's all finished (he is down the block) and have him check it out. Hopefully I don't need a new tube. DOH!

Second POSSIBLE set back is the fuel system. When I switched from an A1000 to the ProTuner 750, it didn't click with me that the 750 flows SIGNIFICANTLY more than the 1000 and that my FPR (automotive 13101) was designed for the 1000. Hopefully that regulator can flow enough to keep up.
I am also a little worried about my mounting of the FPR, something I should have thought about more but it seemed like a good idea at the time. I know the firewall is not NHRA legal, but I only race the car once in a blue moon at track rentals with no tech. Because I needed so much room for it to be mounted with the Y block though, I have a pretty long length of hose running from the Y block to the Fitech (haven't measured but my guess is maybe 25" for one hose and 18" for the other). They both feed into the linkage side ports of the Fitech as I was told by a FItech tech that I couldn't use the built in FITECH FPR side feed. I conveniently found out later he was wrong, apparently you can use any of the 3 feeds as long as you plug the built in FItech FPR outlet to deadhead it.

Now I'm worried about two things, 1) will the length of hose be an issue with controlling fuel pressure accurately and 2) will the FPR being mounted behind the FItech with a small section of the 6AN feed hoses being run parallel with the car cause a potential fuel pressure drop on acceleration.


My friends say I'm paranoid and it wont be an issue with only 700hp or so on E85 while using such a high flowing pump but I'm just worried. If I didn't have some of these parts lying around already, I would have done the whole front end of the fuel system different in retrospect (used a multiple outlet port FPR mounted in front of the FItech to eliminate the Y block and run two 6AN lines back to the two front feeds of the FItech). At this point I doing this would be a major PITA as I am pretty sure I wouldn't have enough feed or return line slack to stretch the FPR up that far forward now.


You may be able to kind of see what I'm talking about in these pics in regards to how it is run.
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AWESOME! SUBBED
Thanks Johnny! And thanks again for all the help with the distributor. I have to say it was some of the best customer service I have ever run into, I'll definitely be using you guys again!
 
Thanks Johnny! And thanks again for all the help with the distributor. I have to say it was some of the best customer service I have ever run into, I'll definitely be using you guys again!
Appreciate it also! Glad we could take care of you!
 
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