340 or 383 for 1968 Dart

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I've had both in relatively stock form. They're pretty evenly matched, but if you forced me to choose, and I was starting from scratch, I'd go with a 340. Although around here, at least, a 383 is a lot easier and cheaper to find and buy than a ridiculously priced 340 block that may or may not be complete or any good to begin with...
If you've already got one or the other sitting around, use that and don't look back.
 
I'm assuming you are talking swap into a Dart you already have.
If so, I doubt I would bother with a swap to a 383, ESPECIALLY if it already has a small block. 440 or stroker 400 would be my minimum, to put up with the tight fit.
If it has a slant, either is possible. If it has a 273/318, a 340 or 360 is a no-brainer, imo.
Bottom line for me? It comes down to what you have. I have all big block stuff, so a 440 would be my go-to.
 
I'm assuming you are talking swap into a Dart you already have.
If so, I doubt I would bother with a swap to a 383, ESPECIALLY if it already has a small block. 440 or stroker 400 would be my minimum, to put up with the tight fit.
If it has a slant, either is possible. If it has a 273/318, a 340 or 360 is a no-braner, imo.
Bottom line for me? It comes down to what you have. I have all big block stuff, so a 440 would be my go-to.
Agree 100%

I have the 440 in the Demon. But if starting from scratch, I'd likely use a 360 mag and cheap turbo..
 
340 all the way, there's no comparison in stock form. 340 gives you a lighter front end for better handling and weight transfer, more room in the engine bay and IMO, the 383 (in stock form) is a dog. You couldn't pay me to put a stock 383 in anything except for a numbers-matching, nut and bolt type restoration. I had the stock, numbers-matching factory 10:1 383 4bbl engine in my '68 Coronet that I sold in 2023. I drove it for 1,000s of miles so I speak from recent, direct experience.

Like said above, if you want a big block go with a 400 (stroked!) instead of a 383 block, they are the same externally but the 400 has the largest bore of any big block Mopar. A 440 in an A body is a good drag race combo but I'd rather have a low deck in a street car.

Similarly, if you can't find a good deal on a 340 put a 360 in it. Again, same externally and capable of making plenty of power when built right. Great street engines.
 
How about the cheap turbo on your 440? EM made 700 ft/lbs with a motor home 440 and a single.
I could do that, but it is super fun with the tunnel ram and 660s. Trying to keep the 70s-80s vibe.

Just throwing out for the OP, I would build a different car different
 
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So many options. Since my spare parts and core engines are big block, that was my choice. A 383/400 with aluminum heads, intake, and water pump housing weighs the same or less than an iron small block. The only real drawback can be fitting under chassis headers in that tight engine bay.

The rare 340 is a great choice.......if you have one in hand. I hear that the 360 is becoming a bit scarce as well.
 
I just don't get why everybody insists on comparing an aluminum-headed big block to an iron headed small block. Apples and oranges. Put aluminum heads on the small block too and then compare them.
 
I just don't get why everybody insists on comparing an aluminum-headed big block to an iron headed small block. Apples and oranges. Put aluminum heads on the small block too and then compare them.
Because it puts an end to the argument that a big block A body can't handle the same as a stock small block A-body.
 
Thanks. I was hoping for a similar comparison, with the aluminum bbm heads compared to a similarly equipped iron head small block.
I wouldn't consider a aluminum intake/head/water pump/ housing, header, comparison to an all iron (including intake and exhaust manifolds) small block fair. Would be informative, though.
I've always wondered how much, ACTUALLY, the supposed weight difference really "hurts handling"
Not one of my six mopars has power steering, so handling does not enter my conversation, normally.
 

I just don't get why everybody insists on comparing an aluminum-headed big block to an iron headed small block. Apples and oranges. Put aluminum heads on the small block too and then compare them.
Why? Cause there are bunches of iron head small blocks out there, and if I were trying to make a big block car handle, aluminum heads would be among the first mods I would make.
 
Because it puts an end to the argument that a big block A body can't handle the same as a stock small block A-body.
And there's the rub- having to modify one to achieve the same weight as the other in stock form. Not a fair comparison.
Throw the same parts and money at both, and you will still be back to the original weight difference (or very close to it).
An aluminum-headed small block will still weigh less than a similarly equipped big block, providing even better weight distribution and inherently better handling.
BTW, I'm not dissing big blocks, I've had many. Just saying that if you use the same type parts on both engines, the SB will always be lighter.
 
The difference in a 440 and 360 is about 150 pounds. The 383 or 400 even less. So add aluminum heads and intake and water pump housing and water pump to the 383 or 400 and you're lighter than a 360.
 
And there's the rub- having to modify one to achieve the same weight as the other in stock form. Not a fair comparison.
Throw the same parts and money at both, and you will still be back to the original weight difference (or very close to it).
An aluminum-headed small block will still weigh less than a similarly equipped big block, providing even better weight distribution and inherently better handling.
BTW, I'm not dissing big blocks, I've had many. Just saying that if you use the same type parts on both engines, the SB will always be lighter.
True, but his question WAS comparing TO an all iron 360.
 
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