340,to stroke or not to stroke

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Here is what I'm building
Callies 3.79 crank
CompStar 2.100 x 6.125 rods
Diamond Custom Pistons 9.3 to 1
Joe Mondello Cryogenically Frozen Alecular bearings
Racer Brown flat Tappet Cam and lifters
Racer Brown Magnum Rocker Arms
Cometic Gaskets
Complete New Magnum/LA heads Stage 3
EV-8 5/16 stem stainless valves
Hardened Exhaust seats
Pro Comp 3 angle valve job
Springs
Retainer
Machined 10* locks
Surface heads
 
yep agree with Moper and I understand where you are coming from SGBARRACUDA. By the time all is said and done if you do a forged crank stroker with the better rods and a good set of heads nice intake, ignition etc. It will easily be in the $6000+ range. You will need an 8 blade water pump and a much better than stock radiator keep the larger engine cool too.

Then I would highly advise a good stout 727, or 4-gear with scatter sheid and a very nice clutch, a nice driveshaft with large u-joint support and a decent 8 3/4 rear with at least 3.55 posi or more depending on the cam etc.

If you really want it to be mostly just a street car then build it similar to a factory 340 spec with a litle more cam. This increase stroke needs more air to work correclty. If you do not get the proper head work or better heads and enough cam, exhaust flow, intake etc. then the increase size is just about a complete waste of $$ and it would be better off to have a stock slightly warmed up 340 or 360.

I was gonna go cast on the crank and use a set of factory re-worked rods etc. Thougt I could save some cash. Well then knowing myself and how I drive at times I decided that I better do what is really the right way and not cut any corners or build a better than stock 340 that maybe makes at most a real 350-400HP. I mean if I had a later body Dart say 68 or so I would of put a 440+ in it. I like a lot of power. But way to much work for me in a 64 early A body. O:)

So I ended up with this high dollar monster that should be in the 520-550 HP range and I want to drive it on the streets too and cruze to a local show and Sunday drives etc. I mean honest low to mid 500 hp. I had a freinds dad telling me last night his son's SB chevy on pump gas makes 850 HP on the steet. Yeah sure and I live on Mars on the weekend too. Yes anyway I already had a 727 in the Dart, and it has a $400+ convertor with bigger flex plate and bolt package, and the trans will run at least another $1200 in parts to build it the way it needs to be. I went with 3.91 gears in the existing 8 3/4 and am installing frame conenctors, and doing a complete front to back suspension upgrade and rebuild. This includes a redo with a tighter feel on the power steering box. Oh and dont forget you need to be able to STOP. So I converted the fronts to disc and I already had rear cooling finned 11" rear plymouth racing drums out rear. I also am upgrading the ignition system for the MSD and a nice stereo. I have seen so many wing nuts on Pinks and in reall life on the street without enough charging system for real capacitive discharge ignition and then they fail.

Lastly the hardest money I spent was about $1600 for the early A body TTI headers and complete 3" exhaust. No this is not a strip car, but being honest with myself as Moper mentioned I need to know that if I can put the pedal to the wood, smoke the tires a football feild lenght pull it up to 6400 rpms barking the tires 1-2 and 2-3 and it will stay toghter and not bend the uni body and will stop. I know there is other stuff I have put $$s into as well that I did not include in this post, but it is included in this project of mine. I have driven in the past speeds as fast as 165 mph on a circle track when I was young and a drove a 340 built to the house mid 8 sec econo rail back in the day. No my Dart wont be either of those. I just want a combo that makes goobs of torque and does not have to sping 7k + to get it. If you do all this and drive somewhat sane it should make awesome power and be very dependable and eat up probably every Mustang you see on the street.

I know I will have more than $12k when all is said and done. This does not include the paint, body work or the interior.

But hell people spend $25-30k on a dam toyota or Honda?
Just my thought and an overview of what I did.

PS dont build the monster with a cast crank, I wound not, they make to much power and while it may be OK, it is a ticking time bomb... Even a 340 in the good ol days used a forged crank.

Have fun with it it is gonna be sweet when your done... :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:
 
Well, I dont see a dollar figure, or much about the rest of the drvietrain. So with your experience, I'll assume you know what a powerful street engine needs, and providing that is no problem. As for a solid engine for a street and occasional race, I'd go like this:

Either 340 or 360 block, sonic tested, trying to limit oversize to .030. More than that in terms of bore is more $$ for pistons, assuming the block can accept it with minimum of .150" think main thrust thickness. For a rotating package. The cast cranks are very strong. They will run at 500+hp for a very, very long time. Pair them with a decent set of H beams and good pistons. I like the Eagles and Diamond pistons. With a hydraulic flat tappet andd performance machine work you should be spending around $3500 for the short block. For heads, a set of RPM 63cc heads, the RPM Magnum heads, or a set of the new casting iron Magnum type performance heads. In any case, you're looking at somewhere around $1500 for heads. I have one of the Crosswind type air gap intakes that have both patterns. It's $100+ cheaper, and will fit any option, and looks pretty good to me especially for the price. The complete engine with someone assembling it for you will run around $6300 using nothing but new parts. Depending on parts choices, I would expect an engine built like this to make peak torque under 4000 rpm, and peak power in the 450-500hp level between 5500-6000. More than enough for a serious street car, and able to run on any fuel at gas station you drive past. Also, if you can find a good running 5.9L Magnum core, you will need an electric fuel pump, but that can be made into a really nice 408 with Magnum heads and a hydraulic roller cam with the same power numers.
 
djwhog said:
yep agree with Moper and I understand where you are coming from SGBARRACUDA. By the time all is said and done if you do a forged crank stroker with the better rods and a good set of heads nice intake, ignition etc. It will easily be in the $6000+ range. You will need an 8 blade water pump and a much better than stock radiator keep the larger engine cool too.

Then I would highly advise a good stout 727, or 4-gear with scatter sheid and a very nice clutch, a nice driveshaft with large u-joint support and a decent 8 3/4 rear with at least 3.55 posi or more depending on the cam etc.

If you really want it to be mostly just a street car then build it similar to a factory 340 spec with a litle more cam. This increase stroke needs more air to work correclty. If you do not get the proper head work or better heads and enough cam, exhaust flow, intake etc. then the increase size is just about a complete waste of $$ and it would be better off to have a stock slightly warmed up 340 or 360.

I was gonna go cast on the crank and use a set of factory re-worked rods etc. Thougt I could save some cash. Well then knowing myself and how I drive at times I decided that I better do what is really the right way and not cut any corners or build a better than stock 340 that maybe makes at most a real 350-400HP. I mean if I had a later body Dart say 68 or so I would of put a 440+ in it. I like a lot of power. But way to much work for me in a 64 early A body. O:)

So I ended up with this high dollar monster that should be in the 520-550 HP range and I want to drive it on the streets too and cruze to a local show and Sunday drives etc. I mean honest low to mid 500 hp. I had a freinds dad telling me last night his son's SB chevy on pump gas makes 850 HP on the steet. Yeah sure and I live on Mars on the weekend too. Yes anyway I already had a 727 in the Dart, and it has a $400+ convertor with bigger flex plate and bolt package, and the trans will run at least another $1200 in parts to build it the way it needs to be. I went with 3.91 gears in the existing 8 3/4 and am installing frame conenctors, and doing a complete front to back suspension upgrade and rebuild. This includes a redo with a tighter feel on the power steering box. Oh and dont forget you need to be able to STOP. So I converted the fronts to disc and I already had rear cooling finned 11" rear plymouth racing drums out rear. I also am upgrading the ignition system for the MSD and a nice stereo. I have seen so many wing nuts on Pinks and in reall life on the street without enough charging system for real capacitive discharge ignition and then they fail.

Lastly the hardest money I spent was about $1600 for the early A body TTI headers and complete 3" exhaust. No this is not a strip car, but being honest with myself as Moper mentioned I need to know that if I can put the pedal to the wood, smoke the tires a football feild lenght pull it up to 6400 rpms barking the tires 1-2 and 2-3 and it will stay toghter and not bend the uni body and will stop. I know there is other stuff I have put $$s into as well that I did not include in this post, but it is included in this project of mine. I have driven in the past speeds as fast as 165 mph on a circle track when I was young and a drove a 340 built to the house mid 8 sec econo rail back in the day. No my Dart wont be either of those. I just want a combo that makes goobs of torque and does not have to sping 7k + to get it. If you do all this and drive somewhat sane it should make awesome power and be very dependable and eat up probably every Mustang you see on the street.

I know I will have more than $12k when all is said and done. This does not include the paint, body work or the interior.

But hell people spend $25-30k on a dam toyota or Honda?
Just my thought and an overview of what I did.

PS dont build the monster with a cast crank, I wound not, they make to much power and while it may be OK, it is a ticking time bomb... Even a 340 in the good ol days used a forged crank.

Have fun with it it is gonna be sweet when your done... :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:
You have some very good points in here, about the wanting to mash the pedal and leave football fields of rubber and such, sounds like me, nicely said :thumbup:
 
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