mopowers
Well-Known Member
Hmm... When I called Crower, they told me those were made for Chevrolet lifter (smaller OD) and wouldn't have the installed tension to work on a Mopar lifter. That's the only reason I shy'd away from those ones.
360 Block Lifter Ticking
- Thread starter Jim Kueneman
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Heck yeah. Those wire retainers are really an accident waitin to happen.
CudaJason
Well-Known Member
That may be. They don’t list what size they are. I saw the listing and thought “I can get that at the hardware store…”
Gator
Mopar or No Car
If he is lucky he will not have to pull the intake but will have to pull the rocker assembly. With a strong small telescopic magnet about 6" in length he can pull the lifter out from the open port beside the push rod area. I have done that and it is a whole lot easier than removing the intake.
Not with Edelbrock RPM heads unfortunately.
We cleaned many and thought we had it fixed. What a waist of time and gaskets.
I also did that but had to fish the lifter to one end of the head due to cast flashing. Pull the intake. get some solid lifters and install push rods and adjustable rockers. You'll never regret that decision. You'll thing you installed a new engine with the power increase.
Knowin Jim, he's already drivin down the road.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I clean em ALL. And rarely have problems after the fact.
Part are on the porch but we ended up taking a trip to the mountains so not till Wednesday at the earliest
Yall be careful and have fun!Part are on the porch but we ended up taking a trip to the mountains so not till Wednesday at the earliest
Rarely having problems is not no problems. We cleaned them and it wasn't long before one started ticking on start up randomly.
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JC71340
Well-Known Member
Boy are you RIGHT ON!!! I had the same situation a few years ago with a new Comp cam and hyd. lifter package on my 383, not only did two lifters start ticking badly after a few hundred miles, I pulled all of them and found ALL of them were laser FLAT on the bottom!!! They were about to ruin the cam, no convex surface to rotate the lifters, installed new solids (yes, on the hyd. cam), already had adjustable rockers. With some new light weight pushrods to match, I'm so incredibly happy now, I'll NEVER USE HYD. LIFTERS AGAIN!!!! IT runs awesome, and as you stated, I swear it has more power. (Comp recommended .012 lash though).
And, contrary to popular belief, they DON'T go out of adjustment. (How many years did /6have solids from the factory?)
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furrystump
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I would clean the rest of them…….I would not want to have another one start ticking after you got it back together. I also won’t run a hydr, once the solid settles in, I just check it at the beginning of the year.
Of course the new lifter looks identical but the inter bore is 0.005 different so I can’t swap the guts and keep the original wear surface for the cam. Oh well lots of assembly lube and another break in sequence
All right so it is back together and it sounds absolutely no different 
. My buddy came over today and we pulled the valve cover then ran it and it is clear it is the same valve/lifter making noise. My buddy had a good thought. What does a broken valve spring sound like? The noise is not really like a "ticking sound" as I would expect with a lifter, it is much deeper more like a mini rod knock (and no there is nothing making noise in the lower end) it is clear the noise is coming from the #7 intake valve train. Also you can NOT change the sound of the noise by pressing down of the rocker arm with a screwdriver or tool with it idling which does not any sense to me if it was the lifter (which is a brand new one that does not have the free play from bleed back like the old one did after shutting it off).
Jim
. My buddy came over today and we pulled the valve cover then ran it and it is clear it is the same valve/lifter making noise. My buddy had a good thought. What does a broken valve spring sound like? The noise is not really like a "ticking sound" as I would expect with a lifter, it is much deeper more like a mini rod knock (and no there is nothing making noise in the lower end) it is clear the noise is coming from the #7 intake valve train. Also you can NOT change the sound of the noise by pressing down of the rocker arm with a screwdriver or tool with it idling which does not any sense to me if it was the lifter (which is a brand new one that does not have the free play from bleed back like the old one did after shutting it off).Jim
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PRH
Well-Known Member
For something pretty painless to try, try swapping the rocker that’s making the noise with another one.
See if it follows the rocker or not.
While the rockers are off, put a straight edge across the tops of the valves.
See if the one in the noisy position is strangely high or low.
I’d take a good look at the valve tips too.
See if it follows the rocker or not.
While the rockers are off, put a straight edge across the tops of the valves.
See if the one in the noisy position is strangely high or low.
I’d take a good look at the valve tips too.
Valve seat fixing to fall out?All right so it is back together and it sounds absolutely no different
Jim
A thought.... Edelbrock heads.... a known issue?
We were going to swap the springs to the front cylinders as well if they are not broken.
I'm unsure about that, but it's about all I can think of. If it sounded good for a while and then started this then something is changing. That's about all I can think of.....except maybe a valve spring.
That's a quick and easy diagnostic trick.
Called Bruce Toth who built these heads for me. He has seen a seat drop out once in a blue, blue, blue moon... Said I should be able to see a difference in the height of that valve with the other intakes with a straight edge if that happened as the seat won't go completely back into the seat and hold the valve lower in the head.
The other thing he has seen is the pushrod punch through the rocker arm seat. Need to look at that close.
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