360 bore and pistons

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swifty

swifty

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I just heard back from machine shop and my 70 360 block checked out fine. The bore checked out standard but he recommended boring to clean up and get rid of any taper. I noticed that .030 over pistons are cheaper than .020. Am I better off going .020 over and spending more or going .030 and saving some cash?

I'm thinking of one of these two pistons:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-8kh116cp30/overview/make/dodge

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb107ktm-030/overview/make/dodge

I am putting this in a 72 Dart swinger, 727, 3.23 gears. I have some 72 340 heads I plan on having 2.02 valves put in. I have not decided on cam yet. It will strictly be a street car with factory air and ps, pb. I want something that drives nice, runs on pump gas, but has some get up and go. First engine I am putting together so any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
I'd use the SpeedPro pistons. The .020 over ones are about $270 at Jegs, same as the .030 over. The more cylinder wall the better.
 
There are better deals out there on them pistons/ring sets. I personally would go with the 116 vesion insted of the 405's. with the ones you showed it would be hard to get much more than 8.5-1 without block decking or head milling. The speedpro's are excelent pistons I have them in 2 motors right now one of them a dirt track car and they are holding up great.

OOOP's sorry I was just looking at the image not the # you have the correct ones.. I have use both KB's and speedpros and prefer the speedpros. No special ring gaps withe the speedpros.
 
I also prefer the speedpro to the keith Black. I bought an engine that had the Keith Black with it and while shooting (installing) the #5 piston, the a chunk of the skirt chipped off and we didn't bang or drop it. Maybe it had a previous crack started and finished when we were installing it. Speedpro has a thicker skirt.

I agree to find a set that has 9.0 - 9.5 compression for better efficiency than 8.5.

As far as boring it, I like to have as thick of a bore as I can for strength and future rebuilds just in case something happens. You can only bore a "normal" block up to .040". I recommend going with only take off enough metal to clean it up, spend the extra money on pistons if you have to. If you can get away with a stock hone, that would be the best. If not consider only .010" or .020" overbore.
 
I think I am going to go with the speed pro .020 over. It cost a little more but having more bore left makes me feel better. Is there any recommendations for cam? I am open to suggestions on cam and springs.
 
Run Both,both are good. Pay deep attention to the ring gaps ,on the K.B's. Saves a tear down later.
 
I have and have used the Speed Pro h116 pistons and really like them. Not real expensive and give a nice bump in compression over stock.
 
swifty said:
I think I am going to go with the speed pro .020 over. It cost a little more but having more bore left makes me feel better. Is there any recommendations for cam? I am open to suggestions on cam and springs.
Click to expand...

Could choice when my 360 was rebuilt the engine builder said lets 20 over than the next rebuild 30.Think about it if the bores get out of round after 30 than well .:toimonst:
 
swifty said:
I think I am going to go with the speed pro .020 over. It cost a little more but having more bore left makes me feel better. Is there any recommendations for cam? I am open to suggestions on cam and springs.
Click to expand...

For a cam, I would recommend between 260° and 285° duration and throw in a set of rhoades variable duration lifters. My choice would be in the 270° to 275° intake duration with the 3.23 gears.

The Rhaodes lifters work great. They bleed down at idle and fully pump up by 3500 RPM. At idle the lifters take out approximately 15° duration and .025 valve lift, then give the full lift and duration of the cam by 3500 RPM. Great for a street motor. I've used nothing but for over 20 years now and gotten over 225,000 miles on them in one build.

Don't use the competitors, the Rhoades lifters work better than all the others. I had an engine that had a choppy idle at 1100 RPM, then installed the Rhoades lifters and got it to idle (not as lumpy as "regular" lifters) at 800 RPM. They will allow you to run a little bit bigger cam without any low or mid range sacrifice on the street.
 
I never knew about the Rhoades lifters but they seem real nice from what I have read. I have been looking at Howards cams and they seem like a quality product. I am just wandering about how much lift I can have with stock rockers? I was looking at this cam 710931-12 but I will be the first to admit I do not know what I am looking for. I am also looking at the voodoo cam 10200703. But again have no real experience picking a cam. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
My friend's son in Detroit did alot of racing and really liked Lunati cams. He spoke highly of them. I don't have time to look it up right now, I have to go to a concert tonight. I can get back with you later, or Sunday.

Yes, Rhoades lifters work great. I researched them for three years before trying them and have used nothing but ever since for over 20 years now. I had one bad one once, called them up and described the issue, and they sent me a new one to replace it and didnt want the 'bad" one back. They trusted me on my word. They stand behind their product. When I built the Hemi for my dad, they had me buy sealed power lifters and send them in, and they put their groove in them and sent them back at a reasonable fee. They work great.
 
Good stuff,Roads lifters. Run 3 or 4 sets,act just like Kuda described.
 
Read up on the new Rhoads VMax lifters. They are T total badass. They adjust off the bottom using a feeler gauge similar to a solid cam.

If you get some, make sure you get the ones that have the oil slot all the way down the side and dump oil directly on the face of the cam lobes.

Here. Read about them. I know it says race, but they work great in anything. They even work on solid cams.

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/VFlatTappet.html
 
RustyRatRod said:
Read up on the new Rhoads VMax lifters. They are T total badass. They adjust off the bottom using a feeler gauge similar to a solid cam.

If you get some, make sure you get the ones that have the oil slot all the way down the side and dump oil directly on the face of the cam lobes.

Here. Read about them. I know it says race, but they work great in anything. They even work on solid cams.

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/VFlatTappet.html
Click to expand...

Just curious if the rhoads lifters with the oil slots would help with cam break in and flat tappet cam life?
 
I heard from the machine shop today and they had to go .030 on the cylinders, there was more wear than they thought. So I going with the speed pro 8KH116CP30. The machinist recommended ACL bearings, said he has had trouble with clevite tolerances. I am having some trouble finding them. I am not familiar with ACL, anyone have any recommedations for bearings?
 
If you think about it .010" total bore difference is only .005" per side. If your cylinder walls are that thin to make a diff you need a different block IMO, LOL

IMO you did good going with Speed pro pistons.

I've used KING bearings with great results
 
Clevite,King ,are both good. A good engine builder,will shift bearing shells,to get correct clearances.....
 
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