360 build

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72swgnr

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Well its been over a year and I'm finally getting started on building an engine for the '65
Initially I was going to build a stroker but since moneys been a little tighter than I like I'm going to build a stock stroke 360 until the rest of the car is finished then the stroker build will get underway. Its going to be a pretty snotty engine with the cam I'm running but it won't see any 100 mile at a time street driving so it should be fine. Specs are:

Stock 360 block sonic checked bored .030 over
Stock 587 heads with 2.02 intake valves and home ported
Stock crank magged and hopefully the machine shop will get it internally ballanced.
K1 H-beam rods good for future stroker build.
Mopar m1 single plane intake
Pistons are KB 190's compression will hopefully end up around 10.5-1 with a tight quench.

Now for the cam its a big hyd.

251/[email protected]
.564/.564 lift
110* lobe seperation

A turbo action 10" vert should stall between 3000-3500 and 4.10 or 4.56 gears.


Any guesses on what this combo. Will make? I've ran it on the computer but I'm a bit skeptical.

It will be seeing lots of dyno time (my old man bought a land-and-sea engine dyno)
 
home port? did yah flow em' if so, what they check at?

based on that, I'll guess anywhere from 295-460hp
and around 400lbs-ft torque
 
A-BOMB360 said:
home port? did yah flow em' if so, what they check at?

based on that, I'll guess anywhere from 295-460hp
and around 400lbs-ft torque
Click to expand...

I just ordered parts this past weekend. Everything still has to go to the machine shop (I sonic checked the block and magged the crank myself since that's what I do for a living) I'm hoping the heads will flow 240+ with the big valve conversion etc. Carb will be an 750-850 depending on what the dyno says. Its going to get headers as well. Depending on funds it may also get roller rockers.
 
the motor in the picture is a 360 11.5 to1 340 J heads 2.05 int. valves solid lift crane cam .540/.560 has ran 12.20's in a 74 dart sport with a 10 inch T.C.I. 391 gears
 
I think if it was me I'd drop the compression down and forget quench. Otherwise it's spending a ton of money to verify and machine everything to be dead on to keep the distance right. I think 10.5:1 with those heads wil be harder to do with those pistons. You can get 10.3 easy with zero deck flat tops, a 68cc chamber, and the thin MP head gaskets. Plus no worrys about stroke correction, indexing, milling domes, or equalizing the chamber depths to get some quench with your 10.5:1. Also, the cam is a decent size for a hydraulic, but not huge. Is it a fast rate deal that is supposed to build pressure? I am concerned that any higher than 10:1 is flirting with ping issues with those heads and the 3.58 stroke. I could probably tune out at 10.3. Might be a lot harder at 10.5:1.
 
moper said:
I think if it was me I'd drop the compression down and forget quench. Otherwise it's spending a ton of money to verify and machine everything to be dead on to keep the distance right. I think 10.5:1 with those heads wil be harder to do with those pistons. You can get 10.3 easy with zero deck flat tops, a 68cc chamber, and the thin MP head gaskets. Plus no worrys about stroke correction, indexing, milling domes, or equalizing the chamber depths to get some quench with your 10.5:1. Also, the cam is a decent size for a hydraulic, but not huge. Is it a fast rate deal that is supposed to build pressure? I am concerned that any higher than 10:1 is flirting with ping issues with those heads and the 3.58 stroke. I could probably tune out at 10.3. Might be a lot harder at 10.5:1.
Click to expand...

Its a comp cam # 20-229-4
The machine shop that I'm using has very reasonable prices and doing the quench deal I realize that it will likely have to go back there a few times to get things right but with a tight quench I was told it should help detenation issues. Its still going to be a lot cheaper than the stroker I'm eventually planning on building (360-1 top end kit and likely an aftermarket block with a k1 crank). As always I appreciate your input and knowledge.
 
The problem is, until you match the chamber depths and polish the roof until its flat, you cant get a tight quench. Tight for a 4.03 bore with stock pistosn is .030". The casting contours are close to that tall. I did one engine with open chambers looking for quench. I won't do another. If it was me, and seeing as 1. it's for a '65 and 2. you may upgrade the rockers anyway... I'd use a larger solid flat tappet and drop that static a little. Just my thoughts, as always, it's your dime/build.
 
moper said:
The problem is, until you match the chamber depths and polish the roof until its flat, you cant get a tight quench. Tight for a 4.03 bore with stock pistosn is .030". The casting contours are close to that tall. I did one engine with open chambers looking for quench. I won't do another. If it was me, and seeing as 1. it's for a '65 and 2. you may upgrade the rockers anyway... I'd use a larger solid flat tappet and drop that static a little. Just my thoughts, as always, it's your dime/build.
Click to expand...

I do have a solid that I may try on the dyno that D Porter spec'd out for a 416 stroker believe its 262/266 @ .050 and 570ish lift. I guess we will just have to see what happens.
 
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