360 build

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Checked out there feedback,and it was good.

I would have to price it against other companys,but if the price is right,and there using good parts,it looks like a pretty good way to go.

Also check there warranty.

I also checked out there 360 magnum long block.

I would find out what cam's they are installing,and ask if you can upgrade.
 
why not get a magnum version then maybe get a roller cam meaning no need for special oil and so on
 
Sounds good. I did the same thing with a pepboys short block which was nothing special. I put a .509 hydraulic purpleshaft in it and x heads and it made 297hp at the rear wheels on 87 octane! I say go for it since you couldnt build it yourself for that cheap!
 
Aerohead has a complete set of heads with the 2.02/1.60 valves for $499.00.
$599.00 for the more desired 915 or 587 casting's.
Have a great article with these heads.

www.aeroheads.com
 
I will plug my stock magnums for sale here @ $300. They are ready to run,including rocker gear.PM me if interested for more details.For $350 you get the complete mags,no longer produced porting templates and stock magnum valve covers.

Sorry,I have no shame.....
 
and i have a cam and pushrods to work with this setup
 
if i do buy the magnum heads from needsaresto, what else is needed to reach my 350hp goal.
i have a edelbrock torker intake and a holley 650 dp already
 
I bought a long 350 block from this company for my box truck and it was the least expensive and it is working great. hope this helps.
 
Probably a pretty decent deal, but how much is it going to cost you to ship this thing? Once you pay for the shipping it may not be as good of a deal.

If you are planning on making 350hp you probably want something more than a stock cam which is what they're putting in it. Other question which you might ask is what compression ratio and kind of pistons are they putting in it? What kind of bearings are they using?

I paid $50 for a complete pan to carb 360, running when pulled.
$500 in machine work for bake, blast, .030 bore and hone, decked, crank turned, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, bottom end assembled and checked for clearance.
thats $550 plus the cost of bearings, freeze plugs, pistons, rings, cam, and timing chain, so once you pay for shipping and replace the cam anyways, you may not come out ahead.
 
ashton1024 said:
if i do buy the magnum heads from needsaresto, what else is needed to reach my 350hp goal.
i have a edelbrock torker intake and a holley 650 dp already
Click to expand...

that intake won't fit magnum heads, though its a crappy intake anyway. Should be called "Makes no torker"
 
The aero head idea is good. I dont like the magnums with their chevy rocker gear. The Torker will work with the heads from aeroheads. I love my torker it boils the tires at any speed!
 
motors here! its bored .060 over..silvolite dish pistons and stock cam.
ive got $800 left in the budget for additional upgrades and heads. Im looking for around 9.5:1 cr and at least 300hp.
 
ashton1024 said:
motors here! its bored .060 over..silvolite dish pistons and stock cam.
ive got $800 left in the budget for additional upgrades and heads. Im looking for around 9.5:1 cr and at least 300hp.
Click to expand...

With the dish pistons its unlikely you will get 9.5 compression. I cc'd a 360 I have with dish pistons and the stock 68 cc chamber heads and got about 8 to 1.
You'd need a lot of milling on the heads.

How far in the hole are the pistons?
 
im willing to change pistons and cam. nothing to crazy, as i will be driving everyday it doesnt rain
 
Pistons are pressed on and you'llchange the balance of the assembly... Dont bother changing them. I've installed a bunch of mass rebuilder engines. Different makes, different sizes, different rebuilders. They all have a few things in common. They are not anywhere near the quality they profess to be. They use teh cheapest parts they cang et, the fastest, chespest machine work they can do, and the assemblers are never that qualified. If you want stock performance for just over the warranty (90 day, 4K miles??? Are you kidding me?) period, or it's something liek that work truck where it's just going to get worked hard, then they are worth the few pennies. At this point I would swap in a smallish cam because the static compression is close to 7.8:1 at max, and run it until it starts to smoke. That's usually what happens first when they get tired.
 
Only if you install it correctly. By that I mean aside from the dismounting of the stockers, plus re-installing the Speed Pros on the rods, you will need to have the assembly re-balanced as the new pistons are heavier than the stock ones are and I'm sure the assembly was not balanced by the rebuilder. (this is normal in stock non-performance builds as the parts are all factory replacement design so there isnt a "need" to) If it was me I would be leaning towards replacing the pistons with a performance flat top hypereutectic and then have the assembly internally balanced so you can run any convertor and any stock flex plate with it. Since you're changing the cam you're voiding the warranty anyway. Betweent eh pistons and the balancing you're probably looking at another $500 into the shortblock. But the you could run the Aerohead LA heads or something like them which I think would save you money in the "the big picture" over running a Magnum design.
 
the guy thats helping me assemble the engine is willing to balance it for me free. Hes concerned that the motor will overheat with it being bored .060 with a flat top piston such as the kb107. the car will be driven almost daily
 
It's got less of a chance with a flat top hyper (especially a Keith Black version) than anything else. And the top of the piston has little to do with cooling anyway. Thin walls are thins walls. you can put any piston you want in there, if they are too thin, it's going to overheat. This would be why a block gets tested prior to boring that large in a performance shop. At this point I'd say overheating is moot. Interestingly enough... read the fine print. I'll wager that the warranty does not cover overheating and it probably has a melt out somewhere on it. Factory Mopar remanufactured engines never went more than .040 over from what I've seen but the '89 360 block I'm working with now could safely take it (I sonic tested it). So dont be too worried. Most .060 over engines will never run hot as a result of the bore size. Some will, but that's why one pays to have it checked when you can.
 
that overheating hubub is from the chevrolet camp. mostly anything over .030 over on those chev smallblocks you'll have problems. the 400 is EPIC for that. nevermind just the steam ports in the head. but yah generally .060 on a 360 is no problem.
 
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