360 cam bearing question

-
68 Notch Back

68 Notch Back

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2011
Messages
49
Reaction score
0
Location
Florida
I just got my 360LA back from the machine shop where it was sonic tested and boared to 4.040, decked, cleaned, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. It was wrapped in black plastic when I picked it up so I didn't pay much attention to it. When I unwrapped it, I noticed that the Orange paint was still on the block.

Tell me if this sounds right. I paid $70 to clean the block (it wasn't greasy to start with). I assumed it would be hot tanked which would take paint and everything off.

Now about the cam bearings. I can see 3 oiling holes in 3 of the bearings but only one of the holes (the bottom one) is lined up pretty close. The other holes are either not linged up at all or only a small portion of the hole can be seen. Is this right?

Thanks
 
No every time I had a block boiled out there was very little of the paint left and as far as the cam bearings go, I have seen them slightly off which is ok but to barely line up is not take it back
 
Use a wire coat hanger to poke through the holes and look for the tip of the hanger through the oil holes at the other end.

Our rule of thumb for cam bearings is that they holes in the block and bearings cannot be overlapped more than 50%, but that was for production daily driver engines, I would be a little more strict for an engine that may see some high rpm's...


Usually hot tanking will take the paint, grease, and grime off.

Sounds like they did not do a good job...
 
Does the 360 cam bearings have 3 oil holes? I'm thinking maybe a generic cam bearing with extra holes in the bearing it's self but not really an oil hole.

I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before I go beating on the desk on Monday.
 
68 Notch Back said:
Does the 360 cam bearings have 3 oil holes? I'm thinking maybe a generic cam bearing with extra holes in the bearing it's self but not really an oil hole.

I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before I go beating on the desk on Monday.
Click to expand...


It depends on where they go. Some have more holes due to the oil feed passage to the head, that is not in all of the bearings...
 
Every block I ever had hot tanked, came back pretty much naked. And if not rinsed and blow-dried immediately would have a significant amount of flash rust on it.The flash rust was always on the outside. I assume they started the blowdry at the saddles and interior surfaces.That was part of my job at one time, and I can tell you they flash rust fast. It comes out of the tank hot and steaming. Then I would hit it with the hot pressure washer, and blow dry it as fast as possible. Meanwhile its like 140*F, and smoking steam.I was a lot younger then.Heh-heh.
 
Look at the oil passage holes on #2 and #4 cam bearings. #2 feeds oil to driver head, #4 feeds passenger head. Bottom holes and head passages holes need to line up. If they are close you can use a small file to open them up a little to match. Make sure you clean any debris out before engine assembly. You can see the oil passage cast in the lifter valley of the block.
 

Attachments

  • 66 dart head pictures 008.jpg
    58.1 KB · Views: 288
Not every hole lines up on every bearing all the time. It depends on what brand the bearings are.

It's not rocker science to look at it and figure out what holes go where. Find the oil holes on the deck surfaces. They should go slam through to the cam bore and through the cam bearings. Use a coat hanger as suggested to verify. If you cannot get the coat hanger into the cam bore through one of the oiling holes, there's a problem.

Flip the block upside down. Remove the main caps. Look to see which holes go into the cam bores from the main bores. You can see the oil passages from the outside of the webbing in the block the to see where they go. Use the coat hanger trick there too. Again, if you cannot get the coat hanger into the cam bores from the main bores, there's a problem.

Lastly, if you are unhappy with how clean it is, regardless of whether the cam bearings pass inspection, take it back!
 
What a great job guys....I went out and found the oil passages to the heads an did the coat hanger thing. It went thru ok so I guess they are ok.

I came from the GM world and thanks to this forum, I am learning a lot.

One of the bearings has a gouge in it so I will still need to return to the machine shop. I will see what they say about the "cleaning"
 
Here is what the cleaned block looks like after I got it back.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    48.9 KB · Views: 355
Did they paint it? If not, their cleaner surely isn't very good.
 
68 Notch Back said:
One of the bearings has a gouge in it so I will still need to return to the machine shop.
Click to expand...


You have to look at how bad the "gouge" is.

If it's not real deep and more cosmetic, then it should be ok. Try to run your finger nail across it (perpendicular to the flaw - if you can reach it). If you can catch your finger nail on it, then have them re-do it. If your finger nail can't catch it, you should be ok....


Keep the finger nail test in your tool box, as it's very handy and applies to most "quick inspections" for machining.... A good "rule of thumb" so to speak.... (pun intended)
 
I've had them come back with very minor amounts of paint left on it but nothing like that. Heck I could wash one down with a garden hose and make it look that good. What's really important is how clean the inside is but it makes one wonder when you see that much paint left on it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top