360 cam ???

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woody30

woody30

woody30
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I have a 360 short block with 9.5:1 JE forged pistons. Don't know what heads I'm going to use yet. I have a comp .242/.248 @ .050, .570/.576 lift cam but am figuring this is a bit much for a 360. What cam would you put in it?? I saw in Mopar Muscle mag they put a Thumper in an 8.8:1 compression 1.88" intake valved smog 360 and got 325hp and 370tq from it. Seems more than I would have thought. I've always heard Thumpers were parking lot cams and leave hp on the table. Thoughts??
 
I like the cam specs listed for use with something like 4.1-4.30 gears and a 27 inch tire. It will perform really well in and around the 3,000 - 6000 rpm range. I have had similar signal pattern cams @ 244 @ .050 with less lift that would run in the mid 12's.

You could run a 3.91 and a 26 inch tire as well.

The question here is what is the game plan or what you want from the engine/car set up.
Also part of this all is what heads you'll use and will you run headers or not?
 
Good words from Rumble fish. A more complete list,would help immensely. I myself, think that solid would be a neat grind in a hot street/mild strip combination.
 
I have 3:23 sure grip rear for it. Would love to use them but realize I may have to go to 3:91-4:10's unless I go with a smaller cam like the Thumper. I also have 245-60-15 and 275-60-15 tires I can use. Don't know if the 275's will fit in my 67 Cuda wheel wells without modification. Probably will go with 2.02 J heads as the cash flow doesn't allow Edelbrocks at this time. I have a 71 340 intake but may get an air gap instead.
 
The 3.23's and the 245/60/15 (26+ inches) will be a nice performer with the right cam. The 2.02 J's and the factory 340 intake can be strong performers for the street. I myself would use them all together and look at a cam under 230*'s @ .050 duration just under .500 lift.
This would require a decent stall converter but nothing to crazy.

Now, are the heads ported?
Using headers?
Hyd., solid cam in mind?

Oh, the Thumper cam is so named and designed to "THUMP" when at idle. Performance wise, I do not know.
 
Cool,information. (Thanks) 3:23's,and a 245-60-15,pocket ported J castings(1.88/1.60) sounds good. Thumpers are decent(I hear).I can only offer what I know .Been mid /low 13's ,with way smaller grinds. Considered your combo.Smoother idle ,Crower 31916,Comp 268XE. Roughly ,223 @ .050intake ,230@ .050 exhaust lobe.The quick ramp cams,REALLY WORK. My .02.
 
But a good post it is! I myself am not a big fan of the Thumper grinds via looking at the specs.
 
It will be a 4 speed set up. Also, I will have headers, or 340 exhaust manifolds (have the manifolds already). Don't have the heads yet and don't have unlimited funds so ported heads are probably not happening unless I find a deal on "good" used ones. If I don't use the solid cam I am open to anything. I want a good running street motor that sounds really good. Doesn't have to melt the tires, but I wouldn't oppose that. LOL.
 
Well, I since a cam recommendation is what you did ask for, I'll make a general recommendation for exhaust manifolds and headers and stock 1.88 heads and intake.

Exhaust manifold cam would be something like a duration @ .050 216/226/
Headers for exhaust, the cam would be something like a duration @ .050 226/230

Most performance cams are on a 110. Cams of these sizes generally have lifts in the mid 4 area. No matter the manufacturer of the cam, you'll be OK.
 
I have a similar 360 to put in my '64 Dart gasser I'm building. It's either 9:1 or 9.5:1, .050" overbore, 2.02 Jheads, AirGap intake, Holley 750, and Hooker fender well headers, backed by a 4spd.

I'm also on the fence about what cam to use. I'm planning on sticking a 4.10 gear set in the 8.25" rear, with a taller tire on the old 15x10 slots in the rear.

I'd like to run a street able cam, but something that performs well and sounds tuff!

Not trying to steal the thread, just same dilemma I'm in.
 
Rumble made the statement in one of the earlier posts-how tall a tire will you be running?
 
One thing about sounding tuff is the amount of over lap a cam has. More over lap the rougher the idle. But it also means a bigger cam.
Most after market cams list the cams on a 110 C-line. This in itself lends to that choppy is sound. It helps give "That beat" muscle cars are known for.

Being the car has 4.10's, you can cam it with a wide range of durations. No matter what the duration is, be sure you have enough converter for it.

Woody said he is running what equals a 26-26-1/4 tire. (Manufactures variance)
You could run Woody's cam he lists and it'll be fine. I have run a similar non split design for about 3 years without issue.

Street abilty is of your concern and like. A more street able cam would be 10*'s less while 10*'s more make it closer to a 3000+ rpm starting point in the power band. If you can live with a power band (operating at) 3500+'rpm go bigger.

If you want to have a power band from 2-6K, look at a [email protected] cam.
Which I think you like for a more after able combo with what you have and that taller tire.

Is there a ET your after? Or just cruising around?
 
i think you will need to figure out your real compression vs the number from the pistons before thinking to much about that cam,its a cam that i think wants alitle more compression than 9.5:1 and atleast 3.73:1 gears but prefereable 3.90 or 4.10.

here is how my stockstroke 340 about 10.5:1 compression sounds like idling with that cam 242/248 compsolidroller quite mild in my humble opinion
th_meckasute028.jpg
[/ame][/IMG]
 
1fast340

It's so hard to nail down a cam for someone when there term "Streetable" comes in since it's there opinion which might not match ours. Ain't it? I was looking at that cam you have for my 360 build myself. Coupled with a 4spd and 4.10 gears, an Edlebrock RPM head and intake w/a750 and Hooker Super Comps, it would make for a nice ride.

(Man I hate running out of money! LOL!)
 
rumblefish360 said:
1fast340

It's so hard to nail down a cam for someone when there term "Streetable" comes in since it's there opinion which might not match ours. Ain't it? I was looking at that cam you have for my 360 build myself. Coupled with a 4spd and 4.10 gears, an Edlebrock RPM head and intake w/a750 and Hooker Super Comps, it would make for a nice ride.

(Man I hate running out of money! LOL!)
Click to expand...

It sure is,thats why i thought my short clip of that cam idling could give alitle guidance as a hint to how it runs buts its dificult for sure!

it realy is quite a good cam,with a bunch of punch in the midrange while haveing a fairly nice manered idle with alitle attitude but it sure needs alitle compression to run right,i know of several people running this cam and its not eating valvesprings either like a bigger solidroller might do. i just think i figured out my view of a streetable cam,its one that wont eat valvesprings,lol

LOL yup running out of money sure is that problem we all run into all the time
 
How long have you been running that roller? And IF you can remember the spring pressures for it, is appreciate if you could post them up. Just courios.
 
rumblefish360 said:
How long have you been running that roller? And IF you can remember the spring pressures for it, is appreciate if you could post them up. Just courios.
Click to expand...

only two summers of dailydriving,beating on it and lots of cruise nights. very reliable in my mind,friends of mine have more milage on there springs and they dont have any problem with them fadeing either.

cant remember the springpreasures but i can check the camcard and or the box the springs came in when i get to my garage again there realy isnt alot of springpreasure needed with a cam this mild,they are almost in the solid flattapet range.

after a bunch of searching on comps webpage i found charts for the valvesprings,its the 914springs [ame]http://www.compcams.com/Base/pdf/ValveSpringChart.pdf[/ame]

so about 165lbs closed and 365 or so open,it realy is quite mild for a roller.
 
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